I do not fill it with anything. The idea is to remove mass, not add something soggy.
Then again, i have only a few cues (& a dozen or so blanks) to my name; which name also means nothing in the cue world.
Per your notes about patents: There are more than you might be aware of, and many don't make a lot of sense. But someone like Predator could use them to swat makers they perceive as a challenge. As you know from your mentioned experience with patents, a patent is merely a license to litigate. If you/patent owner become aware of an infringement and don't litigate, a later challenge by the patent owner could be vacated by the courts. There are more than a couple on the subject of deflection and hollow shafts, i forget which one was in recent years brandished by a major producer, but start here.
Just as importantly, read all the way down to the bibliography of cited prior patents. Then select and follow those, etc, etc.
Nope, most don't make sense to me and most people who paid for a patent lost money on them. But there they are.
I would not use LD Davis glue for woodworking, though it may have appeal to your project. Their focus is "green" & food safe, so AFAICT they do not use any preservatives/antimicrobials. Most of their formulations are for paper type stuff. Like lickable envelopes, stamps, food exposure, that type product. I'm not liking the starch and sugar additives for durability or appropriateness for woodworking. I've been buying from Eugene Thordahl/Bjorn Industries for some 30 years, including many 5 lb units (that's a lot of wet glue) for Whitehouse projects during the early 2000's. Bjorn used to have a lot more info on their site, though. Even if it somehow turns out tht Bjorn Industries is buying from LD Davis, I trust the specific products being tailored and vetted by Gene.
I really like using hot hide glue, but there is too much to understand about any adhesive product, and how wood interacts with it and moisture, sun, and other environmental effects to cover in a short online discussion. It is appropriate to cue sticks, perhaps even "modern" ones. But there are some gotchas, there is market perception, and there is how to manage wood movement. One of the reasons white/yellow glues work so well for modern cabinet making is because they do "give" (As LLD points out as a defect). HHG does not, which is why it is better for musical instruments, among many other things. Epoxies make it possible to contrive constructions that would be iffy with other adhesives. & epoxy is the only one that is essentially insensitive to joint condition. White/yellow, HHG, plastic resin, phenolics all require near perfect knife planed joints for best bonding because they partly depend on intiating wood-to-wood "welding". Epoxy works better with coarse jointery and thick gluelines. Etc.
Love WEST epoxy, and phenol resorcinals - they make so many technical constructions possible with wood (airplane propellers) and are more or less weatherproof. They are also easier to use than HHG on large constructions, laminations, and lay-ups.
Your ideas are fine - so often there is nothing really wrong with traditional materials & methods of work for a given performance. Usually they are easier to maintain (with a cultural skill base) even over centuries. E.g. acoustic stringed instruments. OTOH, they do require that periodic maintenance. The concept just no longer lends itself to the modern idea of disposable permanence for many products. (The wooden product should be bullet proof and look like it was made out of shiny plastic, forever. When it does not, anymore, it either needs completely/invasively redone, or thrown out)
One of my kid brothers lives in Minnesota, i've not been out. Upstate NY, here,
Then again, i have only a few cues (& a dozen or so blanks) to my name; which name also means nothing in the cue world.
Per your notes about patents: There are more than you might be aware of, and many don't make a lot of sense. But someone like Predator could use them to swat makers they perceive as a challenge. As you know from your mentioned experience with patents, a patent is merely a license to litigate. If you/patent owner become aware of an infringement and don't litigate, a later challenge by the patent owner could be vacated by the courts. There are more than a couple on the subject of deflection and hollow shafts, i forget which one was in recent years brandished by a major producer, but start here.
US20040009822A1 - Billiard cue - Google Patents
A billiard cue includes a shaft having a hollow bore extending for a predetermined distance from a first end of the shaft to reduce the tip end weight of the shaft. In one aspect, where the shaft is formed of a composite material consisting of fibers in a binder, such as carbon fibers in an...
patents.google.com
Just as importantly, read all the way down to the bibliography of cited prior patents. Then select and follow those, etc, etc.
Nope, most don't make sense to me and most people who paid for a patent lost money on them. But there they are.
I would not use LD Davis glue for woodworking, though it may have appeal to your project. Their focus is "green" & food safe, so AFAICT they do not use any preservatives/antimicrobials. Most of their formulations are for paper type stuff. Like lickable envelopes, stamps, food exposure, that type product. I'm not liking the starch and sugar additives for durability or appropriateness for woodworking. I've been buying from Eugene Thordahl/Bjorn Industries for some 30 years, including many 5 lb units (that's a lot of wet glue) for Whitehouse projects during the early 2000's. Bjorn used to have a lot more info on their site, though. Even if it somehow turns out tht Bjorn Industries is buying from LD Davis, I trust the specific products being tailored and vetted by Gene.
I really like using hot hide glue, but there is too much to understand about any adhesive product, and how wood interacts with it and moisture, sun, and other environmental effects to cover in a short online discussion. It is appropriate to cue sticks, perhaps even "modern" ones. But there are some gotchas, there is market perception, and there is how to manage wood movement. One of the reasons white/yellow glues work so well for modern cabinet making is because they do "give" (As LLD points out as a defect). HHG does not, which is why it is better for musical instruments, among many other things. Epoxies make it possible to contrive constructions that would be iffy with other adhesives. & epoxy is the only one that is essentially insensitive to joint condition. White/yellow, HHG, plastic resin, phenolics all require near perfect knife planed joints for best bonding because they partly depend on intiating wood-to-wood "welding". Epoxy works better with coarse jointery and thick gluelines. Etc.
Love WEST epoxy, and phenol resorcinals - they make so many technical constructions possible with wood (airplane propellers) and are more or less weatherproof. They are also easier to use than HHG on large constructions, laminations, and lay-ups.
Your ideas are fine - so often there is nothing really wrong with traditional materials & methods of work for a given performance. Usually they are easier to maintain (with a cultural skill base) even over centuries. E.g. acoustic stringed instruments. OTOH, they do require that periodic maintenance. The concept just no longer lends itself to the modern idea of disposable permanence for many products. (The wooden product should be bullet proof and look like it was made out of shiny plastic, forever. When it does not, anymore, it either needs completely/invasively redone, or thrown out)
One of my kid brothers lives in Minnesota, i've not been out. Upstate NY, here,
Last edited: