Question about spray booth

JC

Coos Cues
The last few months I've been exploring the pros and cons of finishing my cues with automotive clear coat. I am not a painter nor have ever used a paint booth. Have read every thread here I can find and read a lot on the internet too about spraying clear.

Looking at this on E bay https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Table-To...rentrq:42ea25ca16a0ab66e326ad1dffdc00cb|iid:1

So my question is if I were to buy this little booth would I need some kind of a larger room to put it in that's dust free otherwise wouldn't it just suck all the dust from whatever room it was in onto the work piece like a big air freshener?

Wouldn't just taking it outside be as or more effective to avoid the fumes and the dust for zero cost?

Maybe I'm missing something but that's what it seems like to me.

Thanks,

JC
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi John

Spraying auto finish is no joke. Very dangerous stuff. Take every precaution you can in using it. It can come back to haunt you medically. Besides the booth check out proper filtering like charcoal filters. Protect yourself and those around you. You still have to seal your cues, learn as much as you can about the different hardners for the finish and proper temperature that goes with it. Curing factors, shrinkage. It's a whole new world that you can't take lightly. If you can, talk to an auto body shop, if they're willing to talk, the info is priceless.
 

JC

Coos Cues
Hi John

Spraying auto finish is no joke. Very dangerous stuff. Take every precaution you can in using it. It can come back to haunt you medically. Besides the booth check out proper filtering like charcoal filters. Protect yourself and those around you. You still have to seal your cues, learn as much as you can about the different hardners for the finish and proper temperature that goes with it. Curing factors, shrinkage. It's a whole new world that you can't take lightly. If you can, talk to an auto body shop, if they're willing to talk, the info is priceless.

Thank you Michael,

What got me interested in this is that I became acquainted with a cane maker locally who paints at a body shop for the last 20 years. He came over to my shop to talk about wood and shared some of what he knows about painting, which is a lot. He is willing to help me get going so I'm looking seriously at the process to see if it could be something I want to get involved with. I understand the toxicity of this stuff which has kept me at bay thus far.


JC
 

Michael Webb

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Thank you Michael,

What got me interested in this is that I became acquainted with a cane maker locally who paints at a body shop for the last 20 years. He came over to my shop to talk about wood and shared some of what he knows about painting, which is a lot. He is willing to help me get going so I'm looking seriously at the process to see if it could be something I want to get involved with. I understand the toxicity of this stuff which has kept me at bay thus far.


JC


Having his help along with your awareness, gives you a good foundation to get started. Use pvc for your exaust, not stove pipe.
 

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
Booth outside if possible.
Sealed drying box inside.
 
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Kingpin

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I had been painting for about 30 years. Im 48 now. I have seen a lot of things come and go from Imrons to laquers to base coat clear coat, etc. When I was younger, I painted with no mask unless I was spraying something big. Its what all the cool guys did so I never new any better. Now, my first recommendation to you would be, get a good mask. Something with replaceable filters. Your health is number one. Two, because your only clearing, understand what different types of urethane clears give you. The more you spend, the better the product. Not alwaty but in most cases. Your goal should be finding the clear with the highest amount of solids. This gives you the thickest coverage with the least coats. Next learn activators. They arent as tough to understand. One is for below, lets say 70, the next is for 70-85degrees and the final is from 85 to 100 degrees. These arent correct numbers but find the one that your shop temp falls within and you should be good.
Quick bit of info on booths.
You need a clean environment (room) with a fan and filter that sucks the air out of the room. I wouldnt have my clearing station in front of the fan. Actually have it on the other side of the room. Keep anything that would kick up dust away from your work. Last things. Dont work outside, theres too much debris floating around and it always finds its way into your work. Also, its tough on the environment. If I can be of any help, give me a shout.
 
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CuesDirectly

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
As stated, the proper mask is a must but don't stop there.

Tyvek suits are not for your Friends wedding.

Any exposed skin can absorb clear coat.

Even your eyes can absorb airborne particles.

Fingertips can be deadly in ways many people don't know about. Surgical gloves are a requirement to a long life when dealing with sealers, clear coats, glues and epoxies.

If your fingertips become sealed, they can't sweat thru the pores, that allows the sweat to travel back up the arm and build up. That can damage internal organs, even the heart.
 
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