Without a larger collar....wouldn't the phenolic plug just act like a wedge as far as leverage to break the diamond wood just like the joint pin did?
Dave
What was the little thin black ring made out of that allowed it to break in half like that?
I find this very interesting.
I had no experience with Dymondwood until I recently got a Bob Renis cue for my collection. I am actually very surprised at how nice it plays considering how different the construction and materials are from the norm. Many see these cues as kind of a weird curiosity, not serious, even hokey. I wanted one as a curio. I never thought it would be a serious cue. Finally found one cheap...it turns out to be a serious playing cue.
I have two questions.
Question 1: This Renis cue has an aluminum 3/8x10 pin and an aluminum insert in the shaft with what looks like a phenolic collar. Is that construction inadequate? I now, it may not be enough to go on as you don't really know what is in there that can't be seen. But any thoughts? I also note it is a smallish diameter joint though I have not measured it.
Question 2: I am seriously considering having a Dymondwood shaft made for one of my masse cues. It's a radial pin Jacoby BRW. Not the current one they make that is "ebonized" maple. Should I be sure that the construction includes the phenolic insert you are talking about here?
Hi Doc
The Aluminum insert is fine. The pin itself would depend.
Example
Old school 3/8x10 Aluminum. Not real atrong as a joint screw. Flat bottom 3/8x10 Aluminum is stronger. I don't know what you have. Hopefully not Aluminum going into Aluminum. If it binds one time it could fuse together.
On the diamond wood shaft, I would most definately ask for an insert of some kind. If you like that nice snug feeling that the radial is known for. Even maple is good. Just because something is laminated doesn't always mean it's stronger. The smallest crack can turn into a split.
Thanks-
I have to admit I am not 100% sure the insert is aluminum on the Renis. I'll check it with a magnet when I get a chance, but it is a silver metallic insert. It is an "old school" pin. Not real strong I know, but when the joint is screwed together and properly seated I wouldn't think it should not matter too much. I sure wouldn't want to drop it with the shaft partly screwed on, I am pretty sure the pin would be toast.
The cue plays nice. I am going to take it to tournament night soon. Just for kicks.
And thanks for the input on my masse shaft project thoughts. I see there is still Dymondwood around but it seems to be getting pricier. I should probably get it done soon.
In case anybody is interested this is the joint face/insert view on my Bob Renis cue. Cue is 10-15 years old according to original owner, so it is a later one.
The real reason for the failure was probably cue abuse (flexing the shaft on the table after the break shot). I think it's a choice in construction to try to engineer it to withstand that force or not. Of course, if you're going to choose a construction that doesn't, it probably ought to be for a good reason (aesthetics or performance). I am also not sure to what degree a phenolic insert would have worked. A collar would make more sense. But either way it's not just about material. I assume the dymondwood would be weakest to forces perpendicular to it's glue lines, and that seems to be true based on how it failed here. The more important thing would be to reinforce it with something that is stronger to force on that direction. At that doesn't necessarily mean the hardest material you can find. Those can be brittle or inelastic, a source of failure themselves or not really protecting the other material from force. I'd think a different hardwood insert with grain oriented in a different direction would be a better choice.