Guinea Pig
Blud, If You Need A Guinea Pig For The Ash Cue Let Me Know, I'd Be More Than Happy To Give It A Shot.
Blud, If You Need A Guinea Pig For The Ash Cue Let Me Know, I'd Be More Than Happy To Give It A Shot.
Ask The Cuemaker Topic
- Thread starter blud
- Start date
I don't know if the cuemakers can answer this or not but I'll ask it just the same. I was wondering for you guys that have your shop in your garage or in a building behind the house, do you ever get complaints from the neighbors because of the noise from the machinery or do you do the noisey work during the day and quieter stuff at night? I'm talking about cuemakers in an urban(suburban) area.
shop
At one time, my very first cue shop was 1600Sq.Ft. in my back yard in Houston. I had neighbors real close. None complained. I also built a smoke stack [in my houston shop] that had a forced air squarial cage blower with an external motor to blow the fumes way up. This worked fine. I had a flap on top when not in use, gravity would hold it down. The forced air would open it.I would paint early in the mornings, so no one could smell the paint.
Here on our place [ in west texas], is at the end of the road [we own the road] no one complains about noise, cause they are to far away. They did bitch when the found out we were building 3 homes and our busisness. it wound up in a 2-1/2 year law/suit..... We had 41 deed-restriction filed on us. The dumb asses, lived outside of our meets and bounds. We won, hands down. So now were ass-holes to the neighborhood we have to drive through to get to our place3 miles down the road in the country. We just wave and smile.
blud
Cletus said:
At one time, my very first cue shop was 1600Sq.Ft. in my back yard in Houston. I had neighbors real close. None complained. I also built a smoke stack [in my houston shop] that had a forced air squarial cage blower with an external motor to blow the fumes way up. This worked fine. I had a flap on top when not in use, gravity would hold it down. The forced air would open it.I would paint early in the mornings, so no one could smell the paint.
Here on our place [ in west texas], is at the end of the road [we own the road] no one complains about noise, cause they are to far away. They did bitch when the found out we were building 3 homes and our busisness. it wound up in a 2-1/2 year law/suit..... We had 41 deed-restriction filed on us. The dumb asses, lived outside of our meets and bounds. We won, hands down. So now were ass-holes to the neighborhood we have to drive through to get to our place3 miles down the road in the country. We just wave and smile.
blud
P
Pin
Guest
On Ash shafts:
I saw an ash one-piece (snooker cue) a few weeks ago, for the first time.
It looked a little odd, but they've actually grown on me a lot since then.
The next cue I buy will be a custom job, ash 1 piece, ash from tip to butt, with one ash splice in the bottom with a light blue veneer.
Or maybe a large darker wood splice w/blue veneer, with a smaller ash splice inside it, again a blue veneer.
Looks odd at first, but the style is really growing on me
I saw an ash one-piece (snooker cue) a few weeks ago, for the first time.
It looked a little odd, but they've actually grown on me a lot since then.
The next cue I buy will be a custom job, ash 1 piece, ash from tip to butt, with one ash splice in the bottom with a light blue veneer.
Or maybe a large darker wood splice w/blue veneer, with a smaller ash splice inside it, again a blue veneer.
Looks odd at first, but the style is really growing on me
Cue Specs
BLUD,
THESE ARE THE RINGS FOR THE SHAFTS I WANT TO HAVE BUILT. WILL THEY CHANGE PRICE. AND AS FAR AS MY CUE SPECS GO,RIGHT NOW I AM USING A 59"CUE, A LITTLE LARGER IN THE BUTT(LIKE A BUSHKA), 20.5 OUNCES. COMBO WORKS NICE FOR ME. I WOULD BE HAPPY TO TRY WHATEVER CUE YOU BUILD, IT MAY TAKE ME A FEW RACKS TO ADJUST TO IT, BUT I'VE PLAYED WITH MANY DIFFERENT CUES SO I MAY BE HELPFUL AS FAR AS INPUT ON THE CUE. ARE YOU GOING TO VALLEY FORGE THIS YEAR?
blud said:
BLUD,
THESE ARE THE RINGS FOR THE SHAFTS I WANT TO HAVE BUILT. WILL THEY CHANGE PRICE. AND AS FAR AS MY CUE SPECS GO,RIGHT NOW I AM USING A 59"CUE, A LITTLE LARGER IN THE BUTT(LIKE A BUSHKA), 20.5 OUNCES. COMBO WORKS NICE FOR ME. I WOULD BE HAPPY TO TRY WHATEVER CUE YOU BUILD, IT MAY TAKE ME A FEW RACKS TO ADJUST TO IT, BUT I'VE PLAYED WITH MANY DIFFERENT CUES SO I MAY BE HELPFUL AS FAR AS INPUT ON THE CUE. ARE YOU GOING TO VALLEY FORGE THIS YEAR?
Last edited:
oh, and if again, may i ask, what are the dimensions of what you call a larger butt, in the area of 1.300"? the cue's that i am making for myself will have a joint size of .865" (before finish coats), and butt size of 1.310"...FAST_N_LOOSE said:
is that anywhere close to what you are talking about??? Thanks
Jon
ash
Hey jon, just ordered some new ash shaft wood and butt and handle stock. Stay tuned my friend. Santa's coming soon.
blud
BiG_JoN said:oh, and if again, may i ask, what are the dimensions of what you call a larger butt, in the area of 1.300"? the cue's that i am making for myself will have a joint size of .865" (before finish coats), and butt size of 1.310"...
