8-Ball How Would You Run Out
- Thread starter Colin Colenso
- Start date
The first thing I notice is the 12-13 cluster without an obviously easy solution. The 15 ball can be made first shot to draw into them but it's not the easiest shot and may not open the cluster with a good option as the middle pockets and lower right corner are pretty well blocked. Not to mention the 11 ball looks to be barely on into the top middle.
For spots I have an easy 4 ball. 1 and 2 are not on to their nearest pocket directly so need some thought, but the 3 is the main focus I think. It could be used as a last to 8-ball option but that could be problematic with the 11,12 and 13 where they are.
So my choice would be 4 to 3, to get rid of the 3. If I come up short, fearing hooking myself behind the 13, I can draw off the side rail also for the 5. If that position is not good, or the shot off the 5 is not good, I have options with the 2 and 6 balls.
If I get out of line, I'll probably try to get rid of the 1 earlier and use the 7 as my last to 8 option. If things go to plan, 1 is my penultimate ball. The 12,13 act as a bit of a stopper for the 1, but if I'm short I got a clear path up and back off the end rail and if I go long the 1 is on in the top left corner, so I'm likely to get a pretty good shot on it.
From the 6 to 7, if I get a bit straight I can go 2 rails with inside also to get on the 1. If I'm short I can just cut it 1 rail. Straight on it would be a big problem.
So here's the pattern that comes to my mind. Feel free to critique,
For spots I have an easy 4 ball. 1 and 2 are not on to their nearest pocket directly so need some thought, but the 3 is the main focus I think. It could be used as a last to 8-ball option but that could be problematic with the 11,12 and 13 where they are.
So my choice would be 4 to 3, to get rid of the 3. If I come up short, fearing hooking myself behind the 13, I can draw off the side rail also for the 5. If that position is not good, or the shot off the 5 is not good, I have options with the 2 and 6 balls.
If I get out of line, I'll probably try to get rid of the 1 earlier and use the 7 as my last to 8 option. If things go to plan, 1 is my penultimate ball. The 12,13 act as a bit of a stopper for the 1, but if I'm short I got a clear path up and back off the end rail and if I go long the 1 is on in the top left corner, so I'm likely to get a pretty good shot on it.
From the 6 to 7, if I get a bit straight I can go 2 rails with inside also to get on the 1. If I'm short I can just cut it 1 rail. Straight on it would be a big problem.
So here's the pattern that comes to my mind. Feel free to critique,
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4 in the side. Shoot with follow and a touch of inside. Need to take care of that 3 ball right away since it's in a tough position.
Try to get a slight angle on the 3. That would give a lot options and three backup balls (the 3 in the middle of the table) if I get funny on the 5. Ideally, I'd want to float above the 5, get an angle where I can play the cue ball off the bottom rail and pop up for the 1 ball in the corner, getting straight in enough so I can hold the angle for the 6 in the side with stop shot to draw down/follow with a touch of outside for the 7. Hope I get a good angle on the 7 that can basically lead me into the 12/13 cluster (I would stop right before it. Don't want to break it up if something goes wrong. But it's there to protect against an overrun) for the 2 in the side. Spin around 3 rails for the 8 in the corner or side.
There's obviously more ways to skin this cat, but I think the 4 in the side and the 3 in the corner are definitely the first two opening shots here.
Tough rack.
It seems like that is asking for a lot from your shot on the six to get to the seven. Since the one will not go in any of the bottom pockets it is dangerous to leave it as the key ball when trying to get to it from the seven.
This is a little bit of a tricky rack. The Solids are the right choice not only because of the cluster but also because of the lack of a good shot on a stripe to start with. The three is definitely a troubl ball so I would try to get it out of the way fast. I like shooting the 4,then 3, then 5 like you did only my position form the five would be to roll up and try to get straight in on the 1 in the corner. Then draw back a little for the 2 in the side, then 6 in the side going up table for the 7. Then depending on the angle I would play the 7 in the corner playing shape for the 8 in the bottom corner or perhaps the side but probably just the easy route to the corner.
