Another awesome three rail kicking system

[recoveryjones]

This is another one of those "mark a spot" on the wall kicking systems that works really well.It's a varation of the one earlier illustrated by Supergreenman.

First you'll need to test your table with a three rail kick.Tables vary from brand to brand and poolroom to poolroom and factors such as humidity,cloth conditions and rails etc etc come into play.

here's how you test your table:

1. Set the cue ball in the jaws of your starting corner pocket.

2. Aim at diamond #two down table on the long rail, opposite side of the table far end.

3. Attempt(using one tip of high running english) a three rail kick to the corner same side of the table as your cue ball, opposite corner.

4. Determine if this kick has left your three rail kick long or short
and make adjustments on the first rail contact point.Depending on your table your first rail contact point for this kick might be anywhere from 1.5 to 2.5 diamonds up from the far end.Example 2.2 for instance.

5. Once you've established what kick aiming point takes you to the corner pocket mark your spot on the wall.Remember that that spot MUST be in the six-nine foot range for this to work.A laser pointer is a really helpful tool in marking your spot accuratley.

6. Once your spot is marked on the wall, you can virtually make a three rail kick from anywhere aiming at that same spot with a tip of high running english,providing you strike the cue ball accuratlety.Of couse if your cue ball is located away down the far end of the table near diamond one you'll run out of room, unless of course you remedy that with some extreme running english.

If your cue ball (starting point)is really close to the first long rail some adjustments have to be made and I ussually aim a tad longer.Other than that this is an extremley accurate system. If you want to come short or long of the corner pocket, you mearly aim longer or shorter down the rail past your rail marking that intersects your spot on the wall. With some practice and experimentation you will figure things out quite easily.The closer the object ball to the third cushion the easier the hit. If the ball is more to the middle of the table,track lines can be visulized.

You may find that your tip of high right running english is different from your tip of high left running english and that could be visual or it might be a stroke flaw.Once again experiment

Marking the spots(on the wall) is a great advantage for anyone who has a home pool table and wants to smoke their friends. It is also good to do in your poolrooms feature tables that everyone allways plays on. Make your spots inconspicious and no-one will know.

This is a good complimentary system to the first one shown by Supergreenman as sometimes no english routes are blocked while routes with running english are open.

RJ

ps. Days with extreme humidity may alter things,so do some periodical re-checks. Also beware of new cloth till it gets worked in.

 

[scottycoyote]

i just bought cj wileys "secrets of pool", like a 3 cd set, and he shows that same system, pretty cool stuff. Danny basivich has a 3 rail kick system that works really well too, where you find the spot midway between the cueball and the object ball, you take that spot to the corner pocket, then you parallel your aim with the cueball.

 

[Bob Jewett]

... 5. Once you've established what kick aiming point takes you to the corner pocket mark your spot on the wall.Remember that that spot MUST be in the six-nine foot range for this to work.A laser pointer is a really helpful tool in marking your spot accuratley.
...

I think the system will be more accurate if you determine the correct distance. That's done as I described in the other 3_C kick thread. "6-9" is too much variation if the cue ball starts far from the measured line.

 

[supergreenman]

I think the system will be more accurate if you determine the correct distance. That's done as I described in the other 3_C kick thread. "6-9" is too much variation if the cue ball starts far from the measured line.

All I know is I think I'm going to have to book a day off work to spend at the pool hall trying out all these systems. and taking them to the 4th and 5th rail as well.

 

[recoveryjones]

I think the system will be more accurate if you determine the correct distance. That's done as I described in the other 3_C kick thread. "6-9" is too much variation if the cue ball starts far from the measured line.

Hi Bob,

I tried it out today at my home pool hall on a table that was recently re-clothed.I notice I had to make some slight adjustments aiming left or right a tad of the spot depending on the kick.It seemed the down the table longer kicks, I had to aim a bit longer and the shorter up the table kicks a little shorter.After 5 minutes of experimentation I could kick a three railer to the corner quite succesfully.

I'm thinking that the new cloth was what made the system not as reliable.Usually on that table I aim at diamond 2.5 to make that 3 railer. Today I had to kick at diamond #3 as the table was kicking long, no doubt because of the new cloth.I've heard it mentioned(Dr. Cue)that tables with new cloth do in fact kick long as the ball slides of of the rails until the cloth is worn in.When the table starts kicking more normal (shorter) I'll put the system to the test again and post the results.

Either way that spot on the wall is an excellent reference point, if slight adjustments do in fact need to be made.If you kick at that spot you will be close(if not bang on) for sure

I didn't measure the exact distance of the spot,however, it seemed to be 7 feet away.Some kind of exact distance would be nice,however, they are not likely to re-construct their walls at the pool hall to accomadate us.

RJ