alcohol to clean shafts?
- Thread starter pixie
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Recommend Slip-Stic..
If you use Alcohol, use De-Natured...but I use Slip-Stic, Cleaner & Conditioner. Great Product...
http://slipstic.com/
If you use Alcohol, use De-Natured...but I use Slip-Stic, Cleaner & Conditioner. Great Product...
http://slipstic.com/
Alcohol can have a drying effect on the wood and can break down the protective oils so I would limit how often you do this.
Denatured alcohol is Ethanol which has been made by the addition of toxic solvents to the pure alcohol so I am not sure if the effects are any less.
Given the downside, I think there are even greater downsides to the cleaners producing longer term damage to your shaft. These cleaners leave residues behind that will damage your shaft.
So, alcohol by itself if used once and awhile should be fine (once a month). Your cue shaft will rebound as it picks up moisture from the air and oils from your hands.
Denatured alcohol is Ethanol which has been made by the addition of toxic solvents to the pure alcohol so I am not sure if the effects are any less.
Given the downside, I think there are even greater downsides to the cleaners producing longer term damage to your shaft. These cleaners leave residues behind that will damage your shaft.
So, alcohol by itself if used once and awhile should be fine (once a month). Your cue shaft will rebound as it picks up moisture from the air and oils from your hands.
99% isopropyl alcohol
I use alcohol fairly often. However what I use is the 99% isopropyl alcohol which sometimes has to be special ordered from a drug store. It should be less than $3 a pint and lasts a very long time.
The 70% isopropyl alcohol is 30% water which can raise the wood grain on your shaft. I haven't had any problem with the 99% stuff which dries much quicker.
Hu
I use alcohol fairly often. However what I use is the 99% isopropyl alcohol which sometimes has to be special ordered from a drug store. It should be less than $3 a pint and lasts a very long time.
The 70% isopropyl alcohol is 30% water which can raise the wood grain on your shaft. I haven't had any problem with the 99% stuff which dries much quicker.
Hu
ShootingArts said:
Yes, I agree but would still use only once and a while. Keep in mind that if your cue shaft and cue are an item you plan to keep for a long time, then I would use with caution. On the other hand if you plan to replace your cue shaft on a regular basis, then it almost does not matter what you use.
I use isopropyl alcohol to clean my shaft sometimes. It will pickup extra dirt left behind by your ordinary damp towel. I use the 99.9% isopropyl.
pixie said:
Long term, I doubt it since that's all I've used for over 15 years. I use denatured on the whole cue, shaft, wrap and finish. My Schon since it was new and my prior cue for a few years that has since has been retired.
I think one key as with anything is moderation. I use sparingly, in other words just enough to clean, not wet and dripping. I use it more in humid conditions and less in winter months. Keep in mind I'm not one that always has to have that pristine feel. My wrap is even more critical to me than a shaft, I hate it if it gets sticky. For the record the cue is straight as an arrow, even running in a lathe with only a tiny bit of runout which is normal.
Rod
I got this straight from Dzuricky Custom cues website (www.dzcues.com)
Haven't personally tried this yet. Just saw it the other day. There is a lot of other "cue care" tips on there. Here's a link:
http://www.dzcues.com/cue_care.htm
Haven't personally tried this yet. Just saw it the other day. There is a lot of other "cue care" tips on there. Here's a link:
http://www.dzcues.com/cue_care.htm
PoolSleuth
Banned
I have an acquaintance who swears by Ronson’s Lighter Fluid, and 2000, 2500, or Finer GRIT Sandpaper for Shaft Cleaning.
Personally I have found that having Clean Hands to start with, and an Old Clean T-Shirt, or Terry Cloth Towel to whip perspiration off your hands with works wonders.
I also use a “Tiger Brand” LEBR Shaft Burnisher about once a week, and it help keep my shafts clean, and smooth as a babies bottom.
Personally I have found that having Clean Hands to start with, and an Old Clean T-Shirt, or Terry Cloth Towel to whip perspiration off your hands with works wonders.
I also use a “Tiger Brand” LEBR Shaft Burnisher about once a week, and it help keep my shafts clean, and smooth as a babies bottom.
PoolSleuth said:
Lighter fluid is not bad because it has an oil base to it. Its only problem is that it is not that pure (clean), but will work well. And yes, clean hands are key except during play you will pick up stuff from the table which gets on your shaft.
