Are rail positions table specific?

seb1899

seb1899

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I asked this in the snooker forum but maybe there are a few mechanics that work on 6 x 12 snooker tables.

I understand the rails on an english snooker table are numbered clock wise from the 'D' end with this rail being 1 and looking down the table at the black spot the left corner to side is 2 and the next side to corner is 3 and the black spot end rail is 4 and the right corner to side is 5 and the right side to corner is 6.

The nap (grain) on the side rails is to follow the nap on the bed cloth which is D end to black spot.

My question is the numbering on the rails table specific ie black spot end rail MUST be 4 or is the numbering just to identify location so the nap is running in the correct direction. If the rails are mounted in incorrect order will it really affect play?

I took the aprons off my table and the rails are not in the correct positions, the ends are opposite and position 6 is occupied by the rail that is identified as 3.

I knew the nap was wrong but I will be recovering next year so is it something I should sort out at recover time or should the rails be in the position the factory intended?

If the numbering is table specific I will ask the table mechanic to come back and position them correctly but if it is just to identify cloth 'nap' direction I will sort it out at recover time. Time is money and I do not want to be a horses ass if it is not necessary structually.:smile:
 
In newer production tables, there really is no difference in the rail layout other then the cloth direction you mentioned. In antique tables there was
more variances in the construction and tables were often hand fitted and
numbered before they left the factory. If not placed properly in antiques,
the rails may not bolt up properly or pocket dimensions may be off. I assume this is not the case with yours and would be up to you as to have
them changed now or later.

As a mechanic, i would want that cloth correct. As a owner, i probably would wait till next trip for service.
 
Thanks scruffy1 The rails bolt up properly and the table plays well except my skill is lacking as I thought I was 'hot stuff' on the 5 x 10 Brunswick Centennial that I traded in for this table.

When I had the Brunswick I would shoot a ball on the 5 ball spot from either the yellow spot or the green spot and I was 8 for 10 trys and now with the 6 x 12 I am about 40% quite a let down. I guess I was looking for a problem that was not me!

I should have paid closer attention when the table was set up but I will when it is recovered so I will not ask the table mechanic to come back as it will not make much diference. Time is $ and it is not his problem

I guess we all look for a 'silver bullet' but it is practice that makes perfect so I will persevere and maybe get new cloth next year.:grin:

Thanks for the response
 
scruffy1 said:
In newer production tables, there really is no difference in the rail layout other then the cloth direction you mentioned. In antique tables there was
more variances in the construction and tables were often hand fitted and
numbered before they left the factory. If not placed properly in antiques,
the rails may not bolt up properly or pocket dimensions may be off. I assume this is not the case with yours and would be up to you as to have
them changed now or later.

As a mechanic, i would want that cloth correct. As a owner, i probably would wait till next trip for service.
Click to expand...

On a snooker table...yes the rails are specific as in the side rails only have one rail sight...foot side rails are not interchangeable with head side rails...because of the location of the rail sights:cool:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top