8 Ball Analyze: Rack #4
- Thread starter mohrt
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My first question to posters is.......Why do you want to nudge the 1-10 cluster?
The ten goes in the side quite easily. ( From thd TV angle, looks like it will go even with the 12 there :grin
Nudging balls that are not needed to be nudged, only leads to possible problems in the game.
Agreed. Nudging the 1-10 is a fatal flaw of any pattern. Using the 11 as the key ball for the 8 is also a problem. Hangers never make good key balls, as position off a hanger is sketchy.
Draw off the 12 ball back to center.
Play the 11 hanger for one or two rail position on the 14 in either right side corner.
Then, it's all 13-9 shape for stop shot 10 in the bottom side.
15 ball in the top side and one rail position for 8 in lower left corner - or top left if you hit it too hard!
These posts are too damn awesome. Great idea and kudos to mohrt.
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My first question to posters is.......Why do you want to nudge the 1-10 cluster?
The ten goes in the side quite easily. ( From thd TV angle, looks like it will go even with the 12 there :grin
Nudging balls that are not needed to be nudged, only leads to possible problems in the game.
I play a lot of 14.1 so perhaps I'm a little more accustomed to nudging balls than most. From the current position, I'm 100% certain I can nudge that 10-ball 2 or 3 inches so that it goes in the corner. I like this plan because first, it provides an excellent keyball to the 8 and second, I'm absolutely positively certain to have a shot on the 9.
Once that 10 is nudged out, you can use the 9 to get on the 13 and have the 15 to get on the 14. From there, it should be pretty easy to go from the 11 to the 10 and the 8 should be a duck.
Regardless, there's only about 100 ways you can run this rack out. You'll see a lot of personal preference variations here. My concern is, the 8 has a little traffic and there's not a whole lot leading to it. It's not THAT difficult to address but since I know I can nudge that 10 exactly where I need it, why not?
I like this one except I go 11-14.
Jude and I used to do these type layouts on the Cue Table quite frequently. I slowed down and got away from posting them, but have always enjoyed them. It gives others oppurtunities to see how others react in specific situations.
I used to position balls based on a real occurrence. From league night or a tournament I was playing in.
Jude has a good eye and logically thinks the process through when exposing his patterns. You will learn a lot from studying his methods.
Thanks mohrt for bringing them back.
I agree bumping the 10 out slightly isn't too hard. But you'll likely leave the CB closer to bottom rail. At that position it's a thinner cut on the 9, making harder to hit position on the 13 - even using outside. I think you'd be more likely to hit the 3 or the 13, than split the narrow window between them to gain the 15" position for he 13.
In short, it's way easier to go from 13 to 9 then the other way around.
Why make the 10 a key ball when you already have the 15?
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Solids or stripes and why? It was a solid break, except no ball dropped
I like the stop shot on the 12, cut the 15, bump the 6, 13, 9...draw out a little for the 11, 14, 8
I don't E V E R bump my balls when they are already clear, and I have an easy setup shot to get to it. I say "don't fix it if it ain't broke"
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Sorry, accidental duplicate post
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If the cue ball goes by the 8 on the first shot, I like your way better. I didn't think it did. No matter, that's an ABC out the way you describe it.
Thanks for the kind words. Like I said before, there are 100 ways to run out this rack. Hell, you can play every shot completely wrong and still get out. I can even see myself standing over the table and talking myself out of nudging the 10-ball because, as others have stated, you can run them in place.consider. With several hanging balls, the shooter can afford to take any reasonable approach.
My concern has to do with the 8. The 15 as a keyball is pretty good but not great. In fact, my second favorite keyball would probably be the 14 since it's got a couple of available pockets and it's pretty easy to get a natural angle to get on the 8. If I went that route, I'd probably want to use the 15 to set-up for the 14. One thing is certain though, if I don't nudge the 10, I'll probably figure out a way to take care of it within the first couple of shots.
There isn't a better key ball for the 8 than the hanger 15, except maybe the 9. The 15 offers two corner pockets for the 8. The 9 offers two pockets also, but one is the side.
My preferred key balls allow for minimal cue ball movement to set up shape on the 8.
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My preferred key balls allow for minimal cue ball movement to set up shape on the 8.
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Agreed that 14 is a good keyball since it leaves a large gap for the run up to the 8 ball. I do not understand 15 as keyball since it's angled to the side so you can only make it from a small area. I'm really leery of your moving the 10 so that it becomes the keyball especially since the 2 ball cuts of the angle of approach from the 14. But I don't play much 14.1 either!
cueporn
Banned
Exactly, many ways to run these, but definately he best group.
Actually, 12 was the starter shot then the 9. But yeah, I was looking for connect the dot way out.
14 is on the head spot. Not the best place for a key ball after which you're going to have to work the cue ball to get on a narrow window for the 8.
The 15 does have a smallish window, but shouldn't be hard to land in if you take the 13-9-10-15 pattern.
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I didn't look at any of the responses yet, I would start with the 12 in the side then the 10, 9, 15(?)in the side, 13, 11, 14 top right corner, with the 8 in the bottom left corner. All the shots have natural paths to the next shot with little cb movement which I prefer.
Another would be to go 12, 10, 15, 13, 9 ,11 and the 14 last, again playing for the 8 in the bottom left corner. What I don't like about this pattern, is that even though it takes natural paths you could end up straight on the 11.
Another would be to go 12, 10, 15, 13, 9 ,11 and the 14 last, again playing for the 8 in the bottom left corner. What I don't like about this pattern, is that even though it takes natural paths you could end up straight on the 11.
Obviously you take solids. Jump the 2/5 playing the 4 into the lower left pocket and you're pretty much out.
The landing area for the 8 from the 14 is actually about a half table worth if you cut the 14 into the lower left corner pocket and take a two rail run-up approach to the 8.
I do agree that 3-9-10-15 is a nice tight connect the dot pattern. But the sequence of 14 to 13 in your earlier post would not be an easy shot with a very narrow landing area.
Here's what I would do: Obviously, I am taking the stripes because the runnout is natural. To many obstacles for the solids. The 15 is my key ball for the 8.
So, I start with the 12 as it is blocking the pocket for the 10. I draw back enough off the 12 to make the 9. I then shoot the 9 and get position to shoot the 10 in the side. I want an angle on the 10 so I can just roll it in and the cb goes up table clear of the 2 for the 11 in the corner. I play position off the 11 for the 14 in the opposite corner, trying to get as straight on it as possible. I want to make the 14 and hold the cb right there or be able to draw it down table a little. I then want to shoot the 13 in the corner, then the 15 in the side, then the 8 in the lower left corner. Didn't need to move any other balls for the run.
So, I start with the 12 as it is blocking the pocket for the 10. I draw back enough off the 12 to make the 9. I then shoot the 9 and get position to shoot the 10 in the side. I want an angle on the 10 so I can just roll it in and the cb goes up table clear of the 2 for the 11 in the corner. I play position off the 11 for the 14 in the opposite corner, trying to get as straight on it as possible. I want to make the 14 and hold the cb right there or be able to draw it down table a little. I then want to shoot the 13 in the corner, then the 15 in the side, then the 8 in the lower left corner. Didn't need to move any other balls for the run.