A idea for coring

[RBC]

When I built my Gingery lathe he suggests a similar method, except that the tailstock is clamped to the carriage so it "pulls" the tailstock along when fed. This would save the time to re-arrange the lathe.

Dave

I used to do the same thing! I just used a bar clamp.

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com

 

[RBC]

Just repeating my self and reposting what I did earlier:

The pictured ones are the ones I'm going for. We discussed these earlier and
the inserts in the front is interchangeable and should cut wood like butter.
There is many different cutting angles on the inserts - one typical Alu like.
The insert range is hugh and starts for the 17-24mm holder at 0.6890", 0.7008,
0.7087" and goes on and on.

So you could use one drill/holder and many inserts to do what we're doing and no
need for stacking up on the different gun drills. The inserts should last a life time
and when they're done I would throw them away and buy some new.

Just my way of doing it. Could post a update when I have received it and
tested it.

Kent

Kent,

I don't know if that is going to do what you want. I am not sure how well it will follow a hole. The main thing about a gun drill is the bit is designed to follow an existing hole. Many will bore that hole with various means while others will use a drill guide. I use a guide, which starts the hole with the gun drill, and then it keeps itself in line.

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com

 

[Dave38]

I have a .680 and a .750. The .680 is about 20" long, and the .750 is about 15". Bothe are toolholder held. It's really nice to just engage the power feed and watch it go....The .680 is brandnew from sterling, all I had to do was screw in the air fitting in the end. It has the wood boring tip, the .750 doesn't and needs a pilot hole and also a hole all the way thru already to work well, but when I finally get the time to do the coring that is stacking up, I'll be using the .680 to go all the way through, and the .750 to do about 3/4 of the way to get a step effect. I do have to do a pilot hole, but the shape of the .680 drill is awesome at going thru solid wood, even ebony. I have set it up and then measured the setup and wrote it down so that redoing the setup takes less time (in a perfect world):grin:.
Kent, does your insert drill have an air tube to blow the chips out? It's not visible in the drawing. The one advantage to this type that I see is it would be nice to just change the insert rather than send the drill out for sharpening, or you could even change it for different types of wood.
Dave

 

[Newton]

Have been working all day - first in our new house - then straight in to the
shop to check this coring drill out...

Now, I had to clean it up, install the insert etc and I simply just had to do a
test run. I did however not have a drill bit which could make me the same
angle in the pilot hole so the first experience was scatter. So I would need to
do some more testing making a decent pilot hole to get this tested.
I have a drill bit heading my way and the deal is that if the whole thing is not
working - I'm able to hand it back and money returned.

The first test was done on African Blackwood.

Some pics for those interested. Cooling attachment in the back is just a hole
so in case this works I need to install a plug for my air hose.

 

[Newton]

Last pics

Holder, checking alinement along the bed and centering.

K