Any one tried this in stead of dremel or similar to cut rings ?

Here is a little discussion about using a slitting saw in a grinder :

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?p=956476

BTW, the general description for the unit you linked is a "tool post grinder".

I think it would work fine if the RPMs are appropriate for the cutter, but that might be difficult to do as grinder spindles run quite fast.

Dave
 
Dave,

I think pretty much all of us use these type of setups either with Dremels or
other cutters in our tool posts. It works fine for wood and ring combinations I
have seen at least (Note I have never used this my self).

In the discussion you linked to, they discussed cutting metal rings as far as I
did see (did a very quick run through).

I'm not sure if the machine I linked to have cutting wheels available so it could
be a "no go" but I'll do a search for a cutting blades to match (double check
the ones I received from KJ).

Thanks for the link.

Kent
 
The tool post grinder you linked runs at 6000 rpm. The only issue I see are those discussed in that thread, running the saw blade too fast and burning things up and/or dulling the cutting edges. Check the max rpm on any cutter before spinning it, a precaution you well know.

Dave
 
I believe most of the CMs using my ring-cutter are spinning them with trim routers or the like and they spin 30K. Also, most are 1 hp.
The only limitation on my carbide saws is balance, not RPMs.
 
KJ Cues said:
I believe most of the CMs using my ring-cutter are spinning them with trim routers or the like and they spin 30K. Also, most are 1 hp.
The only limitation on my carbide saws is balance, not RPMs.
Click to expand...

The saw blades from KJ are excellent.
 
will8834 said:
The saw blades from KJ are excellent.
Click to expand...

Jupp, I have several of them and I'm happy with them.

Don't fit that Chinese grinder though since ID is 15cm as I remember and the
one I linked to uses 80x20x10mm discs.

Joey; I have several Dremels and I know the cress, but just for cutting ring's I
thought this might be OK...:embarrassed2:

Happy New Years folks.

K
 
I think everyone agrees but here it goes, In the last year my brother and I have put together 4 different setups for cutting rings, special setup w/just a parting tool, dremel, highend dremel, we would end up burning out the dremels, the parting tool wouldn't cut as thin as I wanted.

So he finaly listened to me, and we got a Die grinder, here is the wierd part, at first it cut ok, not very smooth I was getting kind of upset, 4 different setups and we hadn't accomplished anything, well then I was working on our joining/parting lathe and had to put it in reverse, well I usualy put everything back in forward when I'm done, well this time I forgot, well my brother set up the die grinder to cut some rings, and he started cutting them with the lathe in reverse, and WOW, it cut so smooth, and accurate, he brought me over a .015 16 slot billet ring, which usualy the billets would be broken out, this one was perfect, he then cut 30 more and we only had 1 break. HAPPY DAY I TELL YOU. That was like 6-8 months ago. I still smile about it. Now we really need our D.R.O so we can get them DEAD NUTS. what a nice mistake, get a good Die grinder set up, it's the only way to fly. Imo.
 
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I still use a parting tool for my rings as I could never get the saws to cut as true as I want. I built my own arbors and used a kress spindle and dialed the whole setup in on the lathe and no matter what I did I could not get the rings to come out perfectly flat. They would look ok and if I glued them up they looked ok but, If i layed one on a flat surface and looked under the ring I would always see a small ammount of light on the outter edges. The ones I make with the parting tool are always perfectly flat. I am only reffering to maybe .001- .003 or something like that but I don't want to use them if they are not perfect. I would hate to have a glue line show up after assembly.
I forgot to mention I did debur the center hole after cutting so that was not the cause of the daylight under the ring. I also dialed in everything with a dial indiactor so it was all true to the chuck and the cross slide is moving at a true 90deg to the chuck. I tried all sorts of speeds and rotation direction and could not improve the results past the above.
If anyone has any tips I would be glad to give them a try. Thanks Chris.
 
