Anyone tried CJ's TIPS banking system?

CJ Wiley said:
Yes, the TIP System works on any size table, the only difference is the distance relative to the TIP Target. Since you have less distance you must use slightly more TIP.

One a 9' Table a cross side bank One TIp equals One Diamond. One a Bar Table a Diamond would equal 1.25 TIPS..... remember, less distance requires more TIP to get the same results.

Glad you liked the DVD, let me know if you have any specific questions.
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AHA! That's why my home, standard 8-foot table is banking slightly short compared to the other tables I'm playing on.

And my learning curve continues.
 
TIPS Banking System

I have found that CJs TIPS banking system is extremely accurate. I have been using since i recieved his dvd last week. It only took me a few tries to get the speed of the shot down to make the bank shots. I have a 7 foot table with Mercury Ultra fast cloth and accurate rails so the system does allow me to repeat the shots. I am curious if some of you other pool players have used the system on different tables ie 9 foot or even an 8 foot table? If so did you find that you are able to use the same stroke and speed to execute the bank shots?

RackRunner89
 
I ask Jack Cooney how he banked in Morristown Tenn. one time

fathomblue said:
AHA! That's why my home, standard 8-foot table is banking slightly short compared to the other tables I'm playing on.

And my learning curve continues.
Click to expand...

When you start understanding how to aim with your TIP it won't matter the size of the table, although when playing on Diamond tables everything banks a half diamond/diamond short, so you simply add a half/whole tip to the equation.

I ask Jack Cooney how he banked in Morristown Tenn. one time and he said "with my tip" and it took me a few years to understand how this was possible.....it's almost like "cheating". :thumbup:
 
Kicking with the TIPs system

Mr. Wiley,

How can we use this TIPs banking system for kicking balls accurately? Or is this your next dvd. I do remember in your previous dvd you mentioned a half tip english will bring the cue ball back one diamond for a long rail kick and one full tip of english for a half table kick. I am just curious if you can shed any light on kicking balls accurately for me.

Best Regards,

RackRunner89
 
you MUST practice without an object ball to get the precise feedback,

Rackrunner89 said:
Mr. Wiley,

How can we use this TIPs banking system for kicking balls accurately? Or is this your next dvd. I do remember in your previous dvd you mentioned a half tip english will bring the cue ball back one diamond for a long rail kick and one full tip of english for a half table kick. I am just curious if you can shed any light on kicking balls accurately for me.

Best Regards,

RackRunner89
Click to expand...

The drill I show in the Banking Secrets is the best one I know for kicking and banking.

To understand spin and how it coorisponds to the diamonds you have to match how far you go over on the cue ball (using "tips") to how much angle you're creating off the rail. The cool thing is, as I show in the video ONE tip is equal to ONE diamond going cross corner and when going length of the table it's HALF a tip is equal to ONE diamond.

Practice this drill 20 minutes a day for three days and you will quickly see how much your kicking, banking and safety play improves. I'm not a big fan of doing "drills," however to understand spin you MUST practice without an object ball to get the precise feedback, and the drill has on side effect.....your kicking will drastically improve in just a matter of hours, and you can take this "to the BANKS". :thumbup:
 
Try aligning an 8 or 9' shot Center/Center on VERY thin cuts

rubell said:
CJ. Thanks for the explanation .In my case I did not mean to put the balls close. I just would like to understand how to turn the cue, like in A or like in B? I guess the same will apply for center to center and center to edge.
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One important factor in the TOI and the TIP Banking methods is the alignment when the balls are close together is usually Center to Edge. On the other hand, when the balls are over a half table apart they tend to be Center to Center, and if they are "full table" it's Center to Center EVEN IF IT"S A VERY THIN CUT.

Try aligning an 8 or 9' shot Center/Center, then go down on the ball switching to the edge and you will be able to "Feel" the edge of the ball. You can't do this when aligned Center/Edge, and I can show why on the table, but it's too difficult to explain. Only your experience with the game can give you this knowledge, it took me awhile to "real eyes" it when I was in the beginning of my professional career. 'The Game is the Teacher'
 
CJ Wiley said:
One important factor in the TOI and the TIP Banking methods is the alignment when the balls are close together is usually Center to Edge. On the other hand, when the balls are over a half table apart they tend to be Center to Center, and if they are "full table" it's Center to Center EVEN IF IT"S A VERY THIN CUT.

