Personally I prefer a wood pin cue with a modified Euro taper. Uncored.
There is less change in the natural harmonics of the wooden components of the cue as the vibrations move through the different species of wood the cue is composed of.
A better blind test would be having a series cues who's wooden components were made of the same sections of each species of tree chosen.
This would limit the amount of variance in the harmonics between each cue.
If the cues are cored they would all have to be cored with section cut from the same tree.
Of course there could be another level of testing added.
Cored vs uncored.
Start with a 1 piece then move through the various different joint and pin styles.
The butts of the cues should not be spliced. They should all be hustler style.
The reason again being to limit the change in amount of harmonics in the cue.
Shaft tapers, furrels and tips should all remain the same form cue to cue.
There should be no collar on the shafts.
Where possible f the pin and joint style allow. The same shaft should be used each time from cue to cue.
Something to consider at any rate.
Some cue builder would be very busy. As all the cues should come from the same builder as well to limit differences created by build style.
There is less change in the natural harmonics of the wooden components of the cue as the vibrations move through the different species of wood the cue is composed of.
A better blind test would be having a series cues who's wooden components were made of the same sections of each species of tree chosen.
This would limit the amount of variance in the harmonics between each cue.
If the cues are cored they would all have to be cored with section cut from the same tree.
Of course there could be another level of testing added.
Cored vs uncored.
Start with a 1 piece then move through the various different joint and pin styles.
The butts of the cues should not be spliced. They should all be hustler style.
The reason again being to limit the change in amount of harmonics in the cue.
Shaft tapers, furrels and tips should all remain the same form cue to cue.
There should be no collar on the shafts.
Where possible f the pin and joint style allow. The same shaft should be used each time from cue to cue.
Something to consider at any rate.
Some cue builder would be very busy. As all the cues should come from the same builder as well to limit differences created by build style.
