Adding weight to cues

Dirtbmw20

Lee Casto
Silver Member
When ADDING weight to a cue, do I need to put any kind of thread lock like loctite or anything like that on the weight before screwing it into the butt end of the cue, to keep it from backing out and possibly rattleing later on down the road or do you just screw the weight in and forget about it ???
 
When ADDING weight to a cue, do I need to put any kind of thread lock like loctite or anything like that on the weight before screwing it into the butt end of the cue, to keep it from backing out and possibly rattleing later on down the road or do you just screw the weight in and forget about it ???

I try to make sure that my weight bolts all lock against something. I use headless set-screws that I screw in and leave them somewhere in the butt so as to get the balance point that I desire. If it locks against the bottom of the threaded hole then great. If they don't go to the bottom I use two screws, half the length of the needed screw and lock them together to prevent any movement.

Dick
 
In cases where I have tightened weight bolts for people, they have never had a problem again with it coming loose.

I had a guy come over to me at the hall last night who just bought a new cue. Players brand. It was rattling. I popped the bumper off, found an Allen wrench and tightened it. The bolt itself wasn't even close to being seated, so I would think it came that way.

If you are just adjusting weight and you don't know for sure as to whether you will stick to that weight, I wouldn't glue it in. It will cause you a head ache later if you want to remove it.

Just turn it in snuggly and it will be ok.
 
I have gone away from a weight bolt to mixing up heavy epoxy.
It is not as dense as a threaded rod, but does not come loose.
Neil
 
In cases where I have tightened weight bolts for people, they have never had a problem again with it coming loose.

I had a guy come over to me at the hall last night who just bought a new cue. Players brand. It was rattling. I popped the bumper off, found an Allen wrench and tightened it. The bolt itself wasn't even close to being seated, so I would think it came that way.

If you are just adjusting weight and you don't know for sure as to whether you will stick to that weight, I wouldn't glue it in. It will cause you a head ache later if you want to remove it.

Just turn it in snuggly and it will be ok.


I see a lot of those. I can't count the number of times people have brought cues to Me thinking something major was wrong, and when I looked at them, the bolt just needed tightening. Matter of fact I got tired of having to carry them back to the shop for such a simple fix, so I carry a set of hex T-handles, a Phillips head, and large Flathead in the pouch of My case for just those situations. In under a minute I usually have it tightened back up, and They are good to go. I don't even charge them for It when It's that simple, and I can't recall any coming loose again unless the threads were stripped, but in that case I would have to do more then simply tighten it anyhow.

I don't use glues on any of the cues I've built to hold them In and have never had one of those loosen up on It's own. If the bolt was headless Like Dick mentioned or in a location where I wouldn't have future access to It, then I would probably go with some added protection. I don't use headless bolts, although I do turn the head down quite a bit smaller then a stock carriage bolt, but It still has enough of a head left to tighten down. It's small enough that I can sink It up in the sleeve pretty far without compromising the wall thickness too much. Still yet A headless bolt would leave even more material there that wouldn't need to be removed.
 
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