Another warped 314.....

Send the shaft to Predator and have Neil, check it out, He has been working on some interesting things with shafts, It doesn't hurt to include the famous letter that says how much you love their product but somewhat dissappointed because,
A little sugar, is better than vinegar.
 
I have one that I sent to them for straightening and got it back just as warped as before. They said it was within acceptable tolerances, I guess it was acceptably warped!! That is when I switched to the McDermott I shafts and the 314 sits in the closet. McDermotts are guaranteed against warping. I prefer the I3 over the I2.
Thats my 2 cents,
Dan
 
Tons'O'fun said:
The ferrule/tip do not leave the slate when I roll the cue assembled or just the shaft alone. The warp seems to be at the point where the pro taper starts. Almost looks as though it could be that the shaft is out of round.

It does not sound warped to me. It sounds like the taper is not perfect which is sort of normal. Surely they use CNC though...

This also happens when you sand a shaft. If you do not sand it perfect, more light will show on the heavily sanded areas. This makes the shaft look warped but it is not.

It would take a very interesting warp to keep the tip and ferrule on the table for the entire revolution :)
 
Tons'O'fun said:
Hi Dan. When I did a search for "warped shafts" on this forum, your post was one that really got me thinking. Hence this thread. It's a valid question, who's to say that, (A.) It will be straighter than before and, (B.) It won't be worse than before.

Thanks for your two cents! (P.S. it was worth at least a nickel)

I have three Predator shafts and they are all dead straight and have stayed that way. I think it's worth a try to send it to Predator.

Chris
 
Hooked said:
It does not sound warped to me. It sounds like the taper is not perfect which is sort of normal. Surely they use CNC though...

This also happens when you sand a shaft. If you do not sand it perfect, more light will show on the heavily sanded areas. This makes the shaft look warped but it is not.

It would take a very interesting warp to keep the tip and ferrule on the table for the entire revolution :)

Most warped shafts will still keep the tip/ferrule flat when rolled and at the joint section too. I check them by putting the shaft alone on a flat counter or table at eye level, and slowly turn it. Any warp will change the gap between the shaft and the counter at the taper.

I check the shaft and handle separately, if both are straight but the cue still wobbles at the joint, the joint or pin is off and needs refacing or straightening.

Chris
 
Tons'O'fun said:
Predator doesn't warranty against warpage, that and I have no way of registering the shaft with Predator as you need a retail receipt to do so.

As QUEDUP posted above, they'll only try to straighten the shaft, if it's even considered "outside acceptable tolerances". I know straightening won't work in the long term, and the shaft might warp again on the way back to Canada.

I'd like to just send my cue butt into the manufacturer and have them make a custom shaft for it, but I'm afraid the new shaft will arrive warped as well.

What to do, what to do....

This doesn't sound like a quandry at all. Quit wringing your hands and ship it back.
 
TATE said:
I have three Predator shafts and they are all dead straight and have stayed that way. I think it's worth a try to send it to Predator.

Chris


As anti-Predator as I am, I agree with this. The Predator that I do have is about 4 years old and dead straight. I can't complain about that.
 
Tons'O'fun said:
That's how I checked the shaft, only I used 3 different pool table slates. When I roll the shaft slowly, I can see there is a lift of about 1/16th, ( maybe 3/32nds), of an inch. When I roll the shaft quickly, it really dances.

Together or apart, the shaft has a warp.

I think you're right. Forget shipping it back for straightening.Who knows if it will keep straight or even worse, change the hit.

Here's what I suggest:

- If you can afford it, send the cue to Predator and get a new shaft fitted. Keep the other shaft as your back-up in case you break off a tip.

- Or, sell the slightly warped shaft. I think you can get $100 for it. There is a pretty good market for used Predators. I sold one for $150 right away not too long ago that was threaded for 5/16 X 18. With only a 16th roll, the shaft is definitely salable.

- Consider this. Many of us have thousands into our playing cues. We've tweaked them, changed stuff, changed cues etc. Finding a cue you really like/trust and are comfortable with is almost "priceless" because it costs so much to keep changing cues.

- I'm a stickler for straight playing shafts. I don't think 1/16th is very much.

You have to look at the big picture. I think you've struck pay dirt with this cue, just need to get a new good straight shaft, no biggie - just a few hundred.

Chris
 
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drivermaker said:
As anti-Predator as I am, I agree with this. The Predator that I do have is about 4 years old and dead straight. I can't complain about that.

Hi Drivermaker,

I have a few good talks with some of the really good players out here. I'm talking pro or pro speed players. I will not listen to B or C players about it, because their strokes are not precise enough to really blame or credit the shaft for performance differences.