Pulpy,
You were obviously typing that as I was posting my thoughts. Seems we're pretty much on the same page.
Obviously the order could change depending on the angles presented when we get into the 6,1,2 area. If this route were to be practiced a few times, the best way of attacking them may become more apparent.
Cheers,
Colin
I thought about a similar pattern involving the 1 as the last ball, per 8 ball strategy (you know, the last ball you shoot is the one that gives you the easiest position for 8). What gave me pause is the precise position required on the 2. Very easy to land yourself on the rail, which would prevent you from the stop shot, or you can hook yourself on the 11 if you try to pop off the bottom rail to shoot the 2 in the other corner (so that you can drift for the 6 in the side with the angle to get to the 7).
5 to the 1 has a nice open lane.
Yeah. The 4, 3, 5, are scripted here, but after that, you can play it a variety of ways, imo. Depending on the angles, the shots you're comfortable with, etc.
I think we have to assume the 2 doesn't pass the 6.
I agree Satori, a little risky and that's part of the exercise, to see potential traps and better ways.
I'd probably play to get closer to the 2 than the rail, making sure I have a good shot on the 6 ball, and if a good angle presents itself, I may try to take out the 1 asap. It may even go past the 8 ball into the bottom middle, though I'd be weary to plan just for that option.
FWIW and for a little humor, below is my guess of what the average beginner, who pots handily, may do with this line up.
I agree, but I'd presume the 1 would just get by the 8-ball, but you'd want to get on it almost dead straight to take it on, which might come into play when getting on the 2 ball or if wrong sided on the 2 to the 6.
I'm starting with the 4 in the side. Using a little right hand english and mainly draw. My next ball is the 7 into the upper corner. The 7 is all by itself, clear it out now and be done with that whole part of the table.
Off the 7, I am hitting the short rail, and coming back up table for the 3. Pretty much natural angle to get to the 3. The 3 is ball with few options to get onto, the 7 and 4 easily provide position on it, so take it now.
Follow off the 3 for the 5 in the bottom right corner. Want just a little angle on the 5. Either way angle will do. One way I need no rail, other way use the short rail. My next ball after the 5 is the 1, and I want to be as near to straight in to the upper left corner as possible.
Off the 1 I want a touch of draw. My next shot is the 2 in the side past the 6. Then follow the 2 with left and come back towards center table for the 6 in the same side, and then the 8 in the opposite side pocket.
Game over, never touched another ball.
Off the 7, I am hitting the short rail, and coming back up table for the 3. Pretty much natural angle to get to the 3. The 3 is ball with few options to get onto, the 7 and 4 easily provide position on it, so take it now.
Follow off the 3 for the 5 in the bottom right corner. Want just a little angle on the 5. Either way angle will do. One way I need no rail, other way use the short rail. My next ball after the 5 is the 1, and I want to be as near to straight in to the upper left corner as possible.
Off the 1 I want a touch of draw. My next shot is the 2 in the side past the 6. Then follow the 2 with left and come back towards center table for the 6 in the same side, and then the 8 in the opposite side pocket.
Game over, never touched another ball.
Hmm
Lets have a little fun and come up with some crazy stripes outs guys!
Lets have a little fun and come up with some crazy stripes outs guys!
This is my plan too, except I'd follow off the 4 to roll more naturally cross table for the 7 in the lower left corner - shape on the 3 is still natural from there. After the 3 and 5 it's pretty much a cake walk.
pj
chgo
Well, according to the diagram, it does pass the 6. Just use a straight edge, and you can easily tell it does.
If I had to take stripes, I would start with the 14. I would go two rails back towards the center of the table, wanting to stay on the upper diagram side of the line from the 10 straight in to the bottom left corner.
Then, I would shoot the 10 in the bottom left corner, and a little draw to come up table between the 1 and the 12.
Now, depending on just how far I went, I would shoot the 15 or the 9 next. My plan after one of those two balls is to then shoot the 13 into the bottom left corner. Draw back off it a little for the 11 in the side, leaving the 12 for the key ball to the bottom left corner where the 13 went. 8 in the side pocket.