Magic Eraser is awesome
I know we have posted this before, but here it is again.
The Magic Eraser (Mr. Clean product) is the best shaft cleaner yet. It comes with 2 "eraser" like blocks that are pure white. You get slightly wet, just damp, and glide it up and down the shaft. It actually pulls the chalk right out of the wood. I have never seen any damage at all and I trust it so much, that I use it on my Samsara. This works on all cues, bare wood, waxed, or the ones with the finish still on them.
For $3 US, you will be amazed at the crisp results.
I know we have posted this before, but here it is again.
The Magic Eraser (Mr. Clean product) is the best shaft cleaner yet. It comes with 2 "eraser" like blocks that are pure white. You get slightly wet, just damp, and glide it up and down the shaft. It actually pulls the chalk right out of the wood. I have never seen any damage at all and I trust it so much, that I use it on my Samsara. This works on all cues, bare wood, waxed, or the ones with the finish still on them.
For $3 US, you will be amazed at the crisp results.
I have not tried Magic Eraser yet but I wonder why they post the following; "The Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is a highly effective cleaning tool. Test first on a well-lit, inconspicuous spot with light pressure. Let the spot dry to see if surface is modified or damaged. Not recommended for the following surfaces: high gloss, polished, dark, brushed, satin, faux, bare/polished wood,. If using for dishwashing, rinse dishes thoroughly. Do not use with chlorine bleach or on vehicle body.
Anyway, I'll try it on my sons cheap cue and check it out. One of the biggest problems with the softer wooden shafts is that they collect more blue from the chalk.
Anyway, I'll try it on my sons cheap cue and check it out. One of the biggest problems with the softer wooden shafts is that they collect more blue from the chalk.
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Magic Eraser and wood.
I tested it on older cues with bare wood and finish still on them. They all turned out fantastic. So after keeping an eye on them for 2 months, I realized it works perfectly. I would never put my Samsara in harms way.
Just keep the water light, and dry off right afterwrds very well.
pete lafond said:
I tested it on older cues with bare wood and finish still on them. They all turned out fantastic. So after keeping an eye on them for 2 months, I realized it works perfectly. I would never put my Samsara in harms way.
Just keep the water light, and dry off right afterwrds very well.
I use a cheap Ethanol / Methanol mix that is sold in drug stores over here for 'fuel' (cooking stoves, lab experiments?). Less than $2 a litre and works great, dries fast and doesn't raise the grain as it contains no water whatsoever. Hasn't harmed any of the finish on the but either (wrapless butt). No warpage has been noticed in two years of use. I then lightly buff the shaft with #2000 paper and burnish with a piece of leather.
As others here have said, clean hands (mine sweat a lot) care in chalking and having a towel to wipe your hands on goes a long way.
That Magic eraser stuff, I use that on cues that I clean up for others on my lathe. I add a bit of the stuff I mentioned above, instead of water, give it a rub down (really removes the chalk and whitens up the cue) but does raise the grain. I have to then turn it in the lathe with 800 - 1000 - 1500 and finally 2000 before burnishing with the leather again. I have had nothing but praise from the folks I've done it for. I wouldn't use it if I didn't have my lathe handy, too much work getting the grain down by hand.
As others here have said, clean hands (mine sweat a lot) care in chalking and having a towel to wipe your hands on goes a long way.
That Magic eraser stuff, I use that on cues that I clean up for others on my lathe. I add a bit of the stuff I mentioned above, instead of water, give it a rub down (really removes the chalk and whitens up the cue) but does raise the grain. I have to then turn it in the lathe with 800 - 1000 - 1500 and finally 2000 before burnishing with the leather again. I have had nothing but praise from the folks I've done it for. I wouldn't use it if I didn't have my lathe handy, too much work getting the grain down by hand.
Another thing to help keep your shaft clean on top of frequently washing yoru hands that I do is wipe my tip off before putting it in my case. Keeps the inside tube of your case from getting all chalky and therefore keeps your shaft from getting chalky. I just keep damp paper towels in a ziplock freezer bag in my case. They don't need to hardly be wet at all, just a tiny tiny bit moist. I'm not sure if that might mess up your tip but I've been doing it for a while now with no problems. I've heard not to touch your tip with your finger because of the oils on your hands but I don't think a moist paper towel will hurt.