Not to jump in but why would you ever use any thing except epoxy for ferrules. The only place super glue belongs on a cue is the tip and only in gel form.
Ask The Cuemaker Topic
- Thread starter blud
- Start date
glues
Hi Mike, and others insterested in this subject.
I do use epoxy for the inside of my ferrules, however on the shoulder of the shaft and the threaded face of the ferurule, I sue white glue. By doing this it keeps the glue line of the ferrule from showing. I also use super-glue [ very thin glue]at times for some of my in-lays. The parts and pockets are so tight, epoxy will not work. It's to thick. Works well for me.
blud
Michael Webb said:
Hi Mike, and others insterested in this subject.
I do use epoxy for the inside of my ferrules, however on the shoulder of the shaft and the threaded face of the ferurule, I sue white glue. By doing this it keeps the glue line of the ferrule from showing. I also use super-glue [ very thin glue]at times for some of my in-lays. The parts and pockets are so tight, epoxy will not work. It's to thick. Works well for me.
blud
ferrules
Jon, what scoring means is while the ferruls is chucked up in the lathe, you turn a single point tool towards the face of the ferrule[ the cap or tip end] and lightly touch the cap close to the center hole and then move back and out and repeat this about half way to the outside dia., of the ferrule. Now you will have two very small rings or circles on the face of the ferrule. These will hold glue and help give the tip more bonding surface.
Whoever told you about using super-glue the way you explained, will get you in a world of trouble with those methods.. Most super glues are bonded with in a couple of seconds. Meaning that you would get about half way on with the ferrule, and then it's bonded. Now you would be removing the ferrule re-tapping it and installing a new tenon in the shaft..A lot of work for nothing to be gained by using super-glue. White glue can be used for glueing ferrules. It too will set up before you have time to screw the ferrule all the way down.Using white glue, you got to screw it on with no lost motion, and be very fast doing it.
However, i do not like the bond of white glue on ferrules. For the glue line at the shoulder, it's fine.
blud
BiG_JoN said:
Jon, what scoring means is while the ferruls is chucked up in the lathe, you turn a single point tool towards the face of the ferrule[ the cap or tip end] and lightly touch the cap close to the center hole and then move back and out and repeat this about half way to the outside dia., of the ferrule. Now you will have two very small rings or circles on the face of the ferrule. These will hold glue and help give the tip more bonding surface.
Whoever told you about using super-glue the way you explained, will get you in a world of trouble with those methods.. Most super glues are bonded with in a couple of seconds. Meaning that you would get about half way on with the ferrule, and then it's bonded. Now you would be removing the ferrule re-tapping it and installing a new tenon in the shaft..A lot of work for nothing to be gained by using super-glue. White glue can be used for glueing ferrules. It too will set up before you have time to screw the ferrule all the way down.Using white glue, you got to screw it on with no lost motion, and be very fast doing it.
However, i do not like the bond of white glue on ferrules. For the glue line at the shoulder, it's fine.
blud
Michael Webb said:
Just to let you know, but i didn't use the super glue method, i just quoted something, that somebody else had said, and i never tried it out, as i too thought that it might set before the ferrule was in place, so i never got around to trying. And i can't believe that some people just turn a 1/4" tennon and use yellow glue on threaded ferrules... people like that should be shot, as well as slipping on a thin ferrule on a 3/8" tennon
.
Thanks
Jon
P.S. Mr. Webb, that was no reference to you by the way, just wanted to make sure it wasn't taken as such.
Ah, don't be shocked. I've run across an ACA member's shaft. He did just that.BiG_JoN said:Just to let you know, but i didn't use the super glue method, i just quoted something, that somebody else had said, and i never tried it out, as i too thought that it might set before the ferrule was in place, so i never got around to trying. And i can't believe that some people just turn a 1/4" tennon and use yellow glue on threaded ferrules... people like that should be shot, as well as slipping on a thin ferrule on a 3/8" tennon
Thanks
Jon
P.S. Mr. Webb, that was no reference to you by the way, just wanted to make sure it wasn't taken as such.
You will find ferrules with tenon plugs too. The tenon is glued to the ferrule first, then a hole is created on the shaft and the plug is glued there.
I just saw an expensive cue with the bottom hole not even close to being center of the butt. It looks like the maker drilled by hand to reduce weight. He then plugged it up with a dowel to hide it.
blud said:
Ok, I agree, and the best way I have found to attach the ferrule (without a glue line) is to let the epoxy (devcon 5-min) sit in the ferrule and on the first 3/4 of the ferrule for around 3-4 minutes and then thread it on holding the shaft in one hand, and using a gloved hand on the ferrule, and just wipe the excess glue off, and let it sit (and set) and turn it down flush in a few hours, it works great for me, and best of all no glue line (I put one ferrule on ((was my shaft)) and had a grotesque glue line, and after that, I figured out quick, how to fix that problem
, and also, if I’m not mistaken you use Linen Based Melamine ferrules on your cues, how does that compare to, say, a micarta ferrule (threaded/capped)???Thanks
Jon
How many cuemakers do you think use a thread mill?BiG_JoN said:
Most use that Porper aluminum die that just tears the heck out the wood.
