36" or 40"?

S

seven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
what would be the better lathe to get

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=G4003
which is the 36" model.. or should I get the 40" model.
thanks for the advice.. I know..its better to get a cuemaking lathe. but I have the tools (milling machine) and other tool to make all the tooling I need. I just want to make sure I get a long enough lathe. yes.. I plan on making cues. thanks for the advise
 
36" or 40"

seven said:
what would be the better lathe to get

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=G4003
which is the 36" model.. or should I get the 40" model.
thanks for the advice.. I know..its better to get a cuemaking lathe. but I have the tools (milling machine) and other tool to make all the tooling I need. I just want to make sure I get a long enough lathe. yes.. I plan on making cues. thanks for the advise
Click to expand...

36" is big enough. The most important aspect about a cue lathe, is the hole in the headstock. Without a hole in the headstock, you can't do the drilling & tapping needed on the shaft or butt. The hole needs to be at least 1.300" in diameter. That's why a wood lathe won't work. You will also have to add a 2nd chuck to the backside of the headstock. to hold the wood perfectly horizontal. This can also be done with collets, on the back side of the headstock...JER
 
The 36" has 1.5" hole and the 40" has 1.4 hole. The 40" lathe will have over 36 inches of travel and some 36" models only have 29 to 30" of travel. Often the 36" machines have to have the tailstock hanging half off the end to turn 30" stock. I would go with the 40" myself, if I was going to use a metal lathe.
Chris
www.cuesmith.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
I have a 36" ENCO and wish I had a 40". I have my router mounted horizontally and this pushes the limit in turning 30" stock due to apron travel limit.
 
Ridge Runner said:
I have a 36" ENCO and wish I had a 40". I have my router mounted horizontally and this pushes the limit in turning 30" stock due to apron travel limit.
Click to expand...

I whole heartedly agree. I bought a new Enco 13 X 36 in 1992 and had always wished I had sprung for the 40". Travel is the key word here plus lathes are measured from center to center and the center is the end of the spindle not counting the chuck. I now also have a Jet 40" lathe and I mounted a J2 collet closer on it and this is now where all of my turning between centers takes place.

Dick
 
If your tapering with it, or running between centers then I aggree the 40 is the way to go, but both would be nice to have also:D with the 40 setup just for that kind of thing. I'm sure that's not an option at first though. a 36 would still be usefull lathe in a shop, but as mentioned the tail stock may be hanging off the end of the bedway with some operations.

Greg
 
You will kick yourself if you go with the 36. Unless you are very rigid in your cuemaking methods and routines, you will find that the extra length will come in handy a lot.
 
seven said:
what would be the better lathe to get

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=G4003
which is the 36" model.. or should I get the 40" model.
thanks for the advice.. I know..its better to get a cuemaking lathe. but I have the tools (milling machine) and other tool to make all the tooling I need. I just want to make sure I get a long enough lathe. yes.. I plan on making cues. thanks for the advise
Click to expand...

Some manufactures are not completely honest about the lathe specs. You need to know how they measure. Many measure with two centers, once you add a chuck you lose a few inches and with a live center in the tail stock you lose a couple more. A 36 can end up being more like a 31 or less. You should get the 40 inch regardless.
 
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