3 Shafts Comparison

Well, that's just the thing. with all LD shafts you don't need to compensate in certain shots, either the deflection is low enough for the width of the pockets to accept the ball or that the swerve compensate for it.
All LD shafts need to compensate for an extreme powerful shot, but how often do you use spin on such shots?
From my experience, with the 314-2 and the Revo 12.9mm, there is no need to compensate on any shot other then extreme powerful shots.
This makes these shafts easier to use as there is no need to guess how much to compensate.
With all LD shafts you don't need to compensate for certain shots.... I don't know about you but I don't just want to make the object ball but I want it to go in the part of the pocket I am aiming for, if you intend to play this game at a high level just making the object ball is not enough, you have to leave the cue ball in the proper place for the next shot and the shot after that, LD shafts are a tool to help you, they don't replace the work it takes to become a great player.
 
With all LD shafts you don't need to compensate for certain shots.... I don't know about you but I don't just want to make the object ball but I want it to go in the part of the pocket I am aiming for, if you intend to play this game at a high level just making the object ball is not enough, you have to leave the cue ball in the proper place for the next shot and the shot after that, LD shafts are a tool to help you, they don't replace the work it takes to become a great player.
The equipment I play on is very unforgiving. Pockets are 4.25 inches and the rails are on the jumpy side... can't really cheat the pocket, it's pretty much either you make the ball or you don't.
This means that when I aim parallel to the shot without compensating and I pocket the ball, then the CB traveled on the aimed path without deflecting. If I miss the shot then there was deflection.

If we go back to this shot:
Screenshot 2025-12-02 at 21.58.29.png

With the 314-2 shaft, aiming parallel to the line of the shot with bottom left spin, I make the ball (black line).
With the CF shafts, aiming parallel to the line of the shot with bottom left spin, I miss the ball and it hits the short rail (dotted yellow line), meaning the CB deflected to the right.
If this doesn't clearly demonstrate that the 314-2 shaft is lower deflection shaft then I don't what will...
I believe that the fact that the wood is more flexible than the CF also contribute to this difference in deflection. Yes they tell us that it's only the front end mass, but still, something has to deflect to the side, either the CB or the shaft. low end mass and flexibility will work better I guess.
 
The equipment I play on is very unforgiving. Pockets are 4.25 inches and the rails are on the jumpy side... can't really cheat the pocket, it's pretty much either you make the ball or you don't.
This means that when I aim parallel to the shot without compensating and I pocket the ball, then the CB traveled on the aimed path without deflecting. If I miss the shot then there was deflection.

If we go back to this shot:
View attachment 866952
With the 314-2 shaft, aiming parallel to the line of the shot with bottom left spin, I make the ball (black line).
With the CF shafts, aiming parallel to the line of the shot with bottom left spin, I miss the ball and it hits the short rail (dotted yellow line), meaning the CB deflected to the right.
If this doesn't clearly demonstrate that the 314-2 shaft is lower deflection shaft then I don't what will...
I believe that the fact that the wood is more flexible than the CF also contribute to this difference in deflection. Yes they tell us that it's only the front end mass, but still, something has to deflect to the side, either the CB or the shaft. low end mass and flexibility will work better I guess.
Have you done this test with a smaller cf like 11.8 or smaller? I'd bet that it will squirt less and yes it is end-mass that causes squirt. the shaft isn't so much getting bent as its getting shoved out of the way. the less mass the easier the 'shove'. a 314 is still 12.75 wood, the reason for the lower squirt is the lo-mass front-end not the shaft bending.
 
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Have you done this test with a smaller cf like 11.8 or smaller? I'd bet that it will squirt less and yes it is end-mass that causes squirt. the shaft isn't so much getting bent as its getting shoved out of the way. the less mass the easier the 'shove'. a 314 is still 12.75 wood, the reason for the lower squirt is the lo-mass front-end not the shaft bending.
I don’t have a smaller diameter shaft to test.
I can say that the Revo is wider at 12.9mm and cause less deflection than the Rhino or the Cynergy at 12.5mm.
Right now I’m at a pool hall with the SMO which I haven’t used in a while and it actually performs similar to the 314
 
I don’t have a smaller diameter shaft to test.
I can say that the Revo is wider at 12.9mm and cause less deflection than the Rhino or the Cynergy at 12.5mm.
Right now I’m at a pool hall with the SMO which I haven’t used in a while and it actually performs similar to the 314
shooting shots can be a bit misleading. if you already like one you are more likely to use it better. shoot soft/med/hard at the center of the end-rail. that's a better way to measure solely the squirt. I did this with a Revo,Cyn,Rhino myself and the diff was tiny. I set-up spin shots with all three with no issues. I'm not saying there are no differences but they are so small that you adjust within a couple shots. The lowest def. shaft i ever hit was a 1stGenZ-shaft. That thing was nearly zero squirt. I couldn't stand the taper so i never got one. I got a OBClassic+ which was a fantastic shaft. Wish they were still around.
 
shooting shots can be a bit misleading. if you already like one you are more likely to use it better. shoot soft/med/hard at the center of the end-rail. that's a better way to measure solely the squirt. I did this with a Revo,Cyn,Rhino myself and the diff was tiny. I set-up spin shots with all three with no issues. I'm not saying there are no differences but they are so small that you adjust within a couple shots. The lowest def. shaft i ever hit was a 1stGenZ-shaft. That thing was nearly zero squirt. I couldn't stand the taper so i never got one. I got a OBClassic+ which was a fantastic shaft. Wish they were still around.
those tiny differences are what make us miss shots...
That's why I prefer to test in real game situations.
Anyway, I think I'm done with it.
The Revo 12.9, the SMO 12.5 and the 314-2 are my shafts of choice to use, the rest go into the storage cases, maybe I'll keep the Cynergy as a back up shaft when I take a cue with a 3/8x10 joint.
 