Try aligning an 8 or 9' shot Center/Center, then go down on the ball switching to the edge and you will be able to "Feel" the edge of the ball. You can't do this when aligned Center/Edge, and I can show why on the table, but it's too difficult to explain. Only your experience with the game can give you this knowledge, it took me awhile to "real eyes" it when I was in the beginning of my professional career. 'The Game is the Teacher'
Click to expand...
Thank you, CJ. I will try it.

So far I was able to practice the aiming method (which I think corresponds to the "B" on my diagram) in the Ultimate Pool Secrets videos and tried to incorporate other principles explained there. I suspect it is a prerequisite to your banking system.

So far it worked very well for me. After a week of exercise sessions or so I can probably pocket with around 80%-90% success rate any ball (cue and object balls not on rail) within 5-6 feet from the cue ball and cut angle probably up to 70 degrees or so. So now when I play I start thinking where to put my cue ball and how to prepare my next shot, not just how to pocket it.

Previously my success rate within this range was about 20%-40% or so and I was never in the position of planing my next move because pocketing a ball would be successful itself. The most difficult shots for me are across the table where I tend to over-cut (actually I tend to miss the ball aiming center-to-edge), so I will try to aim center-to-center like you explained and see how it goes.

What I do, instead of memorizing number of tips, I memorize the geometry: cue ball - object ball - target pocket - the far rail that goes out of the pocket and try to connect to the spot I need to hit the cue ball in and the force I need to apply, which I get from internal feeling (I use 3 strengths - soft, specially for side pockets and when I need to control the cue ball, hard - my default stroke, and extra hard if I need to bounce the cue ball some extra rails).

What works the best for me is not to think at all. The last time I played with someone I caught myself pocketing 4 balls in the row and I even do not remember how I did it, I just hit the ball and was able to succeed with where to place my cue ball next and did it 4 times in the row. Once I started analyzing what to do next I missed pocketing my 5th ball.

Thanks again,
Nick
 
Mr. Wiley
I appreciate all of your great advice. One thing i taught myself like 30 years ago is, if i wanted to kick the cue ball back at me say on a 30 degree angle, i would it the cue ball 30 degrees off center and it seemed to work well, once you learned the speed of the shot. Have you ever tried this?

rackrunner89
 
connect the cue ball (inner game) to the object ball (outer game)

rubell said:
Thank you, CJ. I will try it.

So far I was able to practice the aiming method (which I think corresponds to the "B" on my diagram) in the Ultimate Pool Secrets videos and tried to incorporate other principles explained there. I suspect it is a prerequisite to your banking system.

So far it worked very well for me. After a week of exercise sessions or so I can probably pocket with around 80%-90% success rate any ball (cue and object balls not on rail) within 5-6 feet from the cue ball and cut angle probably up to 70 degrees or so. So now when I play I start thinking where to put my cue ball and how to prepare my next shot, not just how to pocket it.

Previously my success rate within this range was about 20%-40% or so and I was never in the position of planing my next move because pocketing a ball would be successful itself. The most difficult shots for me are across the table where I tend to over-cut (actually I tend to miss the ball aiming center-to-edge), so I will try to aim center-to-center like you explained and see how it goes.

What I do, instead of memorizing number of tips, I memorize the geometry: cue ball - object ball - target pocket - the far rail that goes out of the pocket and try to connect to the spot I need to hit the cue ball in and the force I need to apply, which I get from internal feeling (I use 3 strengths - soft, specially for side pockets and when I need to control the cue ball, hard - my default stroke, and extra hard if I need to bounce the cue ball some extra rails).

What works the best for me is not to think at all. The last time I played with someone I caught myself pocketing 4 balls in the row and I even do not remember how I did it, I just hit the ball and was able to succeed with where to place my cue ball next and did it 4 times in the row. Once I started analyzing what to do next I missed pocketing my 5th ball.

Thanks again,
Nick
Click to expand...

Yes, the goal is to reach the "no thinking zone," however, we all have to go through some mental turmoil (at times) to get there. The systems I show are a way to reach that zone, and determine your own way of developing touch, instinct and feel for pocket and ultimately the entire game. First we must have reference points and the TIP is the best way I know to connect the cue ball (inner game) to the object ball (outer game).

The challenges you are going through is normal and I have and will continue to go through similar experiences and my own level of play. My game's coming back, but it's taken MUCH more time and mental effort than the first time, mostly because I'm documenting so much of it and refuse to go totally unconscious until my basics are better than they were before.

Play Well, Nick, the game will continue to teach you and I"m always available to answer questions at thegameistheteacher@gmail.com - Aloha
 
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