Another GD tip question?

danquixote

danquixote

DanQuixote
Silver Member
several posts lately have concerned tip maintenance,selection,and performance. During the course of these posts reference was often made to reducing overall tip height. I routinely take a bit off myself. My method is simply sanding it on a machine table untill it is to my liking. I sand the side that is marked glue or simply marked in some way to indicate. I use Moori med and as most know, they have no pre-shaped radius. My question is this......is there some legit reason the tip can't be sanded from either side. Sanding off the excess material on a perfectly flat surface eliminates trying to hold a razor blade at a precise 90 degrees while trimming. If I understand the basic manufacturing process for laminated tips.....it involves skiving thin layers of hide and then binding them together. The tip is then cookie cutter punched from this laminate. If this is essentially true.....why would only one side of the tip be suitable for gluing?????
 
I asked myself that very same question once, so to find out, I purposely glued a Moori tip with the glue side up. I took it to the pool hall and the first time I hit a ball with it the cue popped off. Get it? The cue popped off. :D
 
Tramp Steamer said:
I asked myself that very same question once, so to find out, I purposely glued a Moori tip with the glue side up. I took it to the pool hall and the first time I hit a ball with it the cue popped off. Get it? The cue popped off. :D
Click to expand...

Do you think Moori might be putting a small detonator in the tip to foil those that run against the wind?????
 
The Moori tip is a laminate of 11 layers of pigskin. Up front, I don't know the answer to your questin. As an engineer, I can envision having layers of different density, thickness, and different physical properties based on the manufacturing process. After cureing, aging, and skiving, they then can cobine a composite of layers with different properties. I'm ignorant in the area of leathers, but one layer could have been made wtih special properties that would accept glue better. I can't imagine they would take to trouble to print "Glue Side" without a reason. These Japanese are very clever (no disparagent intended). I would also imagine that each tip manufacturer considers their manufacturing process as a trade secret, so you may never know the answer.
 
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I've installed lots of Moori's, as well as all the other laminated tips and the only thing that comes to mind is the glue side is treated at the factory to harden, and thereby strengthen that side of the tip. The process only involves the first one or two layers. Everest, I noticed has a thin fibre disc one layer up on the glue side.
Sanding the glue side flattens and roughens the surface for better adherance when the tip is glued to the ferrule. I used to keep a small pane of plate glass (plate glass is dead flat) handy with a piece of sand paper taped to it just for that purpose, and only sanded the tip until the base color had gone from dark to light.
When you say you use a knife, I assume you mean you use it to shape the tip. So did I. Moori tips shape as well as any made, but I always made sure I used a new, or almost new blade to shape with.
Of the eleven layers of the Moori (I believe it's eleven) only about five or so are actually used, after it's installed.
I don't know if I have been any help, but there you go. By-the-way, what does bump mean?
 
danquixote said:
several posts lately have concerned tip maintenance,selection,and performance. During the course of these posts reference was often made to reducing overall tip height. I routinely take a bit off myself. My method is simply sanding it on a machine table untill it is to my liking. I sand the side that is marked glue or simply marked in some way to indicate. I use Moori med and as most know, they have no pre-shaped radius. My question is this......is there some legit reason the tip can't be sanded from either side. Sanding off the excess material on a perfectly flat surface eliminates trying to hold a razor blade at a precise 90 degrees while trimming. If I understand the basic manufacturing process for laminated tips.....it involves skiving thin layers of hide and then binding them together. The tip is then cookie cutter punched from this laminate. If this is essentially true.....why would only one side of the tip be suitable for gluing?????
Click to expand...




This question has been addressed on the forum before and I think you are going receive the same answer, if it says to glue a certain side why not just do it. You say you understand manufacturing, well I can tell you this about Moori tips, no other tip trims the same way on a lathe. The process for curing the leather, and the application of layers must be in some way different than other tip manufacturers. I put on over 100 tips a month, and normally go through around 20 Moori tips, I have almost every kind of tip sold today, along with tips that around a 100 years old in my collection.

I suspect that for the price of the Moori tips it is best to just follow the manufactures instructions, especially since what ever they are doing is certainly different than any other tip manufacturer.

JIMO
 
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