"Antique" Diamond Ball Polisher

Couldn’t you just integrate an existing diamond ball cleaner into an antique finished box matching your table?
Just so not the point. I derive a lot of satisfaction from all aspects of the designing, problem solving, building and finishing. I taught myself autocad for the design, had to figure out the mechanics spacing and belt lengths, etc. I’m sure I could have hired a carpenter to build it too but then what would be the point.
 
Just so not the point. I derive a lot of satisfaction from all aspects of the designing, problem solving, building and finishing. I taught myself autocad for the design, had to figure out the mechanics spacing and belt lengths, etc. I’m sure I could have hired a carpenter to build it too but then what would be the point.
100%. Some folks just don't understand. Looks great so far! When does the laminate arrive?
 
Live and learn! So previously I posted a photo of the top Plywood with the cans attached. I laminated the top with Formica, flush cut the edges and was pretty pleased with the results......until.......I dry fitted the cans with carpet, the Diamond Star insert, and 8 pool balls.View attachment 774248

I was too upset to even take the photo. Apparently there is a difference between Schedule 40 10' diameter PVC and Schedule 40 SDR 26 10" diameter PVC of about 1/2". My inside diameter is about 1/2" too small. The entire thing is so tight that everything is bound up and the balls wouldn't spin freely.

So my choices are to redo the top with new PVC and Formica, or try to engineer a smaller Diamond insert. I've opted for the first option and awaiting the delivery of the new PVC, going to look for some more Formica and start again.

Who would have guessed "SDR 26" could cause such chaos?



View attachment 774248
So, which one is the larger version of pipe?
 
So after I discovered the mistake of the wrong PVC, I took a break from the project to regain my sanity, and rebuilt the can deck correctly. Then I took several scrap pieces of oak and started to work on the color for the stain. After several attempts I found one (Minwax Honey) that is close enough in color that I'm happy with it. Oak is a very hard wood and to get a really dark stain takes some work. I have stained the entire case three times and have hit the limit of what the wood will take up. Oak darkens with age and 100 years of patina is going to be impossible to replicate but I think I'm close. The polisher is a bit lighter than the table even though the photos make it look darker. A sample of the formica (WilsonArt "English Oak" that I'm trying to source without buying an entire sheet) is shown too. Once I clearcoat with a finish I'll be close to done.


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Is that a critter door in the bottom of the white door on the left??
I went thru many, many hardware store trips trying to match the rail blinds to my rails on my GCI, when it was all said and done I ended up mixing 2 colors of stain together to get the best match. I hope I never have to touch it up, Ill be dammed if I can remember what 2 colors I used and what the percentages were. Of course I wrote it all down and stored that note in a safe place, NOT!!.
 
Is that a critter door in the bottom of the white door on the left??
I went thru many, many hardware store trips trying to match the rail blinds to my rails on my GCI, when it was all said and done I ended up mixing 2 colors of stain together to get the best match. I hope I never have to touch it up, Ill be dammed if I can remember what 2 colors I used and what the percentages were. Of course I wrote it all down and stored that note in a safe place, NOT!!.
Yes we used to have our cat’s litter box behind the door. Now she’s too old to make it down the stairs so I covered it up. At some point I’ll replace the door.
 
So I have the laminate on order and it should be arriving in 2 weeks. Lowes sells smaller sheets (3'X8') for $80. I'll have a lot left over but I couldn't find a scrap anywhere. I have finished the case with stain and 3 coats of Minwax Polycrylic semigloss. All that is left is to apply the laminate, flushcut router the edges and install the carpet.

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I am thinking of Hot Glue to hold the carpets in place in the cans. Anyone have a better idea?? Looks like Diamond uses Velcro but I'm not sure how to apply the Velcro to the carpet. Is it sewn on, self adhesive, glued??
 
So I have the laminate on order and it should be arriving in 2 weeks. Lowes sells smaller sheets (3'X8') for $80. I'll have a lot left over but I couldn't find a scrap anywhere. I have finished the case with stain and 3 coats of Minwax Polycrylic semigloss. All that is left is to apply the laminate, flushcut router the edges and install the carpet.

View attachment 782780View attachment 782781

I am thinking of Hot Glue to hold the carpets in place in the cans. Anyone have a better idea?? Looks like Diamond uses Velcro but I'm not sure how to apply the Velcro to the carpet. Is it sewn on, self adhesive, glued??
Looks great! I used carpet tape on mine to hold the carpet in place. Works great.
 
