Advice on Cue

Miss Spico

Miss Spico

Registered
Hello,

I know you are all probably tired of answering these rookie questions, but where else would I get the experience and wisdom for the best answer :')

I am 99% sure that I am going to purchase a Lambrose cue tonight. I love the balance. It's a very early model, because it has just the ML initial on the butt cap, rather than "Lambrose". Kinda dissappointed that I won't get that special joint, but I'm not sure that would be that significant to me.

The cue is in beautiful shape, 2 shafts, joint protectors, and a really nice matching extension piece comes with it. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture. It's very plain, meaning no design or points, but I think, elegant looking. 2 kinds of woods.

The price is $1100. and he is letting me make 3 payments for it, and I get the cue tonight. I have been playing with a Predator for about 7 years. Love it, but the balance isn't what I would like. The Lambrose feels great, and I think whatever deflection difference there may be, I can compensate for in a short time.

What think you?
Thank you in advance for your input and consideration.
 
Miss Spico said:
Hello,

I know you are all probably tired of answering these rookie questions, but where else would I get the experience and wisdom for the best answer :')

I am 99% sure that I am going to purchase a Lambrose cue tonight. I love the balance. It's a very early model, because it has just the ML initial on the butt cap, rather than "Lambrose". Kinda dissappointed that I won't get that special joint, but I'm not sure that would be that significant to me.

The cue is in beautiful shape, 2 shafts, joint protectors, and a really nice matching extension piece comes with it. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture. It's very plain, meaning no design or points, but I think, elegant looking. 2 kinds of woods.

The price is $1100. and he is letting me make 3 payments for it, and I get the cue tonight. I have been playing with a Predator for about 7 years. Love it, but the balance isn't what I would like. The Lambrose feels great, and I think whatever deflection difference there may be, I can compensate for in a short time.

What think you?
Thank you in advance for your input and consideration.
Click to expand...



To me it seems a little high, but not crazy high.

The new joint helps resale, and so the ML buyers, if they were interested might be less interested.

Secondly, I don't think Lambros has an e at the end.

Third, you are not talking about tons of money, and the seller seems flexible with payments (most including me would not let you pay that way). If you are tickled with the balance, the feel, the hit, sounds like a great cue.

My main interest usually is resale, because I flip a lot of cues. If you buy at a good price, you can sell at a better price and that means quicker.

Welcome to AZ, don't take anything too seriously here. Great folks and some trolls as well. If you ask for help, there are usually 2-5 PMs or replies with guys trying to help.

I wish you the best of rolls,

Ken
 
Going from a Predator to a Mike Lambros? Well, that's a step up and a step down at the same time.
$1,100 and you're making payments? Better get a contract in writing.
 
Miss Spico said:
Hello,

I know you are all probably tired of answering these rookie questions, but where else would I get the experience and wisdom for the best answer :')

I am 99% sure that I am going to purchase a Lambrose cue tonight. I love the balance. It's a very early model, because it has just the ML initial on the butt cap, rather than "Lambrose". Kinda dissappointed that I won't get that special joint, but I'm not sure that would be that significant to me.

The cue is in beautiful shape, 2 shafts, joint protectors, and a really nice matching extension piece comes with it. Sorry, I forgot to take a picture. It's very plain, meaning no design or points, but I think, elegant looking. 2 kinds of woods.

The price is $1100. and he is letting me make 3 payments for it, and I get the cue tonight. I have been playing with a Predator for about 7 years. Love it, but the balance isn't what I would like. The Lambrose feels great, and I think whatever deflection difference there may be, I can compensate for in a short time.

What think you?
Thank you in advance for your input and consideration.
Click to expand...

Don't want to be mean at all but here's what I really think:

- sounds expensive for what you're getting since it's a plain cue. Resale might be as low as $600 to $700. Here's an ebay Lambros that sold too cheap but still, it sold:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mike-Lambros-Custom-Made-19-Oz-58-Pool-Cue-w-2-Shafts-VERY-MINOR-WOBBLE-/380853817298?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58aca80fd2

- Can you really afford to have an $1100 cue? If you're only buying it now because he will take payments, then it's time to start thinking about how you manage credit and finances.

If you really like the cue, can afford to buy it and plan on keeping it for a long time, nothing else matters. But there are a lot of less expensive cues that play good too if money is tight.
 