Inside is your friend.

Many players get queasy if they have to let the dogs loose with a ton of inside.

Those are some of my favorite shots.

Too many people are hooked on outside English.
"Inside is your friend" is often quoted. I've never have taken the time to get comfortable with it on anything but short cuts where I need to shorten the rebound on the first rail. Well, also on corner shots where you need three rails back to the middle. For center and outside I aim, and when I'm comfortable, I pull the trigger. No biggie. On inside I actually get a feeling of discomfort and disconnect. It is an odd sensation. I guess I just need to hit 10,000 balls with inside to get over it.
 
"Inside is your friend" is often quoted. I've never have taken the time to get comfortable with it on anything but short cuts where I need to shorten the rebound on the first rail. Well, also on corner shots where you need three rails back to the middle. For center and outside I aim, and when I'm comfortable, I pull the trigger. No biggie. On inside I actually get a feeling of discomfort and disconnect. It is an odd sensation. I guess I just need to hit 10,000 balls with inside to get over it.
Don't tell me, let me guess... You're right handed, right eye dominant. Yes??
 
"Inside is your friend" is often quoted. I've never have taken the time to get comfortable with it on anything but short cuts where I need to shorten the rebound on the first rail. Well, also on corner shots where you need three rails back to the middle. For center and outside I aim, and when I'm comfortable, I pull the trigger. No biggie. On inside I actually get a feeling of discomfort and disconnect. It is an odd sensation. I guess I just need to hit 10,000 balls with inside to get over it.
Buddy Hall hated inside. He made no secret of that either. Of course he could do it if pressed but inside was for sure not his friend. He MUCH preferred either outside or center.
 
Buddy Hall hated inside. He made no secret of that either. Of course he could do it if pressed but inside was for sure not his friend. He MUCH preferred either outside or center.
Got to be able to use all types of English depending on what is required to get the best position
 
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"Inside is your friend" is often quoted. I've never have taken the time to get comfortable with it on anything but short cuts where I need to shorten the rebound on the first rail. Well, also on corner shots where you need three rails back to the middle. For center and outside I aim, and when I'm comfortable, I pull the trigger. No biggie. On inside I actually get a feeling of discomfort and disconnect. It is an odd sensation. I guess I just need to hit 10,000 balls with inside to get over it.
Inside is the same as outside when aiming to me, a feeling of discomfort is a mental thing, one of my mental hurdles is pulling my cue back when I draw the cueball, I'm working on it, Bob Jewett said in another post it's hard to unlearn a bad habit because under stress you will revert to the original way you learned it, I find that to be true but also helpful in breaking the bad habit, you can choose to work to overcome a bad habit or fear of Inside English or limit your pool game by limiting the shots you are able to perform.
 
Food for thought:

Unless you are shooting a perfectly dead center shot to hit dead center on an object ball, the INSIDE half of the cue ball ALWAYS hits the object ball no matter what spin you put on it.

If you are cutting left, the left side of the cue ball hits the right side of the object ball.

If you are cutting right, the right side of the cue ball hits the left side of the object ball.

In BOTH cases the inside of the cue ball touches the object ball.

The OUTSIDE half of the cue ball NEVER hits the object ball, unless you can't aim a lick.

Shouldn't it be easier to aim the half of the cue ball hitting the correct half of the object ball than aiming with the opposite side of the cue ball?

I aim point-to-point.
 
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The most satisfaction that I get playing pool these days is loading up the cue ball with tons of inside English on a six foot shot - making the ball and getting perfect shape - all with a plain maple shaft - no thought of deflection - just knowing the cue and where to aim - isn’t that what the real challenge of the game was meant to be?

Understandable squirt that is predictable, is a lot better than a small amounts of not so easy to understand squirt.

So yes it is for me.
 
Got to be able to use all types of English depending on what is required to get the best position
Go talk to REAL pool players and a lot will tell you same thing. Sure they can use inside but they run their patterns based on outside. BTW, your reply qualifies you for this weeks 'Captain Obvious Award'. Some deep stuff you came with. ;)
 
The most satisfaction that I get playing pool these days is loading up the cue ball with tons of inside English on a six foot shot - making the ball and getting perfect shape - all with a plain maple shaft - no thought of deflection - just knowing the cue and where to aim - isn’t that what the real challenge of the game was meant to be?
The real challenge is ensuring that when the last successful shot was struck YOU are the one who struck it.
 
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