Not mine but somebody should have used a phenolic insert in this. Don't even make sense to my why inserts are not used.
Diamond wood and assumptions?
- Thread starter Michael Webb
- Start date
I don't have any diamond wood but I did have a piece of Laminated Birch. Expected what the cue is going to go thru, I cored it with 3/4 phenolic then cored that with maple and finished with a phenolic plug. Not bad.
I used epoxy not the elmers you see. Lol
I used epoxy not the elmers you see. Lol
Nice work Mike..........
It's hard, must be not brittle? Wrong!
Great work.
But, did you have to use school glue? :grin:
Good to see you still have some nice ole brown phens.
Great work.
But, did you have to use school glue? :grin:
Good to see you still have some nice ole brown phens.
Thank you. Mine is over kill but a good use for natural phenolic tube that finishes light tan. UGLY!
And secondly.. A phenolic plug could have prevented this from happening.
And secondly.. A phenolic plug could have prevented this from happening.
Good point. Type of glue with glue rings could be a factor. Another option could be a 1/2x13 insert.
Hi Chris.
Phenolic, and it didn't break. Which makes think, it broke up hight and pushed it off. There was plenty of epoxy on it. I don't know what kind. Some bonds better than others. Just my experience.
I find this very interesting.
I had no experience with Dymondwood until I recently got a Bob Renis cue for my collection. I am actually very surprised at how nice it plays considering how different the construction and materials are from the norm. Many see these cues as kind of a weird curiosity, not serious, even hokey. I wanted one as a curio. I never thought it would be a serious cue. Finally found one cheap...it turns out to be a serious playing cue.
I have two questions.
Question 1: This Renis cue has an aluminum 3/8x10 pin and an aluminum insert in the shaft with what looks like a phenolic collar. Is that construction inadequate? I know, it may not be enough to go on as you don't really know what is in there that can't be seen. But any thoughts? I also note it is a smallish diameter joint though I have not measured it.
Question 2: I am seriously considering having a Dymondwood shaft made for one of my masse cues. It's a radial pin Jacoby BRW. Not the current one they make that is "ebonized" maple. Should I be sure that the construction includes the phenolic insert you are talking about here?
.
I had no experience with Dymondwood until I recently got a Bob Renis cue for my collection. I am actually very surprised at how nice it plays considering how different the construction and materials are from the norm. Many see these cues as kind of a weird curiosity, not serious, even hokey. I wanted one as a curio. I never thought it would be a serious cue. Finally found one cheap...it turns out to be a serious playing cue.
I have two questions.
Question 1: This Renis cue has an aluminum 3/8x10 pin and an aluminum insert in the shaft with what looks like a phenolic collar. Is that construction inadequate? I know, it may not be enough to go on as you don't really know what is in there that can't be seen. But any thoughts? I also note it is a smallish diameter joint though I have not measured it.
Question 2: I am seriously considering having a Dymondwood shaft made for one of my masse cues. It's a radial pin Jacoby BRW. Not the current one they make that is "ebonized" maple. Should I be sure that the construction includes the phenolic insert you are talking about here?
.
Last edited:
Hi Doc
The Aluminum insert is fine. The pin itself would depend.
Example
Old school 3/8x10 Aluminum. Not real atrong as a joint screw. Flat bottom 3/8x10 Aluminum is stronger. I don't know what you have. Hopefully not Aluminum going into Aluminum. If it binds one time it could fuse together.
On the diamond wood shaft, I would most definately ask for an insert of some kind. If you like that nice snug feeling that the radial is known for. Even maple is good. Just because something is laminated doesn't always mean it's stronger. The smallest crack can turn into a split.
Thanks-
I have to admit I am not 100% sure the insert is aluminum on the Renis. I'll check it with a magnet when I get a chance, but it is a silver metallic insert. It is an "old school" pin. Not real strong I know, but when the joint is screwed together and properly seated I wouldn't think it should not matter too much. I sure wouldn't want to drop it with the shaft partly screwed on, I am pretty sure the pin would be toast.
The cue plays nice. I am going to take it to tournament night soon. Just for kicks.
And thanks for the input on my masse shaft project thoughts. I see there is still Dymondwood around but it seems to be getting pricier. I should probably get it done soon.
I haven't gotten one to make a shaft yet. But someone asked me to turn one down. Always surprises. Lmao
If you think the white is paint or pigment. You might be correct. The hole in it is .360. Pretty scary shit sometimes.
Nice. Inserts have been around for a long time. One of the companies use to offer brass inserts for a 3/8x10 for jump sections. They gave it up from lack of sales.
Sure...
And of course a cue maker can make whatever inserts he likes.
I was surprised in several ways when I got the cue. The insert was one of those surprises. I am glad I finally got one. Very interesting little adventure and a great example for my collection.
I have learned a lot I think by seeing broken cues in the cue maker forum. Forearms, A joints, and more.
I appreciate you showing this stuff and discussing it.
If nothing else it has made me more appreciative of what is inside the cue, perhaps what we can't see or isn't very apparent.
Thank you. :thumbup:
And of course a cue maker can make whatever inserts he likes.
I was surprised in several ways when I got the cue. The insert was one of those surprises. I am glad I finally got one. Very interesting little adventure and a great example for my collection.
I have learned a lot I think by seeing broken cues in the cue maker forum. Forearms, A joints, and more.
I appreciate you showing this stuff and discussing it.
If nothing else it has made me more appreciative of what is inside the cue, perhaps what we can't see or isn't very apparent.
Thank you. :thumbup:
The real reason for the failure was probably cue abuse (flexing the shaft on the table after the break shot). I think it's a choice in construction to try to engineer it to withstand that force or not. Of course, if you're going to choose a construction that doesn't, it probably ought to be for a good reason (aesthetics or performance). I am also not sure to what degree a phenolic insert would have worked. A collar would make more sense. But either way it's not just about material. I assume the dymondwood would be weakest to forces perpendicular to it's glue lines, and that seems to be true based on how it failed here. The more important thing would be to reinforce it with something that is stronger to force on that direction. At that doesn't necessarily mean the hardest material you can find. Those can be brittle or inelastic, a source of failure themselves or not really protecting the other material from force. I'd think a different hardwood insert with grain oriented in a different direction would be a better choice.
Thank you for your comments. It had a phenolic ring in place. For a choice of the insert. I'll choose phenolic over wood. Everytime.
I have another one. It has the rings also, no insert. Split at the jump connection. I'll take a picture and post it.