I have not made many cues, but use about a C unit of WEST every year, and anywhere from a single to a "few" gallons of Titebond extend & type 3 in other millwork projects.
So far i have used Titebond for full splice cues. In cabinet work it gives a finer glue line, fine as the joint you make. Whereas WEST wicks in to some extent, and makes joints look a little thicker than they are. In hardwoods this is not a major factor, but it can be a factor. For other assemblies i love WEST for the long assembly time. And for the fact that with tight, complex assemblies it acts like grease to slide the parts together. While Titebond is apt to grab and seize up if the joint is close, tight, and you wait to long to assemble it.
I have always argued on the wood sites that that test was deeply flawed. The epoxy had no filler and was not used the way an informed used would. But IME titebond often does provide a better joint on "difficult to glue" and very hard woods.
I use anwhere from -none- to a few pounds of hot hide glue for restoration work. Currently using it on re-attaching veneers on an old Brunswick Royal table. It is ideal for use where it was the original glue. I wouldn't use it on a modern cue, though, no matter what Rambow and Brunswick probably used to make quite a few great cues in the old days. I wonder if GB even had anything much better, though they had some PVA's and the weldwood products at least by his later years.
Love cyano-acrylics for joints, ferules, tips, butt caps, all the routine trim and fitting out of a cue. Mostly loctite shock resistant or gel, but also some of the thinner glues
This site is great for information - I've been appreciating that people (even big name cue builders) are willing to share actual experience and observations. Thanks!
smt
