Are Jump/Break Cues good enough?

I am still debating this question myself! I realized I can't jump with light jump shafts, so dedicated mainstream jumpers are not for me. I do have both Mezz breakers (PB1 and 2), and while they work fantastic, I am thinking I might be ok with a J/B and save the extra space on my case.

The higher end dedicated jump cues actually tend to be very front heavy as opposed to ultralight. I think it affords more control over speed.
 
It boils down to this... we all have a nose & an opinion.

The reasons given come from every direction. If however the opinions came from highly skilled players, with no budget restraints, would the opinions vary as much.... I personally doubt it.
 
I can tell you I've owned a Predator Air, and I currently have a Dr. Popper (more for fun) for dedicated jump cues. I sold the Air and I don't use the Popper unless I feel like hopping over a ball a chalk's distance or less for amusement.

I have not sold my 3pc Players with one piece ferrule/tip that might be 1/2" total. It's incredible. Breaks great, took the weight out so it weighs maybe 17oz. Jumps with the best of them. I can sky over balls effortlessly. It's harder to jump on a bar table(thinner slate) but it can done relatively easily. Thicker slate is almost too easy.

The Air was quite disappointing unless I used a dart stroke, and I hate doing that. It also seemed flawed in up close jumping. If you are a rack's distance away it's all good, but anything closer gave me trouble. I don't know why I had trouble. I could setup the same exact shots and pocket balls jumping easy with the Players, then use the Air and change nothing but the cue and couldn't do it. I don't know if I needed to learn that cue or what, but I gave up on it.

I was at Fast Break doing a tournament and a guy tried to buy my Players off me. $200 cash and I turned it down. He told me a guy stole his a while back and he couldn't find one anymore. I had to keep my eyes on that thing, lol.
 
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it's interesting to see that the feedbacks are so mixed, i was really expecting most of the users going for the dedicated cue for dedicated play argument. I guess going for a jump/break cue isn't that bad of an idea...only set-back is i won't know if i like it till i try it...

Still looking to read more comments though.
 
I can tell you I've owned a Predator Air, and I currently have a Dr. Popper (more for fun) for dedicated jump cues. I sold the Air and I don't use the Popper unless I feel like hopping over a ball a chalk's distance or less for amusement.

I have not sold my 3pc Players with one piece ferrule/tip that might be 1/2" total. It's incredible. Breaks great, took the weight out so it weighs maybe 17oz. Jumps with the best of them. I can sky over balls effortlessly. It's harder to jump on a bar table(thinner slate) but it can done relatively easily. Thicker slate is almost too easy.

The Air was quite disappointing unless I used a dart stroke, and I hate doing that. It also seemed flawed in up close jumping. If you are a rack's distance away it's all good, but anything closer gave me trouble. I don't know why I had trouble. I could setup the same exact shots and pocket balls jumping easy with the Players, then use the Air and change nothing but the cue and couldn't do it. I don't know if I needed to learn that cue or what, but I gave up on it.

I was at Fast Break doing a tournament and a guy tried to buy my Players off me. $200 cash and I turned it down. He told me a guy stole his a while back and he couldn't find one anymore. I had to keep my eyes on that thing, lol.


Actually, I have heard about people having trouble jumping with the Predator Air as well. I tried one out a few times, but didn't like it much because my Black Jack jumps much better for long and close jumps.
 
OK. Here's the bottom line....

There are JBs that are without question "good enough" I've had many that do both perfectly fine. If your looking for simplicity and ease then nothingat all wrong with a good JB.

That being said, if you want the absolute maximum performance from each end of the stick with the acceptance that it will cost you more money and more "space/weight /etc" then there is no JB that can fit every minute specification and intimate desire as 2 seperate purpose built sticks.

That's the answer.

Your welcome. :)
 
Would someone please explain how a dedicated break cue enhances performance? Pechauer, Predator, Gulyassy, and Fury all make dedicated break cues. What makes these cues better for breaking, from an engineering standpoint?
 
OK. Here's the bottom line....

There are JBs that are without question "good enough" I've had many that do both perfectly fine. If your looking for simplicity and ease then nothingat all wrong with a good JB.

That being said, if you want the absolute maximum performance from each end of the stick with the acceptance that it will cost you more money and more "space/weight /etc" then there is no JB that can fit every minute specification and intimate desire as 2 seperate purpose built sticks.

That's the answer.

Your welcome. :)

That pretty much says it all.
 
Would someone please explain how a dedicated break cue enhances performance? Pechauer, Predator, Gulyassy, and Fury all make dedicated break cues. What makes these cues better for breaking, from an engineering standpoint?

Less deflection, more stiffness, less "jumpiness". The tip should be hard, but not ridiculously hard because the break often requires you to hit below center on the cue ball
 
to specify a bit more:

if you want to get the best out of your game and playing tournaments etc- then you need for sure a jump-cue. But as with a player-cue, it just depends on your opinion. Some are lighter, some are heavier. Imo it doesn t really matter if it s from Mezz, Lucasi, Predator or whatever. they re all doing their job.

and for a break cue i always prefer an extremly hard leather tip-like for example samsara-tip. I m no friend of this afp ferrules to break with. weight not more than my player-cue (18 oz) and then im satisfied. Additional i should say that i m not the typical 45 mph breaker. More control is more important for me.

lg
Ingo
 
Less deflection, more stiffness, less "jumpiness". The tip should be hard, but not ridiculously hard because the break often requires you to hit below center on the cue ball

Is there any kind of data that proves any particular break cue construction is better than any regular cue? The question is what makes a break cue better for breaking than any other cue?

Would it be beneficial to now test break cue performance since most people have access to Magic Racks which give a perfectly consistent rack?
 
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