A week after taking lessons from a pbia master im worse?

How do you know, you are still doing what that instructor showed? Without being able to have a tuneup from the same instructor, it is hard to believe in the process. That's providing he did the right changes in the first place.
 
I was I think. But they moved me over more to the right. Cue centered on my chin I'm left handed.
Which is your dominate eye? If you don't know, hold your hands together arms length in front of you and for a triangle with your thumbs and index fingers. Look through the triangle and, with both eyes open, center an object in the triangle. Now close one eye, then he other. When the object remains centered the eye that is open is dominate. You can shoot right handed with a left dominate eye and vice versa, but it takes practice. Are you cocking your head to one side or the other? Video yourself and observe.
 
12 Hours of instructions in just two days sounds pretty intense. You don't have to utilize all the information you learned at once. Save some for later. If I were you, I'd contact the master instructor and ask that person to help you prioritize your issues so that you can tackle them one at a time. You need to hang on to a few things in your comfort zone while you make changes to other things, or you will feel like you lost your game completely.

FWIW, I'm a PBIA master instructor too, so I understand what you're going through. I know it's all integrated, and it's hard to separate out the different moving parts, but your instructor will know which parts have priority for you so that you can move forward without feeling overwhelmed.
They gave me a schedule for each day I practice. Alot of mechanics stuff everyday with shot make and position drills filling in after the mechanic drills. Every day is different fallow day draw shot day but all days have mechanic drills. I'm fine with being bad for a few months just want to make sure I'm on the right track and something isn't off.
 
They gave me a schedule for each day I practice. Alot of mechanics stuff everyday with shot make and position drills filling in after the mechanic drills. Every day is different fallow day draw shot day but all days have mechanic drills. I'm fine with being bad for a few months just want to make sure I'm on the right track and something isn't off.
We can't advise as to whether or not you are on the right track since we cannot see your problems or your routine. You can much more clearly see what you are doing by videoing yourself and reviewing your stance, stroke and alignment via video. You will also see your head position and whether or not you are staying down on the shot.
 
See this all the time in golf instruction. Really important not to try too many new things at once. Get a lesson then work on that one idea a while before getting another. You can only absorb/handle a certain amt of new info per lesson.
 
None of that ... im not paying 25$ for chalk especially since master works fine for me
"Works fine" is very subjective. When I started playing, just having chalk was a blessing. I remember hoarding little broken pieces of Master chalk, there was no "other". Now we have choices to compare. I'm trying Predator even though I have a gross of Master. It seems to go on smoother and not have that "scritching" sound when applying. I think it is softer but it doesn't seem to vanish at a much faster rate than Master. I like it but the jury is still out.

If I found a chalk that I thought performed well above Master I wouldn't balk at price. Compared to what I have spent on tables, cues, balls and cases it's a pittance.
 
"Works fine" is very subjective. When I started playing, just having chalk was a blessing. I remember hoarding little broken pieces of Master chalk, there was no "other". Now we have choices to compare. I'm trying Predator even though I have a gross of Master. It seems to go on smoother and not have that "scritching" sound when applying. I think it is softer but it doesn't seem to vanish at a much faster rate than Master. I like it but the jury is still out.

If I found a chalk that I thought performed well above Master I wouldn't balk at price. Compared to what I have spent on tables, cues, balls and cases it's a pittance.
its still a piece of chalk
 
"Works fine" is very subjective. When I started playing, just having chalk was a blessing. I remember hoarding little broken pieces of Master chalk, there was no "other". Now we have choices to compare. I'm trying Predator even though I have a gross of Master. It seems to go on smoother and not have that "scritching" sound when applying. I think it is softer but it doesn't seem to vanish at a much faster rate than Master. I like it but the jury is still out.

If I found a chalk that I thought performed well above Master I wouldn't balk at price. Compared to what I have spent on tables, cues, balls and cases it's a pittance.
i might pay 5$ for a piece of chalk that is cleaner, but $25 .... no way .. i couldnt imagine getting $25 of value out of chalk to make it worth it
 
its still a piece of chalk
I used to build custom fishing rods for Tuna and other large saltwater fishing. Guys would spend great sums for a custom rod and even more for an appropriate reel, another stack of cash for thousands of yards of Spectra braided line, then complain at the price of Owner hooks, the only piece of the entire outfit that actually touched the fish. Chalk is pool's fish hook.
 
They gave me a schedule for each day I practice. Alot of mechanics stuff everyday with shot make and position drills filling in after the mechanic drills. Every day is different fallow day draw shot day but all days have mechanic drills. I'm fine with being bad for a few months just want to make sure I'm on the right track and something isn't off.
While there's no specific timeline for improvement, I think that if you practice every day and stick to the schedule you were given, I think it's reasonable to expect to see some improvement after a month - 6 weeks or so --- and for some players, even sooner, depending on their issues. If you continue to play worse after that time frame, then I suggest that you try to figure out what's going on. You don't want to ingrain bad habits into your game and then have break those habits.
 
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"Works fine" is very subjective. When I started playing, just having chalk was a blessing. I remember hoarding little broken pieces of Master chalk, there was no "other". Now we have choices to compare. I'm trying Predator even though I have a gross of Master. It seems to go on smoother and not have that "scritching" sound when applying. I think it is softer but it doesn't seem to vanish at a much faster rate than Master. I like it but the jury is still out.

If I found a chalk that I thought performed well above Master I wouldn't balk at price. Compared to what I have spent on tables, cues, balls and cases it's a pittance.
Isn't Predator one of those chalk brands where you don't have to chalk before every shot? What happens with those types if you do chalk before every shot? Chalk buildup on the tip?
 
I've tried just about every chalk made and the only difference from Masters is I have less money.
The free Masters at the room works just fine if you chalk up every couple shots,plus the mere act of stopping to chalk up allows a little more thinking about the next shot.
How many times have you seen world class players get down on a shot then get up grab the chalk and rethink what they are going to do?
 
I've tried just about every chalk made and the only difference from Masters is I have less money.
The free Masters at the room works just fine if you chalk up every couple shots,plus the mere act of stopping to chalk up allows a little more thinking about the next shot.
I find the Predator is easier to apply and I like the shape. More surface area.
 
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