Turning down shafts, router bit or milling bit

Kim Bye

Kim Bye

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I have lots of wood to turn down this summer, what gives the cleanest cut? I have regular two sided carbide brazed router bits, 3 and 6 wing carbide cutters and carbide end mill bits, I see all of the above being used, so I'm wondering is this just personal prefrence?
Or is there a a reason why a certain type of bit is best.
Right now I'm using two sided bits for rough cuts, since they are dirt cheap and the six wing cutter when I get close to final diameter.
What gives the smoothest finish?
 
M

Mase

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I use a 4 wing carbide tipped router bit. They are smaller than many I have seen and work extremely well. The one I use is 7/8" across and 1/4" thick. I get them from a company called Royce Carbide and the part number is LP93140. I think they were around $23 last time I bought them. When I do the final cut with them the wood feels like it has already been sanded. I believe this is a Canadian company but I know they ship around the world.
 
MVPCues

MVPCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Mase said:
I use a 4 wing carbide tipped router bit. They are smaller than many I have seen and work extremely well. The one I use is 7/8" across and 1/4" thick. I get them from a company called Royce Carbide and the part number is LP93140. I think they were around $23 last time I bought them. When I do the final cut with them the wood feels like it has already been sanded. I believe this is a Canadian company but I know they ship around the world.
Click to expand...

From my searches, it appears the part number is LR..., not LP. Do you know if they sell arbors for those cutters?
 
conetip

conetip

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Not being funny Kim, but what did give you the best finish with what you have tried so far?
For me it is the PCD cutter I got made a few years ago. It cost a lot of money but has been well worth it for me. Every ones set up is slightly different, so some experimentation is definitely required. For a finish , with my setup, sand paper just makes it worse. So sanding is not required until after the seal coat is applied. I do not cut any metal with my PCD cutter, and is used just for the finish passes.
Neil
 
JoeyInCali

JoeyInCali

Maker of Joey Bautista Cues
Silver Member
MVPCues said:
From my searches, it appears the part number is LR..., not LP. Do you know if they sell arbors for those cutters?
Click to expand...

http://www.allblades.ca/wp-content/uploads/Catalogues/Royce Router Bit Catalogue.pdf

Page 12.
Looks like the usual slot cutters but a lot smaller.
Same ID ( 5/16 ).
The 7/8 OD just does not suit my set-up.
Most slotters these days are 1 7/8 OD and they are just about right for my setup.
I like them a lot thinner than 1/4 too for shafts.

I get mine from these people.
http://www.magnate.net/SearchResults.asp?searching=Y&sort=1&cat=68&show=10&page=2
 
MVPCues

MVPCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
JoeyInCali said:
http://www.allblades.ca/wp-content/uploads/Catalogues/Royce Router Bit Catalogue.pdf

Page 12.
Looks like the usual slot cutters but a lot smaller.
Same ID ( 5/16 ).
The 7/8 OD just does not suit my set-up.
Most slotters these days are 1 7/8 OD and they are just about right for my setup.
I like them a lot thinner than 1/4 too for shafts.

I get mine from these people.
http://www.magnate.net/SearchResults.asp?searching=Y&sort=1&cat=68&show=10&page=2
Click to expand...

I have a stable of whiteside 1 7/8" cutters for the Techno. The smaller OD 4 wing sounded good for the laminate trimmer setup on the lathe for the rare occasion I use the lathe to turn something short.
 
J

john coloccia

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Whiteside really does make nice tools. I've been using their bits almost exclusively for years because they're consistently really well balanced and run very smoothly, especially their larger bits, and even run very smoothly in dinky little trim routers.

I'm curious. Are you guys climb cutting or conventional cutting? I think most are climb cutting to maybe get a little better finish, but I've been experimenting and I find that I actually ultimately get a better finish conventional cutting "downhill", i.e. cutting from larger to smaller taper. I seem to get a lot less chattering. Anyhow, I'm just curious what everyone else is doing.
 
scdiveteam

scdiveteam

Rick Geschrey
Silver Member
Six minute travel speed on 30" dowel for hogging, intermediate or final taper pass. Slow travel speed / less shock to the wood. Then dial in your lathe RPM until you get the best results. Start a 130 RPM and go up till you find Goldielocks. Set very light tail stock pressure.


JMO,

Rick
 
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MVPCues

MVPCues

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
john coloccia said:
Whiteside really does make nice tools. I've been using their bits almost exclusively for years because they're consistently really well balanced and run very smoothly, especially their larger bits, and even run very smoothly in dinky little trim routers.

I'm curious. Are you guys climb cutting or conventional cutting? I think most are climb cutting to maybe get a little better finish, but I've been experimenting and I find that I actually ultimately get a better finish conventional cutting "downhill", i.e. cutting from larger to smaller taper. I seem to get a lot less chattering. Anyhow, I'm just curious what everyone else is doing.
Click to expand...

In general, I think climb milling gives a better finish. But, climb milling also is a little more stressful on the router. The bearing noise is noticeably louder climb milling for some of my routers. It may vary by router. Some routers may cut smoother conventional, depending on the bearings.

When I turned on my lathe, I was setup to climb mill and never deviated. With my program and the Techno, I cut both directions when roughing and have considered conventional cutting more and climb only on last pass in an effort to prolong router life.

I do think for curly woods where chip out is sometimes a problem, climbing is a little better.
 
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