5/16 x 18 (brass) vs 3/8 x 10 pin (steel)

Muffy

Muffy

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Firstly I would like to say 'Hi' to the regulars :)

The title pretty much says it really.

I want to buy a Sneaky Pete.
I have settled on a Schmelke.

There are two main joints they use :
5/16 x 18 (brass) no collar
3/8 x 10 pin (steel) phenolic collar

As you can see, one has a phenolic collar?

I have trawled for net for weeks and simply can't find a straight forward answer.

I am fairly new to pool and am not in contact with people in the knowledge.

Any advice or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
 
The pin diameter is 5/16 of an inch vs. 3/8 of an inch.
And it's 18 threads per inch vs. 10 threads per inch.

The 3/8x10 is a little more common if you ever decide to get a new shaft although any cue maker can build a shaft to any specs you want. Since you're new to pool, you won't notice any other difference between the pins. In fact, I've been playing for awhile and I still can't tell the difference in feel.

Phenolic is a type of material usually black or brown. A collar is a ring on the joint. Looks like this:
Notice the black rings on the joint. When screwed together, it looks like a single thick black ring. It's strictly cosmetic.
IMG_0187.jpg


Thank you Trigger for the pic.
 
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IMO and the thinking of many cuebuilder is the larger pins, such as the 3/8 x 10, offer more surface area connecting the butt to the shaft. This should result in more feel! I've used every joint pin available, and I believe the radial pin is the best in terms of "feel".
 
Thank you Drew for the straight forward and prompt response.
And for clarifying that the phenolic collar strictly cosmetic.
I thought it was for some kind of protection between the wood joints.

As for feel, I guess it's gonna take a a year or two before I can tell :)

I have gone ahead and ordered my first all American cue (I'm British, living in Poland...)

Schmelke R1C Cocobolo Sneaky Pete
http://www.billiardwarehouse.com/cues/schmelke/schmelke_r1c.htm

Thanks again
 
Technically the phenolic is there to protect the joint, but in the end I think it is mostly cosmetic in this case unless you plan to break with the cue. Bigger pins will usually have a ring because there is less wood around them then when there is a smaller pin. It will be some time before you could tell the difference in how different joints play and there is great evidence to show that one can't really tell anyway (I feel like I can tell but that's another argument).

You say you want a sneaky. To me a sneaky has no ring....if it does then it is not a sneaky.

Personally I would like the bigger pin without the ring, but they don't offer that on their web site. Did you contact them and ask? They do custom work.

But that brings me to a suggestion. If all you want is a simple sneaky, have you contacted a local CM to see what he will charge to make one? A simple sneaky generally isn't expensive unless you go to a big name CM. Check it out. If you get a cue cut for you then you get exactly the joint you want.

Just a thought.
 
I have been told by more than one cuemaker that a bare wood/ wood cue is far more likely to split over time than one with non-wood parts.
 
Black-Balled said:
I have been told by more than one cuemaker that a bare wood/ wood cue is far more likely to split over time than one with non-wood parts.
Click to expand...

Yup. That's why they have rings.

But if it has rings IMHO it is not a sneaky. :wink:

If it's a player he wants and is not concerned with it being a sneaky, then by all means get the ring. It's more durable. Looks nice too.

I once knew a guy that started with a simple sneaky he had made. No joint rings, no butt cap.

I don't remember the exact order he had things done in but he basically had the cue built over time by different makers. He played the plain sneaky for a couple years, then he took it to a CM to have a piloted steel joint and phenolic rings done. Then a couple years later he had a butt cap put on with a nice decorative ring. Then a couple years later he had a wrap groove cut for linen. When I met him that was the work he had done. He was planning on more work including another shaft, fancier rings, and maybe some inlays or a butt sleeve with inlays. When I met him the cue shot great, I imagine he is still shooting with it. Who knows what it may have evolved into?
 
Firstly, I definitely won't be breaking with this cue.

I appreciate what you said Black-Balled, that a bare wood/ wood cue is far more likely to split over time, but by 'that time' I will have bought a gorgeous custom made, multi-wooden exotic cue... maybe :)

The reason I bought a Sneaky Pete was because of the non-assuming look, being fairly new to the sport.

And Chopdoc, I have no local CM as I live in Poland. A little short in interest here unfortunately :(
 
Muffy said:
Firstly, I definitely won't be breaking with this cue.

I appreciate what you said Black-Balled, that a bare wood/ wood cue is far more likely to split over time, but by 'that time' I will have bought a gorgeous custom made, multi-wooden exotic cue... maybe :)

The reason I bought a Sneaky Pete was because of the non-assuming look, being fairly new to the sport.

And Chopdoc, I have no local CM as I live in Poland. A little short in interest here unfortunately :(
Click to expand...

Welcome to our corner, Poland!

Don't be so sure about that beautiful custom being a better tool! Some of us prefer the plainer 'sneaky-pete' cues after years of playing. We might have the custom cues too, but they are 'closet queens'!!
 
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