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Thank you both. Dave could you expand a bit on what trade-offs you are referring too? I was only focused on liking the balance of the ML.
 
If you like it and can afford it, then by all means go for it.
Balance is just one part of the equation, though. You will be going back to a normal shaft which I find is difficult to adjust back to once you've used LD shafts for a while. And like others gave said, the price is probably higher than market value, so you will be out some money if you want to sell it in the future.
 
TATE said:
Don't want to be mean at all but here's what I really think:

- sounds expensive for what you're getting since it's a plain cue. Resale might be as low as $600 to $700. Here's an ebay Lambros that sold too cheap but still, it sold:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mike-Lambros-Custom-Made-19-Oz-58-Pool-Cue-w-2-Shafts-VERY-MINOR-WOBBLE-/380853817298?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58aca80fd2

- Can you really afford to have an $1100 cue? If you're only buying it now because he will take payments, then it's time to start thinking about how you manage credit and finances.

If you really like the cue, can afford to buy it and plan on keeping it for a long time, nothing else matters. But there are a lot of less expensive cues that play good too if money is tight.
Click to expand...

I can afford it, the timing isn't great, hence the payment setup. I guess my doubt is whether I just see this an opportunity for a new toy with the hope of improving and stepping up my game vs. whether I really need the cue or not and if I don't get it, would it be a missed opportunity. And how do I know if I love it when I have only played with it for an hour, vs my cue which I have played with for years (and I do have a good cue).

Maybe I should just practice more - lol, especially if the cue is overpriced.

Did I really just say all that outloud :)
Thank you for listening
 
Miss Spico said:
Thank you both. Dave could you expand a bit on what trade-offs you are referring too? I was only focused on liking the balance of the ML.
Click to expand...

Well, you're stepping up to a nice custom and you're stepping down to a cue that will hit nothing like the cue you are already used to.

My opinion, buy the Lambros if it makes you happy.
 
Seems a bit high to me as well...especially for an older Lambros. What about the balance point do you like? Is it more forward or more rear? There are other cues out there that could fill your needs for a lot less...perhaps something you could even get into now, without the payment thing. You could start a post in the W/FS section with what you are looking for with regards to balance point and weight, and what you want to spend...you will get replies, of that much I am sure. Once you find something you think you might like, do a little research on the seller, beyond their iTrader...you can do that search on AZB as well...that will tell the tale better than iTrader will, IMHO.

Especially for a first cue...you do not need to get in that deep to find what you need.
 
Ml

Doesn't matter if it's a little over priced if it feels better than any other cue you have tried an you like it. I have a few cues in the 2-3 thousand range an guess what I play with a 300 dollar Douglas cue cause I love the hit an balance on it. What I'm saying is higher priced cue doesn't mean it play better. Buying top cue makers cues just means it usally you can get your money back when ready to sell. An you should always shop around. Just my 2 cents good lucky with your purchased.
 
Miss Spico said:
I can afford it, the timing isn't great, hence the payment setup. I guess my doubt is whether I just see this an opportunity for a new toy with the hope of improving and stepping up my game vs. whether I really need the cue or not and if I don't get it, would it be a missed opportunity. And how do I know if I love it when I have only played with it for an hour, vs my cue which I have played with for years (and I do have a good cue).

Maybe I should just practice more - lol, especially if the cue is overpriced.

Did I really just say all that outloud :)
Thank you for listening
Click to expand...

The only time my game took a step up from a cue was when I went from a 12.75mm LD shaft to a 11.75mm very low squirt shaft. What happened was, I was having so much difficulty adjusting to the smaller tip and lower squirt that I practiced for many hours on end. After a few months of with it, I was in dead stroke and playing much better. it's been several years now and that's all I want to play with.

The Predator shafts won't ever have the balance and feel of a conventional shaft. The shaft is hollow at the end and light at the end (which is why they are low squirt) and usually light overall, typically 3.2 - 3.5 ounces.

Some players naturally play better with a conventional shaft. If you want to experiment, just have a conventional shaft made by a cue maker for your Predator. Should cost about $125. IOr contact Rysan at meuller's (Ratcues). Try to get it up to about 4 ounces overall weight with a similar taper to your Predator. Give it a few weeks and then go back to the Predator shaft - you'll see exactly what I'm talking about.
 
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