any one no a good way to move a pole???

Paul Mon said:
I was able to remove the pole by adding another support beam. The existing poles in my basement were about 9' apart. The existing beam was a 5" x 8' (18) meaning it weighed 18 lb./foot. The new beam was 5" x 8" (21), it deflected much less than the original. I used a jack to slowly raise the new beam into place. The new beam is about 18' long and was supported at each end with poles that shared the footer with existing poles. I did not break through the slab and set the new poles directly on the existing footer. They are sitting right on the slab. I did drill and pin them in place, but don't believe that this is really necessary. Before starting any work I measured and cut a 2 x 4 to the exact height between the floor and the existing beam, in the spot where the pole was to be removed. My intention was to make sure that the existing beam did not change location (vertically) when the job was completed. With the new beam in place and the new adjustable poles at each end I slowly cut the middle pole and as the old beam started to slowly drop I would raise the new beam to compensate. Obviously I had a couple guys helping me with this part. One thing that I anticipated was that the new beam would bow due to the increased length between supports. I placed wooden shims (pieces of shingle) between the beam and the floor joists, 1/2" shims in the middle and less thick as they got closer to the support poles.
I got the height of the existing beam within 1/8" of its original location. I was very hesitant to try this put refused to put a pool table in a location that had any obstructions. I had seen this modification done one other time with the same result and that helped my confidence. I had recently remodeled the kitchen, which is right above where the pole was removed. There are no cracks in tile or walls. Additionally, I live in upstate NY and we get our fair share of snow in the winter. The pitch on my roof is fairly flat and snow does accumulate up there. After seven winters there has been no settling or shifting. IMO, the support is probably stronger now than before. When I was all done I boxed in both of the poles and one of them makes a little wall jutting out into the room. This made a little alcove for a sitting area on one side and a place for the dartboard on the other. The hardest part of the entire job was getting the beam through the basement window and into place.

Here's a link to some photos of the completed room: http://www.webshots.com/search?new=1&source=homesearch&query=paul+mon+pool+room


Paul Mon
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hey guys thanks for the help i am going to have 4 guys help me out.
 
Donald A. Purdy said:
There is a concret footing under where the pole is sitting now. If the beam is sitting on top of your foundation, it will probably support the weight with a little bow. If you weld a piece of chanel to the existing beam, it will eliminate the slight bow. I don't know what sice I beam the poles support. I would hire an engineer and take his advice. This is what I did after removing a pole. Cost me about $1,000 for his input. I haven't added the chanel yet. I have a very small crack in one wall from the bow. Hasn't moved since 1999. I am going to follow the engineers suggestion soon.
Purdman :cool:
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Was that pole right in the middle of your "garden"? ;)
 
sizl said:
Was that pole right in the middle of your "garden"? ;)
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NO! My garden is in the back yard. Where is yours? I like your avatar by the way. Where are you from?
Purdman ;)

Oh, I looked back and see you are from Houston. Isn't that the SWAG capitol of the world?
 
Matthew:

I had a contractor do mine. He used the load/span charts of the beam manufacturer. Didn't want to do a steel I-beam unless we got an engineer involved, but was willing to supplement my existing main beam (3 2x12's bolted together - pretty common in the early fifties) with a glu-lam beam. Being conservative, he used a beam that could handle the span we needed on its own - but he lag-bolted it to the existing beam also. It goes from a load bearing outside wall to an original brick column, with one steel lolly column (the one we moved) in between. He did break through the concrete floor and pour a new footing for the new column location. Preferred wood because he said steel will sometimes deflect from just its own weight. Google Glu Lam and you'll see what I'm talking about - I think the one he used is appx 5"-6" wide and about 16" deep. No short cue for me. Cost was about $3600 all in (including new wallboard to cover the beam). Good luck.

Adios,

Pizza Bob
 
A very wealthy person in my old neighborhood paid a huge sum of money to have the size of a boxed-in pole hole cut out of the slate, so that the pole went through the middle of the table. Maybe he had alzheimers, but you can always do that, then go play in traffic.
 
A lot of the time these poles can be removed and a support jack put in their place. You should definitely talk to a few contractors/engineers before doing anything. But often the poles are closer together than they have to be and can be moved a few feet without causing any problems. Also, the size and type of beams needs to be considered. Like I said, talk to some pros first (as well as your insurance agent). But it can be done. I moved mine and put in a support jack. I've never had any problems.
 
Report

There was an 8 x 18 steel beam with four spans. Now there are three spans. Here is what the engineer gave me notorized.

Our analysys indicates that bending stresses and deflections for the above steel beam are within allowable limits. However, we suggest to weld a steel channel (C 8 x 11.5) to the bottom flange of the existing beam to reinforce the beam (above the pool table) between the existing wood post (at the basement wall) and the existing first steel pipe column. The steel channel reinforcement will provide additional stiffness for the floors above.

This cost me $910 for the consulting charges which insures me that everything is OK. I am going to add the channel soon. This was done in 1999.
Hope this helps.
Purdman :cool:
Any comments about moving a pole?
 
matthew staton said:
I am getting a gold crown 4 nine foot table but i have a pole in my way.It will have to go over three feet to make it clear to shoot on does any one no if this would be ok. There is a steel beam it is attached to I was going to have some one jack it up and move a pole suport over three feet the beam it suports is iron and I think that it would not be to bad because the beam is realy strong .Can any one help me out with this or have maybe a internet link thanks.
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I'm no engineer, but it sounds like you don't even need that pole, just throw it out, or better yet, you got a garbage disposal??

Jim
 
I had this done a couple of years ago, and I had it done the right way with an engineer approving the project. The whole thing cost me $1,200 including the I beam and 2 new lolly columns. It took 4 guys 4 hours to do the whole thing.

They nailed 4 16' 2 x 12's together and made a temporary brace, then they knocked out the lolly column in the middle of the room. They placed 2 new lolly columns right next to the walls (so they rested on the perimeter footing for those with footing concerns) and then hoisted the new 16" I-beam into place. They then tied the floor joists to the I-beam and it was done. The best $1,200 I ever spent as I now have a 15' x 20' room large enough for a nine foot table with room to spare. I never did like those 'short sticks'! :)

I have a 2 story colonial and the beam they used was more than enough. I don't have the specific name for the beam but I remember it was a 'wide flange' variety and weighed 40 pounds a foot. I believe the width was 8" and the height was 12". Maybe an 'I-38'?

Greg
 
coastydad said:
I usually just shake my hips really hard.
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rotflmao!!!

With or without the assistance of an engineer?

bmoon.gif
 
There should be a footing under the pole that is at least 12 x 12 x 12 to help spead the load. IF you move the column make sure to cut out the floor that is only 3 1/2" max and put in the footing as described above. If not the column can punch thru the thin concrete.

I have a column and wrapped it with carpet. It very seldom gets in the way. When shooting you can move the ball over, use a shorter cue or use it as a means of defense. No matter what it is there as a hazzard for everyone.
 
Rick S. said:
9 out of 10 times there isn't a footing used. Your asking for trouble if you move it. If anything happens, your insurance will be null and void.

My son has the same problem. He consulted with the contractor, and he said there is NO way to move (not even a little!) the pole. and still maintain structural integrity. They are put there for a reason, to hold up your house.

He gave up on the table idea , and made a home theatre out of the room.

Rick S.
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Uh, let me guess, you are not in the construction business. If you have a verticle support under a buliding it is on a footing. A permit would not be issued without one and an inspector is going to see it is poured.
 
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