Chris Byrne said:
I still use a parting tool for my rings as I could never get the saws to cut as true as I want. I built my own arbors and used a kress spindle and dialed the whole setup in on the lathe and no matter what I did I could not get the rings to come out perfectly flat. They would look ok and if I glued them up they looked ok but, If i layed one on a flat surface and looked under the ring I would always see a small ammount of light on the outter edges. The ones I make with the parting tool are always perfectly flat. I am only reffering to maybe .001- .003 or something like that but I don't want to use them if they are not perfect. I would hate to have a glue line show up after assembly.
I forgot to mention I did debur the center hole after cutting so that was not the cause of the daylight under the ring. I also dialed in everything with a dial indiactor so it was all true to the chuck and the cross slide is moving at a true 90deg to the chuck. I tried all sorts of speeds and rotation direction and could not improve the results past the above.
If anyone has any tips I would be glad to give them a try. Thanks Chris.
Click to expand...

Chris;
I'm for sure no expert in this topic, I have never done the operation but here
is some thoughts on you're problem.

As mentioned earlier in this post by DaveK with his link-doing this on metal has given the boys doing so problems.
This was tied up to clogging of wheels etc. In metal I would for sure see problems with heat building up and the like.

In our world we work with wood and any composite's/"plastics" in combinations.
I was just thinking on my CNC work and the feeds & speeds issues I have
to consider doing work.
Have you tried different combinations of RPM's on you're lathe/cutter
combo to see if you could get rid of any potential heat build up and in
case changes is cutting equipment ?

I have made stuff with my CNC using 2 flute endmills and "plexiglass" and if
you do the wrong feed/speed combo you end up with a lot of heat build up
and the end mills get hot. If this happens in the cutting of the rings you're
saw blade could deflect and cause a uneven cut - non flat ring..

It was just an idea and it could be that I'm correlating two different problems :embarrassed2:

Anyway, if you have a small amount of light passing through, I guess a
quick sanding on a perfectly flat surface with some small grit paper would
work? Or du you cut and never sand (to scratch up the surface to get the
glue work perfect) ?

Just some thoughts...
K
 
I have tried all diffrent speeds on the cutter, lathe, feedrate ect.. I have run the lathe in forward and reverse too. As for sanding, yes a slight sanding would true up the surface but, If it is not flat to begin with it is not right. When I machine rings with my parting tool they are perfect every time and require no sanding at all. The wood does not need sanding before glueing because the pores are open and not "polished" looking on the faces. The only prep I do is debur the center hole to make sure there are no wiskers left from when the ring separates from the ring stock. I custom grind my parting tool on a 2000grit diamond wheel so it is very sharp and the sides do not rub the ring as I am cutting.
The ones I made when trying live tooling were plenty usable but I am too anal about the fit of things. If two mating surfaces are not perfectly parellel to eachother after machining then they are un acceptable. I have been using the parting tool since I started building cues and it works fine for me. I was just hoping to use the live tooling for specific operations and possibly set up a dedicated ring lathe.
I have tried everything I could think of to get the cut perfect but, I cant get it just right. It is 99% but just not perfect.
 
Chris Byrne said:
I still use a parting tool for my rings as I could never get the saws to cut as true as I want. I built my own arbors and used a kress spindle and dialed the whole setup in on the lathe and no matter what I did I could not get the rings to come out perfectly flat. They would look ok and if I glued them up they looked ok but, If i layed one on a flat surface and looked under the ring I would always see a small ammount of light on the outter edges. The ones I make with the parting tool are always perfectly flat. I am only reffering to maybe .001- .003 or something like that but I don't want to use them if they are not perfect. I would hate to have a glue line show up after assembly.
I forgot to mention I did debur the center hole after cutting so that was not the cause of the daylight under the ring. I also dialed in everything with a dial indiactor so it was all true to the chuck and the cross slide is moving at a true 90deg to the chuck. I tried all sorts of speeds and rotation direction and could not improve the results past the above.
If anyone has any tips I would be glad to give them a try. Thanks Chris.
Click to expand...

Chris,
When using 'live' tooling, are you using a HSS saw or carbide?
HSS will flex whereas carbide won't. It sounds as though your saw is deflecting slightly as it enters the work.

If you're content with the parting tool then carry-on.
What is the thickness of the blade?
The carbide saw is .035".
 
Hey KJ. I have both. I will give it another go after the super billiard expo in march when I have more time to mess around.
I guess what I was asking is does everyone have to sand their rings when cut with the saw? I am not talking much but just a smidge.
 
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