2022 World Cup cloth installation

realkingcobra said:
When you say 'opposite" on most of the tables you've seen, you're going to have to explain that, because for 40 years working on pool tables, all I've ever seen, and done, is put folds in the side pockets.
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What I meant by 'opposite' is exactly what you describe below:
realkingcobra said:
But, these fold are under rhe front of the rails, and though they look clean, they're the wrong way to finish the side pockets.
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I had never seen the folds on the front side of rails before this streamed match up. It caught my eye immediately as odd. Didn't appear to be a point of contention regarding the event so I thought I'd post the observation here to see if this was a standard practice that I simply hadn't been exposed to yet.

For a breif moment I was surprised it wasn't a topic for bitching on the main forum, but no one there really focuses on the physical aspects of equipment that actually matter.
 
The_JV said:
What I meant by 'opposite' is exactly what you describe below:

I had never seen the folds on the front side of rails before this streamed match up. It caught my eye immediately as odd. Didn't appear to be a point of contention regarding the event so I thought I'd post the observation here to see if this was a standard practice that I simply hadn't been exposed to yet.

For a breif moment I was surprised it wasn't a topic for bitching on the main forum, but no one there really focuses on the physical aspects of equipment that actually matter.
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Thats because they can't get past the color of the balls to notice anything else😅🤣🤣
 
TrxR said:
So will this cause any issues or is it just a lazier way of doing it?
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Yes, the angle of the cushions, even though the nose height is correct, is going to cause the rails to play slower than normal. Reason being, the body of the cushions is below the maximum energy center line of the cushions. To get the maximum play ability of the K55 cushions, the back of the cushions must be at a starting point of 1 11/16", which is why GC rails are milled to that thickness to begin with. The formula is A + B = C
A being the known sub rail thickness, B being the desired nose height, C being the unknown bevel to effect the outcome of A+B.
 
The most accurate way of matching the sub rail bevel to a table saw is not by using a protractor of any kind, but by using a magnetic title gage instead. Place the rail flat on the slate, bolt it down even if you can. Then set the title gage on the slate in front of the rail, 0 the tilt gage while its sitting there flat. Then tilt the gage against the subrail bevel, take note of the bevel reading. Then, on your table saw, make sure the blade is raised up most of the way, square the blade to 90 degrees, place the magnetic tilt gage against the saw blade, 0 it again. Then tilt the saw blade until the miter angle tilt gage reads the saw as it did on the sub rail. There's to many variables in your saw blade angle gage reading, versus trying to match the bevel from some other device.

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realkingcobra said:
The most accurate way of matching the sub rail bevel to a table saw is not by using a protractor of any kind, but by using a magnetic title gage instead. Place the rail flat on the slate, bolt it down even if you can. Then set the title gage on the slate in front of the rail, 0 the tilt gage while its sitting there flat. Then tilt the gage against the subrail bevel, take note of the bevel reading. Then, on your table saw, make sure the blade is raised up most of the way, square the blade to 90 degrees, place the magnetic tilt gage against the saw blade, 0 it again. Then tilt the saw blade until the miter angle tilt gage reads the saw as it did on the sub rail. There's to many variables in your saw blade angle gage reading, versus trying to match the bevel from some other device.

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Great info as usual but I was talking about the different fold at the side pocket on the cushions on the World cup tables? Will that fold affect anything?

Thanks
 
TrxR said:
Great info as usual but I was talking about the different fold at the side pocket on the cushions on the World cup tables? Will that fold affect anything?

Thanks
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Yes, it don't help control the direct hit of the balls against the facings, so though cute as it may be, it serves no purpose to fold the excess cloth under the front of the rail.
 
realkingcobra said:
I'd be willing to bet the grain of the cloth curves out away from the side pocket shelf, which is more than likely why balls don't like to roll straight down the rails past the side pockets, grain tracking, especially on Simonis cloth.
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IMO that is awful and very likely the culprit. of why the ball will not pass the side pocket correctly. I will stick to how I have been doing it my entire career. The only way I have done it different is on the Valleys I posted, no fold.

TFT
 
TrxR said:
Great info as usual but I was talking about the different fold at the side pocket on the cushions on the World cup tables? Will that fold affect anything?

Thanks
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I don't know unless I can look at it up close and personal. But its not something I'd do, or even offer.
 
boogieman said:
Yeah and forget about shooting past the side pocket. I've mentioned it before on here, but this is one of the reasons I learned to do my own table work with the help of the guys on here. This is the outfit that does cloth on most tables in town. o_O
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Good for you to learn and shame on those guys for folding that on the front like that, they must not play pool!

TFT
 
I did a 1967 Fischer 8ft pool table with no tuck side pockets and glen is right. When you pull the cloth on the side pockets it puts a little radius on the points. I did a good job and the radius is not that noticeable but it is there.
 
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