Understood. Me personally... I favor working with the Uni Or 5/16... However after some doing and questions I might enjoy the 3/8.
1st timer
- Thread starter GoldCrown
- Start date
The uni loc can be tricky for the inexperienced.
5/16 or 3/8x10
Just a matter of preference.
I had good success with the Uni. thanks to you. They were for joint protectors but still had to be done correctly. Anyway my focus is the 3/8 for now. Some questions coming
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DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
I won't use uni loc. I like the 3/8 modified (I'd like it better if it wasn't modified) due to it being really available and the alignment barrel on the pin is great. They all hold a cue together.
DeeDeeCues
Well-known member
Looks like it'll work.
The tap should work. I may be wrong because i dont use 3/8x10/mod much but I think the only difference is the hole to tap size because the barrel on the mod threads is bigger than the regular thread depth on the o.g. threads, if that makes sense.
It usually has to go deeper if the tap has a lead on it.
Micro 100 sells a mini boring bar that will go up to 1 1/4" deep, 1/4" shank for the holder. Hole size starting at a .200. If you have a grinder shop available. They can grind so you can go 1 3/4" deep. Just remember the extra length ground can make it brittle.
The gap from going deeper. Is that a negative.
I am always skeptical on holes being deeper than they should be. Depending on the epoxy used, it can create a weak point.
In some Cue shops. Bottoming taps are gaining im popularity. But to get them usually means grinding the front off another tap.
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SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
I've been using that tap without any issues. I recently got a piloted version that works well but still has the gap. Since a flat bottom tap doesn't seem to be a thing, I've been thinking about getting another regular tap and having someone cut off most of the taper so I can go back at the end and tap the bottom properly.
For now, I've been experimenting with putting some cotton in the space so there is not an empty void.
If you want anything in that space, it should be epoxy. And good epoxy too so it soaks in and adds strength
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
OK so use a thinner epoxy just in the void, not the faster cure used on the pin?
Amen
I'm on the short list of makers who don't use quick epoxy for the joint screw.
I use west system
105/205 with some 404 powder.
Downside
It's a real pain in the ass to swap out the joint screws.
But so doesn't the stuff mcdermott uses.
Suggest good epoxy … brand, etc.
And… how much thread should be exposed from from the butt face…length, etc
From what I've seen, yes.
On the joint screw. Inadequate epoxy can allow the screw to move creating a chisel effect.
We've all seen it split Forearms.
Depends on your tolerance for the tap.
Lots of different epoxies. I am a student of west system epoxy with the use of the 404 powder. Some like the 403 powder as it looks like fibers but the 404 mixed better in my opinion. Without it, the epoxy is like water. Epoxy to thin can have it's drawbacks in wood absorption.
SSDiver2112
Escott Cues
I have 1.24" from the joint face. Also chamfer the bore so you can face it off without hitting the pin.