Like most stated the obvious shot is the 4 or solids. But what I also saw is some flawless outs with absolute mastery of the table, i'm not sure if people are playing the out based on their ability or what they just like. But, since everyone has an opinion here is mine, it's safe and leaves options but still very close to the others.
This run totally depends on the 2 passing the 6
4 in the side to come back out about one diamond, 3 in the corner with slight stun for hopefully a shot in the corner on the 1, stun the 2 in the side for around second diamond, 5 in the corner as a nice floater for an angle on the 6 to get to the 7 "me i want to get below the 7 so i can head straight towards the long rail and not go two rails", one or two rails depending on position and shoot the 8 down in the corner.
if you don't stun enough then 2 in the side and use the 6 to get to the 5 once again floater on the 5 with several options on the 1 to get to the 7 and it's either follow or draw depending on what side of it you're on.
This to me feels like to the most effective out that would cover a lower level players ability, bangers need not apply.
I'll take this to the table tonight if i'm not working or next time i get to one and see how it hold up then get a weak player to try and run out.
This run totally depends on the 2 passing the 6
4 in the side to come back out about one diamond, 3 in the corner with slight stun for hopefully a shot in the corner on the 1, stun the 2 in the side for around second diamond, 5 in the corner as a nice floater for an angle on the 6 to get to the 7 "me i want to get below the 7 so i can head straight towards the long rail and not go two rails", one or two rails depending on position and shoot the 8 down in the corner.
if you don't stun enough then 2 in the side and use the 6 to get to the 5 once again floater on the 5 with several options on the 1 to get to the 7 and it's either follow or draw depending on what side of it you're on.
This to me feels like to the most effective out that would cover a lower level players ability, bangers need not apply.
I'll take this to the table tonight if i'm not working or next time i get to one and see how it hold up then get a weak player to try and run out.
Either group is pretty easy for me.
Solids, 4 in the side playing shape on 3, either blow shape on the 3 then miss the 1-6 combo or get shape on 3 then miss 3, go and sit down-watch opponent run out stripes.
Or stripes, 15 in lower right corner with shape on 13, pocket 13 then accidentally drop the 8 in side going for position on 10 in corner, go sit down and watch opponent rack. Either group ends with the same results for me, at least I am consistent.
Solids, 4 in the side playing shape on 3, either blow shape on the 3 then miss the 1-6 combo or get shape on 3 then miss 3, go and sit down-watch opponent run out stripes.
Or stripes, 15 in lower right corner with shape on 13, pocket 13 then accidentally drop the 8 in side going for position on 10 in corner, go sit down and watch opponent rack. Either group ends with the same results for me, at least I am consistent.
this right here is some funny ish. At first i was like "1-6 combo? i want to gamble with this guy" but now I'm lolling like crazy. flawless execution sir
"lol 8 in the side"
Good idea! After all, this is all about exercising the mind to think through pattern options.
For mine, slow roll or stun through 15 to be almost straight on the 11, which appears to have enough room.
I'd draw back to get rid of the 13 next. If a little short I can play from the 13 onto the 3, perhaps getting on the 12 in the far corner. If I over draw I cut the 9 and try to bump the 12-13 apart.
If all is fine to the 13, I play for the Z shot off the 9 to the 10 ball. A little back up with the 14 here is handy but good shape on the 10 will make the out a lot easier.
FWIW: I'd go 15 to 13 if I could, but it's likely a tricky shot to judge to get on it well. A nip hold needs to hit the extreme edge of the pocket and a punch off the side rail will vary a lot depending on accuracy into the corner pocket. I would still consider drawing into the 13, but would make for a messy diagram.
Also, doubling the 9 2 rails with inside for shape on the 13 is a good option if needed, but I'd prefer to deal with the 12-13 as early as possible if it is realistic to do so. I'd also note that the 9 can be a good penultimate ball once the others have been cleared, so if a pattern emerges that doesn't need the Z shot, I'd leave it there.
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