I had a shaft made by a "cuemaker" up in the L.A. area. I just found out the center hole of the ferrule was not even close to center. He hammered the ferrule in.
Oh, this huge cue company. They hammer their joint pins in.
Blud knows which one.
Have you seen lead on the sides of the handles for weight yet?
You will.
omg... things just keep getting worse and worse... don't they??? Even a poor white boy from mayberry like me can grind threads on a tennon...Joseph Cues said:How many cuemakers do you think use a thread mill?
Most use that Porper aluminum die that just tears the heck out the wood.
I had a shaft made by a "cuemaker" up in the L.A. area. I just found out the center hole of the ferrule was not even close to center. He hammered the ferrule in.
Oh, this huge cue company. They hammer their joint pins in.
Blud knows which one.
Have you seen lead on the sides of the handles for weight yet?
You will.
Thanks
Jon
glue lines
HI Jon, do it which ever way works for you. [It ain't broke] Epoxy, will in time shrink, and crap builds up at the glue line. Dark and or blue looking after a while. I like my method. Works for me..But each to his own.
Not a big deal.
blud
BiG_JoN said:Ok, I agree, and the best way I have found to attach the ferrule (without a glue line) is to let the epoxy (devcon 5-min) sit in the ferrule and on the first 3/4 of the ferrule for around 3-4 minutes and then thread it on holding the shaft in one hand, and using a gloved hand on the ferrule, and just wipe the excess glue off, and let it sit (and set) and turn it down flush in a few hours, it works great for me, and best of all no glue line (I put one ferrule on ((was my shaft)) and had a grotesque glue line, and after that, I figured out quick, how to fix that problem
Thanks
Jon
HI Jon, do it which ever way works for you. [It ain't broke] Epoxy, will in time shrink, and crap builds up at the glue line. Dark and or blue looking after a while. I like my method. Works for me..But each to his own.
Not a big deal.
blud
Big Jon
Nothing personal taken. Some ferrule designs such as predator and others require a slip on ferrule. It's part of the design. If changed it affects the way the shaft plays. When in doubt, call the cue maker and ask him. Also 501 white pigment is what we use to mix with epoxy on ferrules.
Nothing personal taken. Some ferrule designs such as predator and others require a slip on ferrule. It's part of the design. If changed it affects the way the shaft plays. When in doubt, call the cue maker and ask him. Also 501 white pigment is what we use to mix with epoxy on ferrules.
Thanks Blud. I've seen some of these flat lams. They look like reject maples to me.blud said:
Thanks for the tip on using glue at the bottom of the ferrule instead of epoxy.
.
Joseph Cues said:
Uhmmmm....at this time, I beg to differ on the flat laminated maple. Laminated maple works great for handles and cores for fronts and handles. Coring a maple handle with another piece of maple IS another great way to go.blud said:
Last edited:
Ted, did you have to say that twice?Ted Harris said:
At least , that is, if I want to be heard!Joseph Cues said:Ted, did you have to say that twice?
I tried turning a flat lam shaft from Schmelke. It appears to be stable this time but it's uglyyyy.
I don't use them in shafts at this time. I may down the road for break cues. Doesn't much really matter what it looks like for a front core or for a handle that is going to be wrapped. Of course, the wood used should still be good, straight grained maple.Joseph Cues said:
differant ways
Hey Teddy my friend,
The flat boards do "Warp". They have a much better chance of waping than those straight grain maple cores do. The maple cores are going at a differant angle and are are cross grain somewhat to the outside [ tube] piece. They are turned at a 90degree to the outter sleeve, [if done right] and are not laying at the same angle as the outer one is.
Think about it. All the grain on all of the laminates are running the same way. Nothing is cross or smi-cross grained for strenght.
This is why plywood is built with cross grains on every sheet. The other thing is it makes the fronts and handles to heavy for me.
At this pont and time, i won't use these flat lams. If they were cross grained or even a pie shape, and were not to heavy, I would consider them down line.
rock-on
blud
Ted Harris said:
Hey Teddy my friend,
The flat boards do "Warp". They have a much better chance of waping than those straight grain maple cores do. The maple cores are going at a differant angle and are are cross grain somewhat to the outside [ tube] piece. They are turned at a 90degree to the outter sleeve, [if done right] and are not laying at the same angle as the outer one is.
Think about it. All the grain on all of the laminates are running the same way. Nothing is cross or smi-cross grained for strenght.
This is why plywood is built with cross grains on every sheet. The other thing is it makes the fronts and handles to heavy for me.
At this pont and time, i won't use these flat lams. If they were cross grained or even a pie shape, and were not to heavy, I would consider them down line.
rock-on
blud
Again, I beg to differ. I use them every day, and have for three years. Currently, I have about 300 of them hanging around on about their 5th or 6th turn. Laminated fronts and handles add another level of stability to cuemkaing. They are at least as stable as non-laminated straight grain maple. They are heavier, but I just compensate with with my selection of materials. I target all of my cues to weigh 19 oz without a weight screw. If a customer requests a different weight during the ordering process, I then manipulate the weight of the handles and fronts to achieve the desired weight. It is nice to be able to make a cue weigh any weight without adding a weight screw.blud said: