just curious about how a half inch joint pin would beneficial? i seen a few in the past and i was just wondering if that would be too big of a pin? (meaning not enough material on an around standard size diameter shaft) common sense says you would have to have an insert and collars,no wood to wood sneakys correct?
1/2" pin?
- Thread starter bookmd
- Start date
I wouldn't want to make a cue with a .500 inch pin because the wall of wood surrounding the pin would be too thin to adequately support the pin; especially if joint collars were used. Basically there would be almost nothing to hold the joint together. Starting with an .840 inch diameter joint you would have only .125 inch of wood between the pin and the inside diameter of the collar. 1/8 of an inch of wood is not acceptable to me.
The main reason that they held up is that the part that goes into the wood is only 3/8" in the case of the pin and 7/16 for the insert. They were also aluminum so the mass was not nearly as great. The black trim ring fitted on the aluminum not the wood. You can watch some the snooker greats from Canada (Cliff Thorburn, Kirk Stevens) playing with snooker cues (thinner joint) that had that configuration back in the 80's.
With the Dufferin 8/9 ball cues, the entire male portion was all aluminum as was the receiving side. Dufferin has a large following here in Canada due to their price point for an entry level cue. You see a whole lot of ballbangers playing with these cues today, through my neck of the woods anyway.
You don't see it often because most cuemakers don't think it's a good idea. You don't see many Dufferins (outside of Canada) because most players don't think it's a good idea either.
1/2 inch wood pin
you might want to do a chuck starkey wood pin search, and see what players are saying about the 1/2 inch wood pin before you say NO. i started about 3-4 years ago messing around with wood pin and have found it works excellent. it is much easier to grab a $2.00 steel pin than spend the extra 2 hrs time building a wood pin using the methods i use, but to me it is worth the time. we all know hit, feel is subjective, but i really like the wood to wood to wood joint and will continue to build these cues. a few years back i had a builder tell me it could not be done, but after over a hundred cues, i choose to have a different opinion. ask any one that you can find that has hit a ball with one of my wood pin cues, and the response will be positive. i am not trying to change the world of cue building, but just want to give people that think outside the box an option. please someone tell me where to find where its written,
" you must use small steel pins when building a cue "
you might want to do a chuck starkey wood pin search, and see what players are saying about the 1/2 inch wood pin before you say NO. i started about 3-4 years ago messing around with wood pin and have found it works excellent. it is much easier to grab a $2.00 steel pin than spend the extra 2 hrs time building a wood pin using the methods i use, but to me it is worth the time. we all know hit, feel is subjective, but i really like the wood to wood to wood joint and will continue to build these cues. a few years back i had a builder tell me it could not be done, but after over a hundred cues, i choose to have a different opinion. ask any one that you can find that has hit a ball with one of my wood pin cues, and the response will be positive. i am not trying to change the world of cue building, but just want to give people that think outside the box an option. please someone tell me where to find where its written,
" you must use small steel pins when building a cue "
I built myself a carom cue with the 1/2-13 nylon joint screw several years ago and it plays fine. I will build the next one with phenolic or G-10 pin of the same size. I think a metal pin that size would take away from the hit, but for a natural house cue feel, the synthetic pin or wood pin would be the way to go. The wall thickness is okay also, but just barely enough.
I wish it only took me 2 hours to fabricate my joint parts and then install them. I think a wood joint may be easier.