Q slick
- Thread starter mark187
- Start date
No offence, but I wouldn't let sandpaper in the same room as any of my cues- If I need toothpicks there are cheaper options. I won't use abrasives, not even magic erasers. Just a personal preference, but for the price per gram of the shafts, I don't want that money in a pile of dust on the floor.
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Mark is a smart man. He knows better than that.
I like the qGlide. I haven't had any issues using it.
Hi. Thanks for the reply. Is it a laminated shaft? I have a couple of predator shafts, and have heard horror stories about the glue they use dissolving. I'm not sure I buy into that, but don't want to risk ruining the shaft through experimenting. I can't see it being an issue, but need a little bit of reassurance.
Thanks again, Mark
I really do not think 1000 grit sand paper really removes any wood from shaft, especially when it is used sand paper, I think it more or less burnishes it. I use 1000 grit occasionally, my usual maintenance is usually just wiping it off or using a little Pledge furniture polish or Chalk Off type cleaner on a micro fiber towel if it starts turning blue. I use the 1000 grit maybe 4-6 times a year, so far my shaft is not getting smaller, I even miced it with my digital caliper a couple weeks ago to make a collet for my lathe. Not sure what your guys shafts feel like, but I like mine smooth, most guys think I have a brand new shaft. Most other cues I try their shaft feels similar to a rough sawed 2"x 4", so I will keep doing what I do.
I've been using q-silk for at least 10 yrs..... dozens of shafts...never any issues.
The shaft needs to be "clean" before applying.
Damp cloth...then dry cloth...then take a folded up paper towel, add 4-6 drops,and burnish the shaft for 60 seconds while spinning in your hand....as fast as you can. get it a little warm.
I don't like using it on the lathe, I prefer to do it by hand, so as not to heat it up to much.
But, I don't like the q-clean, just a damp washcloth, and/or occasionally magic eraser for deep dirt.Paper towel works great for a light burnish.
I've used it on predator and OB shafts, and I have never had a problem.:thumbup:
I believe it's silicon based.
The shaft needs to be "clean" before applying.
Damp cloth...then dry cloth...then take a folded up paper towel, add 4-6 drops,and burnish the shaft for 60 seconds while spinning in your hand....as fast as you can. get it a little warm.
I don't like using it on the lathe, I prefer to do it by hand, so as not to heat it up to much.
But, I don't like the q-clean, just a damp washcloth, and/or occasionally magic eraser for deep dirt.Paper towel works great for a light burnish.
I've used it on predator and OB shafts, and I have never had a problem.:thumbup:
I believe it's silicon based.
I've used the Nick's Edge burnishing papers and they work great, and now I use a Q-Wiz which is similar and it works well also. I've never been a big fan of putting any substance on my shaft be it water or some other smoothing product or wax. It's been my experience that some of those things can cause it to get gunky and cause buildup. I just wash my hands before I play and periodically throughout the session and use the Q-wiz.
Mainly because you would realize that it is a repackaged Ladies Hair care product for the Frizzies.
I got a huge bottle of Pantene on sale for $9.
And my shafts have never smelled prettier.
Look for pretty much any Hair Product for the Frizzies.
If it has a chemical in it called Dimethicol, (SP), then it is what you are looking for.
Save you in the long run from paying 6 bucks for approx 30 drops of Slick.
Myself, I find that it doesn't have the desired lasting effect. Good for a quick polish at the hall. Doesn't work as well as Q Wax and some elbow grease.
Others may have different results.
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Mark, i do own predator and OB but rarely use them so they don't need the stuff. My playing shafts are solid maple and Q Slick works great on those. I drip a little on a towel, wipe down the shaft, then use a completely dry towel right after, then burnish with leather if needed.