Ash wood shafts pros and cons.....
- Thread starter PistolPat
- Start date
For playing pool games, nothing else comes close to a select quality, well-tapered hard maple shaft with a good through ferrule and tip.
Martin
Martin
The only Ash con I am aware of is the ugly factor.
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=16471&highlight=Shaft+ash
http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=16471&highlight=Shaft+ash
Wity
Banned
There's no difference in playability between them really, maple naturally tends to be smoother but a good piece of ash with a decent finish on it can be just as smooth. Ash is prefered by most snooker+uk pool players many of whom like to see evenly spaced arrows as they sight down the shaft and they'll pay a premium for such arrows on a tight straight grained piece much the same as pool players will for a high growth ring count. Neither of which makes for a better playing cue though.
Plus sugar maple doesn't grow in England or europe while ash does.
Drawbacks: Ash is opened grained like oak so is hard to fill grain to make a smoother shaft. If you do fill the grain with finish, as our English friend suggests, there will be drag on your closed bridge from this finish. Snooker players use an open bridge so this doesn't bother them. Closed bridge players need a glove or copious amounts of Talc.The dark grain lines distract many players attention while aiming. Ash makes for a stiffer hit than Maple which some players may not be comfortable with.
On the plus side. Ash is stiffer than Maple when the same taper is used which can be a benefit for some players.
Summary: Ash is great if you use an open bridge and want a stiffer hit with your present taper and the prominent grain pattern doesn't bother you or if you want to use an extremely small shaft such as 8 to 10 MM. Otherwise, Maple is hard to beat.
Dick
On the plus side. Ash is stiffer than Maple when the same taper is used which can be a benefit for some players.
Summary: Ash is great if you use an open bridge and want a stiffer hit with your present taper and the prominent grain pattern doesn't bother you or if you want to use an extremely small shaft such as 8 to 10 MM. Otherwise, Maple is hard to beat.
Dick
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Wity
Banned
Not all but i think the majority of English cuemakers opt for American ash rather than English. I've heard a couple of them say they find unifomed grain is more readily available due to the more stable weather as it grows.
Personally i wouldn't thank you for a ash shaft thats had any filler applied, a good cuemaker should be able to select tight straight grained ash that needs no more than fine sanding and an oil finish, preferably raw linseed oil. Anything less than that and its a 2nd grade piece to me even knowing full well grain has very little to do with playabiliy. A good smooth ash shaft when stroked through the bridge feels barely any different to a maple one and unless turned in the bridge against the grain most players blindfolded wouldn't tell one from another.
Unifomed V's which many a cuemaker will charge about £60 extra for dont bother me, although i do like to see one near the tip so that besides the flat in the butt i can if i want play a shot instantly knowing the tip is at the same angle.
Like the other 8 million snooker players in the UK I cant for the life of me understand the use of gloves and talc. Closed or open bridging doesn't come into it you simply have a cue with a smooth finish wipe it down with a cotton towel occasionally and wash your hands or your a ponce whacko jackson fan playing with a varnished or lacqued cheap cue. Walk into any snooker hall in the uk put on a glove and you'd be laughed at by all, get talc out and the gaffer would throw you out instantly unless he doesnt give a monkeys about the cloth on his tables.
Smoothest wood i've ever seen used for a shaft is pearwood. Though rarely used for a shaft when it is you usually find it's steamed pear which givies it a pink colour. Any US cuemakers used it?
Personally i wouldn't thank you for a ash shaft thats had any filler applied, a good cuemaker should be able to select tight straight grained ash that needs no more than fine sanding and an oil finish, preferably raw linseed oil. Anything less than that and its a 2nd grade piece to me even knowing full well grain has very little to do with playabiliy. A good smooth ash shaft when stroked through the bridge feels barely any different to a maple one and unless turned in the bridge against the grain most players blindfolded wouldn't tell one from another.
Unifomed V's which many a cuemaker will charge about £60 extra for dont bother me, although i do like to see one near the tip so that besides the flat in the butt i can if i want play a shot instantly knowing the tip is at the same angle.
Like the other 8 million snooker players in the UK I cant for the life of me understand the use of gloves and talc. Closed or open bridging doesn't come into it you simply have a cue with a smooth finish wipe it down with a cotton towel occasionally and wash your hands or your a ponce whacko jackson fan playing with a varnished or lacqued cheap cue. Walk into any snooker hall in the uk put on a glove and you'd be laughed at by all, get talc out and the gaffer would throw you out instantly unless he doesnt give a monkeys about the cloth on his tables.
Smoothest wood i've ever seen used for a shaft is pearwood. Though rarely used for a shaft when it is you usually find it's steamed pear which givies it a pink colour. Any US cuemakers used it?
Nice explanation.