I'm convinced that the following is true:

-- For some players, they really work well and it actually helps them to elevate their game.

-- For some players, they don't work worth a damn and it actually hurts their game.

Take that for what it's worth, that's my conclusion.

I've heard it enough and seen it enough. What the whole thing is about is the effect a Predator shaft has in the hands of the player who is using it. I have no good explanation why either. :confused:

Chris
 
Tons'O'fun said:
Any chance the shaft will go back to true on it's own?. I mean could it possibly re-acclimatize and find it's trueness again?. Am I dreaming?.


Don't be surprised if the tooth fairy stops by tonight and drops some money off for one that she forgot when you were a kid. Mayber Tinker Bell too. ;)
 
Predator Shafts

I was under the impression that all Predator shafts with the same joint screw were interchangable. I have purchased a bunch of them for other cues and every one of them was a good fit. I don't think you have to ship the cue to get a shaft for it. Correct me if I am wrong.
Purdman :cool:
 
Tons'O'fun said:
You're probably right, I could sell the shaft, but it's probably worth more to keep it as a back-up. I may just play with it 'as is' and live with it.

I spoke with Amanda Janes at Joss, she said they could make a custom fit shaft for my cue for $140 USD with a 13mm tip and 13" Pro-taper. This might be the option I will explore.

If I sell on ebay and claim the warp is only 1/16th, the buyer may send it back and say it's 3/32nds. Then I'm out shipping yet again and potentially facing a negative or nuetral feedback comment.

I don't think 1/16th is that bad either, but when I buy a new cue with a warped shaft it really bums me out.

It's ironic - I was thinking the shaft would be safe because it's laminated. I was s%#t worried about the butt of the cue warping though, and it's perfect!.

Any chance the shaft will go back to true on it's own?. I mean could it possibly re-acclimatize and find it's trueness again?. Am I dreaming?.

The thing to consider is the balance and weight of a Predator shaft is a lot different than a standard shaft. The warning is, if you like the cue now with a Predator, you might not like it as much with a conventional.

My Predator weights 1/2 ounce less than the conventional equivalents. Now this may not sound like much, but most of that 1/2 ounce is right in the front of the shaft, so besides having a different impact feel it really changes the overall weight and balance of the cue.

Maybe you should try the Predator out for awhile, then decide. Players who perform well with a Predator shaft seem to stick with them, but players who experience no improvement eventually go back to a conventional shaft because they prefer the feel.

Chris
 
Donald A. Purdy said:
I was under the impression that all Predator shafts with the same joint screw were interchangable. I have purchased a bunch of them for other cues and every one of them was a good fit. I don't think you have to ship the cue to get a shaft for it. Correct me if I am wrong.
Purdman :cool:

If it's a standard uniloc, you should be right.

Chris
 
Tons'O'fun said:
My 314 shaft was custom fit by Joss onto a Joss butt. If it was a Predator butt, you would be absolutely correct.

I have ordered them for Espiritu, Joss, Viking, Kikel, and many more. Never had a problem. If you measure your joint, my source will measure the shaft and ship it. I swear I have never had a problem. Now if you are talking about matching joint rings, you are correct.
Purdman ;)
 
Tons'O'fun said:
I'm still stuck with a warped shaft and I can't afford to buy a new one.

Unless your source will trade a straight one for a warped one plus a few bucks, I'm stuck.

The ring is the solid black type, so that isn't a problem, however my available funds are a problem.

Thanks anyway, but I'm just going to have to suck it up and live with it.

In all seriousness, call Predator and ask for Neil, Send it and let him take a look at it, You have nothing to lose.
 
Cues that have been left in one position in a showcase with light on it will warp if they are not turned in the case sometimes and 2 yrs. is a long time.
 
quedup said:
I have one that I sent to them for straightening and got it back just as warped as before. They said it was within acceptable tolerances, I guess it was acceptably warped!! That is when I switched to the McDermott I shafts and the 314 sits in the closet. McDermotts are guaranteed against warping. I prefer the I3 over the I2.
Thats my 2 cents,
Dan

I realy like the new mcdermott i shafts to. they seem to hit pretty good wish I would have gotten a i -shaft over the universal shaft, <smart shaft>
 
Where are you located tons o fun? you should see if you can get a local CUEMAKER to get the predator blank and get it rockin for YOUR cue. You're gonna save time, money, and gray hair. If not that, see if you can get the current shaft retapered. I personally think that it's just not evenly tapered. Best of luck.
 
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