anyone else have glazing issues with PRECISION LAYERED TIPS (SEARING)

Leather is a natural material and each piece can vary from one to another within a predetermined range. Each piece of leather can reach diffferent to what ever element to which it is introduced. As example in dying leather there is an acceptable range of a color, in synthetic it is easy.

I suspect you got a tip tat did not react properly and it probably should not have been shipped...a factory defect so to speak.

Dennis lives close to you and I am sure would appreciate the input. It would be worth the call or better, meeting. I know Dennis wants perfection and would appreciate the input.

Good luck Larry
 
I tried a Medium and I find it is too hard for my REVO shaft. One day Dennis will have each tip numbered to the degree of hardness. The one I used must have been on the higher side of the range of medium.

JoeyA

bbb said:
here is my experience
the medium is more medium hard
the soft is alittle firmer than a g2 soft
initially the soft was incredible
very easy to draw and spin
very little mushrooming
held chalk well
i thought
this could be my new tip
But after 10-15 hours of play i am getting glazing and miscues requiring lots of looking at the tip to see if it needs scuffing
a miscue cost me a game the other day
i am switching back to g2
anyone else have a similar or not experince after some use with this tip??
Click to expand...
 
I thought they glazed quickly as well. Good tips but they all felt a little too spongy and not enough springy. I also had to retrim mushrooming 3 times on a medium.

It's all preference obviously but I like the "Thoroughbred" tips from blue grass a lot more, specifically the medium.
 
bbb said:
here is my experience
the medium is more medium hard
the soft is alittle firmer than a g2 soft
initially the soft was incredible
very easy to draw and spin
very little mushrooming
held chalk well
i thought
this could be my new tip
But after 10-15 hours of play i am getting glazing and miscues requiring lots of looking at the tip to see if it needs scuffing
a miscue cost me a game the other day
i am switching back to g2
anyone else have a similar or not experince after some use with this tip??
Click to expand...

Why have we as pool players abandoned tip tools, tip tappers and plain old 100 or 60 grit sand paper to keep the tips maintained to hold chalk? We will pay $40 to have a single tip installed and expect not to have to do any basic maintenance at all. It's amazing anyone can run 3 balls today.
 
dr9ball said:
Why have we as pool players abandoned tip tools, tip tappers and plain old 100 or 60 grit sand paper to keep the tips maintained to hold chalk? We will pay $40 to have a single tip installed and expect not to have to do any basic maintenance at all. It's amazing anyone can run 3 balls today.
Click to expand...

Great point and option 2. Something so simple as using a quarter to clean up the chalk. A couple of twist and fresh chalk.
 
You said you practice @ 15hr durations?
I can't remember being at a table for more than , maybe 9hrs.
Doesn't your back get a little sore , or maybe your step laggs a little.
15hrs , no wonder the tip is complaining.
 
dr9ball said:
Why have we as pool players abandoned tip tools, tip tappers and plain old 100 or 60 grit sand paper to keep the tips maintained to hold chalk? We will pay $40 to have a single tip installed and expect not to have to do any basic maintenance at all. It's amazing anyone can run 3 balls today.
Click to expand...

I agree that players need to tend to their equipment to keep it functioning optimally. I chalk between each shot and examine the tip to ensure even coverage. It is good for the equipment and the break in my shooting routine is good for my game. But since switching most of my cues to layered tips, I have had poor experiences with tip tappers, tip tools that sand tips (similar to Willard's), and sandpaper. With extended use, even hard tips smash a bit, which means that the individual layers become thinner. Tools that sand off leather as a means of creating a rough surface for chalk eventually wear off the outer layer. When they layers get very thin and small in diameter, they tend to delaminate leaving a flat spot in the middle. All of the remaining layers are also thinner than originally installed and that has kept me from successfully reshaping the tip to my desired nickel radius. As I get close to the nickel, the next layer delaminates. Kamui, Morakami, and others sell Gator tools that have worked very well for me. They rough the surface with minimal/no leather removal. I condition my tips at the beginning of a session and that is good enough. Since switching to a Gator tool, I have found they work equally well for maintaining single layer tips.

When I use single layer tips, I have the shaft retipped as the side of the tip reaches the width of a dime. I have never gotten a layered tip to last to that amount because delamination becomes a problem before that. Fortunately, with proper care, a hard layered tip lasts much longer than I have ever seen with a single layer tip.
 
Mine has glazed over a little, but I just scuff it with a willards when I notice it. Still one of the better tips I've played.
 
Best Tip Around!

I love these tips, and most of my friends plat with them now as well.
one of them did have a glazing problem on one of the upper layers, like maybe some glue got in or something, but other then that they play great!
Especially with Toam Chalk or G2 Chalk!
 
Michael Webb said:
After 6 weeks of playing with the Precision. Not one miscue or issue. I haven't done anything to it at all. Just play.
Click to expand...

Ditto..... after initial slight mushroom, absolutely no problem with any sort of glazing.
I'm using only Hard's. I love these tips. I've had one one my player for at least 3 mo.

Just about ready to replace it.

Just curious, what chalk are you using bbb....?
 
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