Aiming with the edge of the CB.

LAMas · Jun 12, 2012

My eyes happen to be 2.25 inches apart or the diameter of a CB, so if I stroke my cue under my chin between my eyes, each eye would be aligned with the outer edges of the CB looking at the OB.

I think that I can use this configuration to aim the edge of the CB at the double distance from the contact point that sends the OB to the pocket/target to the edge of the OB.

This would be without shifting or pivoting the cue.

????:smile:

genomachino · Jun 12, 2012

In a perfect world this would be perfect...........

LAMas said:
My eyes happen to be 2.25 inches apart or the diameter of a CB, so if I stroke my cue under my chin between my eyes, each eye would be aligned with the outer edges of the CB looking at the OB.

I think that I can use this configuration to aim the edge of the CB at the double distance from the contact point that sends the OB to the pocket/target to the edge of the OB.

This would be without shifting or pivoting the cue.

View attachment 229162

????:smile:

But the dominant eye will screw this theory up in a quick hurry.

Getting in the center will almost guarantee you don't have the best vision of the shot. If you really are in the center. :sorry:

Patrick Johnson · Jun 12, 2012

LAMas said:
My eyes happen to be 2.25 inches apart or the diameter of a CB, so if I stroke my cue under my chin between my eyes, each eye would be aligned with the outer edges of the CB looking at the OB.

I think that I can use this configuration to aim the edge of the CB at the double distance from the contact point that sends the OB to the pocket/target to the edge of the OB.

This would be without shifting or pivoting the cue.

View attachment 229162

????:smile:

You could also position your vision center in line with the CB's edge. I'm not sure what moving from one side of the CB to the other would do to your consistency, but I'm wary of your suggestion to aim with alternate eyes.

pj
chgo

LAMas · Jun 12, 2012

genomachino said:
But the dominant eye will screw this theory up in a quick hurry.

Getting in the center will almost guarantee you don't have the best vision of the shot. If you really are in the center. :sorry:

On paper, it is geometrically correct.

The aiming eye will be 1.125" (1/2 CB) from the center of my chin and the edge of the CB will also be 1.125" from it's center.

If my dominant eye gets in the way of the aiming thus, I can close the eye that is not aiming at the edge of the CB to the DD point.

I think/know that if I have a tilt of the head that that will affect the results.

I will try this out the next time I can scratch together some table time.:smile:

LAMas · Jun 12, 2012

Patrick Johnson said:
You could also position your vision center in line with the CB's edge. I'm not sure what moving from one side of the CB to the other would do to your consistency, but I'm wary of your suggestion to aim with alternate eyes.

pj
chgo

pj,
Yes, I concur and have tried this but if my cue shaft aimed at the center of the CB is not parallel to the line of aim from the edge of the CB to the DD point, I will miss. Perhaps parallax comes into play as well.

Thanks

LAMas · Jun 12, 2012

pj,

What I like about you sharing that one can aim the edge of the CB at the DD point on the OB is that all of the aiming is done at points on the OB and not on the cloth or rail behind the OB.
Thanks

Patrick Johnson · Jun 12, 2012

LAMas said:
pj,

What I like about you sharing that one can aim the edge of the CB at the DD point on the OB is that all of the aiming is done at points on the OB and not on the cloth or rail behind the OB.
Thanks

Yes, there are two reasons to use that technique for thinner-than-half-ball cuts:

1. Because (as you mentioned) with thinner-than-half-ball cuts you have to aim the center of the CB somewhere off to the side of the OB.

2. Because it's easier to accurately estimate smaller distances, and this technique ensures that the distance you're doubling will never be more than 1/4 ball.

Glad it helps. Wish I could take credit for it, but I've seen it described many times by others.

pj
chgo

Mikjary · Jun 12, 2012

A little something to think about with the influx of Diamond tables and faster cloth changing the game to a softer stroke...cling becomes a factor. Aim the edge of the cue ball to the contact point for slow, thinner cuts.

Best,
Mike

LAMas · Jun 12, 2012

Mikjary said:
A little something to think about with the influx of Diamond tables and faster cloth changing the game to a softer stroke...cling becomes a factor. Aim the edge of the cue ball to the contact point for slow, thinner cuts.

Best,
Mike

Hi Mike,

Now that the mods have restored calm to this thread.:smile:

I concur, for if one is attempting a 90 degree cut, the edge of the CB will be aimed at the edge of the OB for there will be nothing to double, but considering the vagaries of hitting the edge of the OB I think that using top or draw might help whereas outside english might cause the CB to swerve away from the edge of the OB.

Thanks for the tips. As always.:smile:

Be well.:smile:

LAMas · Jun 12, 2012

Patrick Johnson said:
Yes, there are two reasons to use that technique for thinner-than-half-ball cuts:

1. Because (as you mentioned) with thinner-than-half-ball cuts you have to aim the center of the CB somewhere off to the side of the OB.

2. Because it's easier to accurately estimate smaller distances, and this technique ensures that the distance you're doubling will never be more than 1/4 ball.

Glad it helps. Wish I could take credit for it, but I've seen it described many times by others.

pj
chgo

pj,
What we that appreciate geometry, physics and parsimony only rediscover what has always been there for us to discover but needs to be socialized in different ways to communicate to the different perceptions of this simple game of pool:smile:

Thanks again.:smile:

LAMas · Jun 12, 2012

For the 90 degree cut angle, there is nothing to double the distance (DD). Aim edge to edge.:smile:

Mikjary · Jun 13, 2012

LAMas said:
Hi Mike,

Now that the mods have restored calm to this thread.:smile:

I concur, for if one is attempting a 90 degree cut, the edge of the CB will be aimed at the edge of the OB for there will be nothing to double, but considering the vagaries of hitting the edge of the OB I think that using top or draw might help whereas outside english might cause the CB to swerve away from the edge of the OB.

