Antique table play

Is the pocket on the Centurion just a regular drop pocket? If it is that guy is a Jackass. I looked at the table on a website and it looked like a cheapo w/ cheapo pockets. I could be wrong?
 
the centurion/metro/gold crown all have different pocket castings, but they all use the same rubber large capacity drop pocket with a hole molded into each side to attach them. it's been a while but if i remember correctly, the centennial's castings dont have a threaded boss to accept those pockets and if not i think the nicer leather style drop pocket for the artisan/mission/montebello would work just fine.
 
Poolschool said:
I have seen slate up to 2" thick used for pool tables. Commercial snooker and carom tables usually have thicker slate than american pool tables. The process of mining slate today is more efficient then it was in the late 1800's. Therefore, the surface is more precise and diamond honed to stay within tolerance. Your table probably has slate from Vermont or some other state. Not necesarily the worlds best slate but obviously good enough if the table is 100 years old. The slate on your table is probably 1 5/8". That was a typical measurement for slate in those days. Interesting to hear your grandpa converting a carom table to a pool table. That surely took alot of time and hard work. Is your table a Wellington?
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It is a Bruns Pfister, 6 leg model
From the 1898 Brunswick-Balke-Collender Co. catalog #2772, page 8:

Absolute perfection in the manufacture of billiard and pool tables has been attained in the production of our Pfister style of tables with six legs. In many essential features the improvements embodied in this table are very marked and add considerably to the enjoyment of this, the greatest of all indoor games or amusements.

In the construction of these tables nothing is left undone that could possibly be of any benefit in producing a perfect billiard table. They are, when so ordered, fitted with extra heavy slate, 1 1/2" thick, doweled. This does away with the screw holes on the surface of the bed such as is found in the case of tables fitted with slates not doweled. The frame work or body of the table is made extra heavy and strong, as are also the cushion rails. Additional bolts in the rails aid in keeping them firm and rigid. These improvements, in conjunction with the six legs with which the tables are fitted, combine in producing an exceptionally solid and substantial billiard table. Players obtain better results on tables of this construction than those of ordinary make.

The outfit we furnish with these tables, such as cushions, cloth, balls, cues, etc., is naturally the very best the markets of the world afford. We make these tables in Antique Oak as well as in Mahogany, but they can be made of any wood to suit the taste of the purchaser.

Furnished in either carom or pool or as both combined in what is termed combination. Carried in stock in 5x10 only, but can be made to order in a larger size fro the English games, if desired.


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From the 1908-1909 Brunswick Balke Collender Co. catalog:

For the 1 1/2" slate version, the weight increases to 2100 pounds.

The premier of billiard tables, produced under 18 construction patents awarded from 1892 to 1905

Absolute perfection in the manufacture of billiard and pool tables has been attained in the production of our Pfister style of tables with six legs. In many essential features the improvements embodied in this table are very marked and add considerably to the enjoyment of this, the greatest of all indoor games or amusements.

The slate bed is best quality Vermont one in thick, the sections being joined with brass dowels and sockets. No screw holes on the playing surface. Can be furnished with slate 1/2" in thickness where desired, at a small advance in cost.

The cushions are the celebrated quick acting Monarch, guaranteed the most perfect angle cushion in the world. Used by all professional players in America and Europe.

The cushion rails are of extra heavy construction and firmly bolted to the slate bed. In all of our high grade tables, what is termed a "blind cushion rail" is made use of, that is the bolts holding the cushion rails to the slate bed are concealed by woodwork. This eliminates the cheap appearing ornamental bolt caps and gives greater weight to the cushion rail, which means better results from the cushions. The cushion rail tops are veneered with rosewood, which does not change color, cannot be easily disfigured with lighted cigars and does not have the objectional features of a varnish finish.

Players obtain better results on tables of this construction than those of ordinary make. The outfit we furnish with these, such as cloth, balls, cues, etc., etc., is naturally the very best the markets of the world afford. We make these tables in golden oak as well as in mahogany, but they can be made of any wood to suit the taste of the purchaser.

Furnished as either carom or pool or both combined in what is termed combination. Carried in stock in 5x10 only, but can be made to order in larger size for the English games, if desired. Framework built in sections that can be taken apart for shipment. Corner joints reinforced by heavy iron bolts.


I found this description on Brunswick's web site. I could not figure out how to paste the pic in here go to their site if interested. There is a broke bolt in one of the sides broken off near the end. The bolt is still in there. The rail sounds a little funny when a ball hits it hits just right. It plays ok all things considered.
 
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Poolschool said:
I apologize. I must have misconstrude what you said about the wood under the rails. I thought you were refering to wood behind the cushion. I understand and appreciate your concern for others. There have been alot of people that have gotten burnt...pianos, pool tables and just about any type of service work. Knowledge is the key, so thanks for taking the time to share. I still thinkthe pro player thing was funny. What kind of table do you have (50 yr old?)
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I wasn't very clear, no apology necessay. My table is a Victor. I'm trying to find out how old it is exactly, it may not be as old as I said, I don't know, but it has side bolt rails that do play great. I put 3 soft rubber shims under the hard pocket facings on all the pockets (4" outside measurement) and I love the way it plays. I didn't anticipate how hard it would be to cut them at the right angle, or that the cloth pulls them back more than the rail rubber, so I screwed the first two up a little. Is that how the "pros" do it or is that a trade secret like Imshara's aiming thing?

I'd never make money doing tables for a living, that crap takes me absolutely forever.

unknownpro
 
the easiest way to learn is to cut off all four factory cuts from a factory installed cushion and use them to transfer the correct angles or make a jig to do the same.make sure your cushion adheiseve is 100% cured before you try to cut it. when you cut them use one of those 3 or 4 in. disosable razor blade knifes,and be sure to dip it in water to use as a lubricant for the cut. its like a hot knife thru butter feel versus a vicious sawing motion. secure the facing to the end of the cushion so that it overlaps slightly and make sure it is 100% cured before you try to cut it to the exact shape of the cushion. as vivian would say"you can do it". :D
 
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