10' Centennial pool table.

seb1899 said:
When I got my 10' Centennial snooker table

ry%3D400


I cleaned the skirts with The World's Easiest Metal Polish by Satin Gloss

http://www.satingloss.com/

The skirts have an anodized finish and some of my pocket skirts were discolored so I removed the anodized finish by using the 'smelly' old formula Oven Off.

I had the castings stripped and polished and this was a mistake as it creates a maintenance issue although it was a labor of love.:wink:

ry%3D400


I would limit the buffingpolishing to using only a good quality polish to clean the anodized finish

I purchased my table for $1,100. paid to have it dismantled and loaded as well as covering in Strachan 6811 when it was set up and all in I was at $2,600 after trailer rental and 1200 mile trip
Click to expand...


Is it possible to get them clear coated after polishing?
 
Got home from Statten Island around 1100pm. Unloaded everything except the slates and bolted up the three legs and main base. Will unload the slate tomorrow morning, get the base square/level, then will install the slate, level it, etc. Will post more pics tomorrow.
The slate is a little over an inch thick, roughly 1 1/8". As far as I can tell it looks like the table has been re-felted twice. The slate, rails and castings are in excellent shape. Some of the veneer is lifting at the corners on the legs. What the best way to " feed" the wood to prevent it from drying out?
Time for bed it's 300am!
 
very nice! puyat also produce their own versions in PI during the early 60's similar to that model...:)
 
Triplezero said:
Got home from Statten Island around 1100pm. Unloaded everything except the slates and bolted up the three legs and main base. Will unload the slate tomorrow morning, get the base square/level, then will install the slate, level it, etc. Will post more pics tomorrow.
The slate is a little over an inch thick, roughly 1 1/8". As far as I can tell it looks like the table has been re-felted twice. The slate, rails and castings are in excellent shape. Some of the veneer is lifting at the corners on the legs. What the best way to " feed" the wood to prevent it from drying out?
Time for bed it's 300am!
Click to expand...

Murphys oil soap. You can also glue the loose veneers and use big rubber bands to hold down tightly. Then clean the glue with a damp cloth before it dries. Then use johnsons paste wax and a orbital buffer
 
Triplezero said:
Got home from Statten Island around 1100pm. Unloaded everything except the slates and bolted up the three legs and main base. Will unload the slate tomorrow morning, get the base square/level, then will install the slate, level it, etc. Will post more pics tomorrow.
The slate is a little over an inch thick, roughly 1 1/8". As far as I can tell it looks like the table has been re-felted twice. The slate, rails and castings are in excellent shape. Some of the veneer is lifting at the corners on the legs. What the best way to " feed" the wood to prevent it from drying out?
Time for bed it's 300am!
Click to expand...

Being a little thicker than 1"...more like 1 1/16"ths, is an earmark for the Brunstone rock, instead of real slate, which isn't really a big deal, but a little more prone to cracking or breaking when trying to level out a swayback playing surface. You did good with this find buddy. The rail system on this table more than likely uses the fig 8 nut plate, which would for sure place it in the later 50's to to early 60's with the 6 piece rail system.

Glen
 
Thanks Glen, i'm at work now with a customer of mine. We're going to bring the slate in later in the day instead of trying to move the slate a couple times. And yes, the rails have the figure eight nut plates. I'll get more pics posted tonight!
 
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