Don't use hot glue! Carpet tape or, a spray glue sprayed on one surface only, can be peeled off then.
I have switched my carpet from what I was using, pieces cut from 2x2 carpet squares to an indoor/outdoor carpet from menards. Much softer texture and gives a more polished look. Also was extremely cheap, came on a roll 6' wide and I think I got a 3' piece. So 18 sq feet for about $20. No more cleaning the carpet, just throw it out and put new stuff on.
 
I'm almost there! I received the Wilsonart laminate (English Oak) from Lowes on Friday.

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and laminated the top. It turned out well.

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I also used rexus31 and muskyed suggestion to apply the carpet with carpet tape in the cans. Seems like it is holding well so far. I'll get a photo with the carpet installed at a later point.

The only thing I still have to work on is the timer switch/ plate cover. After a lot of thought, I've decided to buy the oak switch plate, stain it to match the case and then use a wood burner to burn in the timer minute markings, then apply the polycoat. I'll spray-paint the white knob with a matching color. It's not a high wear and tear application so it should hold up.

Someone mentioned a glass dispenser for the isopropyl alcohol/Aramith ball cleaner solution they found on line. Any help/ideas where to source one would be greatly appreciated.
 
Simple plastic finish bottle from woodworking stores works great. Can dispence a drop at a time.
Plus, unlike glass, you never have to worry about dropping and breaking it.
Edit, that shop looks too clean.
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I'm almost there! I received the Wilsonart laminate (English Oak) from Lowes on Friday.

View attachment 785446

and laminated the top. It turned out well.

View attachment 785447


View attachment 785448
I also used rexus31 and muskyed suggestion to apply the carpet with carpet tape in the cans. Seems like it is holding well so far. I'll get a photo with the carpet installed at a later point.

The only thing I still have to work on is the timer switch/ plate cover. After a lot of thought, I've decided to buy the oak switch plate, stain it to match the case and then use a wood burner to burn in the timer minute markings, then apply the polycoat. I'll spray-paint the white knob with a matching color. It's not a high wear and tear application so it should hold up.

Someone mentioned a glass dispenser for the isopropyl alcohol/Aramith ball cleaner solution they found on line. Any help/ideas where to source one would be greatly appreciated.
Look great!

I went with these bottles but they are no longer available in blue. It looks like there are some in amber and if you look toward the bottom of the listing, there seems to be a clear option available as well.

 
I'm almost there! I received the Wilsonart laminate (English Oak) from Lowes on Friday.

View attachment 785446

and laminated the top. It turned out well.

View attachment 785447


View attachment 785448
I also used rexus31 and muskyed suggestion to apply the carpet with carpet tape in the cans. Seems like it is holding well so far. I'll get a photo with the carpet installed at a later point.

The only thing I still have to work on is the timer switch/ plate cover. After a lot of thought, I've decided to buy the oak switch plate, stain it to match the case and then use a wood burner to burn in the timer minute markings, then apply the polycoat. I'll spray-paint the white knob with a matching color. It's not a high wear and tear application so it should hold up.

Someone mentioned a glass dispenser for the isopropyl alcohol/Aramith ball cleaner solution they found on line. Any help/ideas where to source one would be greatly appreciated.
Did you go with this timer?

Tork Spring-Wound Timer, Range 0 to 30 min. A530M | Zoro

Why the need to burn in timer markings on the switch plate when they are on the timer?

Here's the 0-15 minute version. I think it's got that perfect vintage look and no need to paint it.

 
Alright Scott, you guilted me into getting the new older looking timer;);););). Depending on how brownish the almond color looks I may just go stock with its cover or may get the oak plate.
 
Don't use hot glue! Carpet tape or, a spray glue sprayed on one surface only, can be peeled off then.
I have switched my carpet from what I was using, pieces cut from 2x2 carpet squares to an indoor/outdoor carpet from menards. Much softer texture and gives a more polished look. Also was extremely cheap, came on a roll 6' wide and I think I got a 3' piece. So 18 sq feet for about $20. No more cleaning the carpet, just throw it out and put new stuff on.
I was thinking the same thing.. sooner or later your going to want to change That carpet and hot glue would be a mess.
 
Alright Scott, you guilted me into getting the new older looking timer;);););). Depending on how brownish the almond color looks I may just go stock with its cover or may get the oak plate.
You‘ve come this far, you may as well go all the way! LOL!
 
In the apparently never ending build I noticed that the second platter is spinning a bit slower than the first. Even though the online pulley/belt calculators said that a 30” belt with 1.5”pulleys should be 12.645” (which it is) there is enough play in the belt that it is slipping. I ordered a 29.5” and a 29” belt and will see if one of them corrects the slippage. If not I’ll have to order larger diameter pulleys to increase the length of contact between belt/pulley to create more friction for less slippage.
 
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