Thanks for the tips. As always.:smile:

Be well.:smile:

LAMas,

On thin shots, I cut the paint off of the ball by aiming the side of my ferrule to the edge of the object ball. This technique works best when you are 4+ diamonds apart. It becomes necessary to aim a sixteenth or eighth off of the object ball as you get less than four diamonds apart.

Try it, you'll like it! :wink: Never lets you down once you get it.

Best,
Mike

PS The last tip I gave out was my banking system and it ended up on a well known DVD! :smile:

droveto · Jun 13, 2012

Eyeballs don't aim along parallel lines so this is not a geometrically correct analysis. If it works for you and gives you the confidence, then it works (for you), but it isn't consistent with laws of physics. The reflections of the object you're looking at travel along a path from your focal point to each of your eyes making a triangle and not two parallel paths.

genomachino · Jun 13, 2012

When your dominant eye is in the correct position you can see a parallel line

droveto said:
Eyeballs don't aim along parallel lines so this is not a geometrically correct analysis. If it works for you and gives you the confidence, then it works (for you), but it isn't consistent with laws of physics. The reflections of the object you're looking at travel along a path from your focal point to each of your eyes making a triangle and not two parallel paths.

I prove this day in and day out with my personal lessons and the Free Phone lessons.

Once you master keeping the dominant eye in the correct position it's natural to see this parallel line and envision the shot perfectly.

Nobody believes it though until they see it with their own eyes. I think to my self, If they only knew?

Why is that? I'll never know.

droveto · Jun 13, 2012

genomachino said:
I prove this day in and day out with my personal lessons and the Free Phone lessons.

Once you master keeping the dominant eye in the correct position it's natural to see this parallel line and envision the shot perfectly.

Nobody believes it though until they see it with their own eyes. I think to my self, If they only knew?

Why is that? I'll never know.

I definitely plan on calling you. Free information and help from a master is priceless.

8pack · Jun 13, 2012

genomachino said:
I prove this day in and day out with my personal lessons and the Free Phone lessons.

Once you master keeping the dominant eye in the correct position it's natural to see this parallel line and envision the shot perfectly.
Nobody believes it though until they see it with their own eyes. I think to my self, If they only knew?

Why is that? I'll never know.

So you are saying that if you put your head in the rite position you can see a parallel line .(contact point to ghostball position).

Mikjary · Jun 13, 2012

When your eyes are in the right place to see the thin cuts, look at where the side of the ferrule is lined up.

Best,
Mike

LAMas · Jun 13, 2012

Mikjary said:
LAMas,

On thin shots, I cut the paint off of the ball by aiming the side of my ferrule to the edge of the object ball. This technique works best when you are 4+ diamonds apart. It becomes necessary to aim a sixteenth or eighth off of the object ball as you get less than four diamonds apart.

Try it, you'll like it! :wink: Never lets you down once you get it.

Best,
Mike

PS The last tip I gave out was my banking system and it ended up on a well known DVD! :smile:

Mike,
I suppose that you are using the edge of the ferrule closest to the edge of the OB and not the other.:wink:

When the CB and OB are closer together, you aim a sixteeth or eight of the diameter of the ferrule or inches?

If you are saying to use the fraction of the ferrule, then this makes sense for the visuals would have paralleel lines converging at the vanishing point so at 4 diamonds, the edge of the ferrule works, but when the CB and OB are closer, there needs to be a separation of the edge of the ferrule to the edge of the OB because of the visual image at the focal plane.

Thanks.:smile:

AtLarge · Jun 13, 2012

Mikjary said:
LAMas,

On thin shots, I cut the paint off of the ball by aiming the side of my ferrule to the edge of the object ball. This technique works best when you are 4+ diamonds apart. It becomes necessary to aim a sixteenth or eighth off of the object ball as you get less than four diamonds apart. ...

I tried it, Mike -- it worked pretty nicely on the long shots! On shorter shots I had less success, maybe because I'm too used to aiming almost edge to edge on those, or didn't quickly determine exactly how much off the OB to align the edge of the ferrule. Experience teaches, eh?

Thanks.

genomachino · Jun 14, 2012

Hi there 8Pack and I should clarify............

8pack said:
So you are saying that if you put your head in the rite position you can see a parallel line .(contact point to ghostball position).

I need to clarify my statement I guess.

When you are in this Perfect position it is easy to see the parallel line, easy to see if the stoke is straight, easy to have the stance in the right position, easy to have the body in the right position. It kind of takes care of everything.

When you are in this Perfect position you can envision exactly how much of the cue ball will hit the object ball. When you see this you are right in line with the parallel lines we are talking about in this thread.

This is geometrically correct with the diagram but getting the eyes looking on these parallels and keeping them there is what ity is all about as far as aiming.

Once a person learns how to do this there is no telling them anything different.

we all get there from time to time when it seems like we can't miss a ball. It's just really nice to know how to get there all the time.

To make it any clearer you'ld have to call me for the Free Perfect Aim phone lesson.

Then you'll know and probably play at a little higher level immediately.

No kidding

Aiming with the edge of the CB.

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