Thanks
Jon
Hey jon, just ordered some new ash shaft wood and butt and handle stock. Stay tuned my friend. Santa's coming soon.
blud
blud,blud said:
let's have some predictions on how this ash cue will hit/feel/play with your specs??? I'm sure that most snooker cues dimensions and construction are a lot different than an american style pool cue, from what i've seen, most (some??) have small tips (8mm etc.) brass ferrules, brass to brass joints (ugh) ,and some sort of splice in the butt (butterfly, full splice etc.) and most american cues have larger tips (13mm), either ivory, plastic, fiber or thermoset ferrules, wood to wood or steel joints, and either short splice full splice or inlaid butts... it would be interesting to see the difference between the two cues with the exact same specs... and on a side note... doesn't Steve Davis use his brass ferruled (<<<is that a word lol) snooker cue when playing 9-ball???
Thanks
Jon
ash cue
Hi Jon, and fast n loose.
Fast n loose, I will be in VF. booth #2, just inside the main entrance door. Stop by and visit with me.. I look forward to it, sir.....
Jon, the cue will hit very clean, crisp, and deliver the ball pretty straight. I am thinking about inlaying a nice design, not too busy, just something nice and clean looking. I"ll build it about 19oz's., with my long pro-taper, and IVORY ferrules.. This should be a kick-ass cue.
blud
BiG_JoN said:
Hi Jon, and fast n loose.
Fast n loose, I will be in VF. booth #2, just inside the main entrance door. Stop by and visit with me.. I look forward to it, sir.....
Jon, the cue will hit very clean, crisp, and deliver the ball pretty straight. I am thinking about inlaying a nice design, not too busy, just something nice and clean looking. I"ll build it about 19oz's., with my long pro-taper, and IVORY ferrules.. This should be a kick-ass cue.
blud
Cue Dimensions
oh, and if again, may i ask, what are the dimensions of what you call a larger butt, in the area of 1.300"? the cue's that i am making for myself will have a joint size of .865" (before finish coats), and butt size of 1.310"... is that anywhere close to what you are talking about???
Thanks
Jon
JON,
THE DIMENSIONS OF THE CUES I USE, I CAN'T GIVE A NUMBER FOR. I BELIEVE THEY ARE 3/16 LARGER AT THE HANDLE. THE DIAMETER AT THE JOINT IS NORMAL, AFTERMARKET SHAFTS(LIKE PREDATOR) FIT FLUSH WITH MY JOINTS. THE QUESTION WAS ALSO ASKED WHAT KIND OF CUE WAS IN THE PICTURE. IT IS A SKIP WESTON. VERY NICE WORK, AND SEMI-LOCAL TO ME.
BLUD,
I WILL CERTAINLY MAKE SURE I HAVE TIME TO STAND AND TALK WITH YOU AWHILE AT VALLEY FORGE.
oh, and if again, may i ask, what are the dimensions of what you call a larger butt, in the area of 1.300"? the cue's that i am making for myself will have a joint size of .865" (before finish coats), and butt size of 1.310"... is that anywhere close to what you are talking about???
Thanks
Jon
JON,
THE DIMENSIONS OF THE CUES I USE, I CAN'T GIVE A NUMBER FOR. I BELIEVE THEY ARE 3/16 LARGER AT THE HANDLE. THE DIAMETER AT THE JOINT IS NORMAL, AFTERMARKET SHAFTS(LIKE PREDATOR) FIT FLUSH WITH MY JOINTS. THE QUESTION WAS ALSO ASKED WHAT KIND OF CUE WAS IN THE PICTURE. IT IS A SKIP WESTON. VERY NICE WORK, AND SEMI-LOCAL TO ME.
BLUD,
I WILL CERTAINLY MAKE SURE I HAVE TIME TO STAND AND TALK WITH YOU AWHILE AT VALLEY FORGE.
Blud's pin?
> Leonard,is your pin threaded at 11.445 or 11.455 TPI? Is the correct diameter .375,or do you over/undersize it? I am about to start my 3rd quarter of machine shop school,and am about to start making lathe pins and other accesories for cue repair. I have more questions than you are probably willing to answer. My other question here relates to feeds and speeds for machining wood. Do the various species of woods have specific needs as far as cutting speed and cutter material like metals have,or do higher RPM rates equal a better finish? I have several years experience installing tips and ferrules using a 7 x 10 bench lathe,and doing shaft cleanings on a wood lathe I modified,and find higher speeds to produce a better result,but have never cut a shaft or forearm,hence my question. Hopefully these questions will be answered promptly,as I have about 100 more waiting. Thanks in advance,Tommy D.
(This set of questions are intended for Leonard and anyone else with quality input. My questions and subsequent answers will not become a platform for the typical mudslinging and crap that goes on on this and several other forums.)
> Leonard,is your pin threaded at 11.445 or 11.455 TPI? Is the correct diameter .375,or do you over/undersize it? I am about to start my 3rd quarter of machine shop school,and am about to start making lathe pins and other accesories for cue repair. I have more questions than you are probably willing to answer. My other question here relates to feeds and speeds for machining wood. Do the various species of woods have specific needs as far as cutting speed and cutter material like metals have,or do higher RPM rates equal a better finish? I have several years experience installing tips and ferrules using a 7 x 10 bench lathe,and doing shaft cleanings on a wood lathe I modified,and find higher speeds to produce a better result,but have never cut a shaft or forearm,hence my question. Hopefully these questions will be answered promptly,as I have about 100 more waiting. Thanks in advance,Tommy D.
(This set of questions are intended for Leonard and anyone else with quality input. My questions and subsequent answers will not become a platform for the typical mudslinging and crap that goes on on this and several other forums.)
woods
Good morning Tommy,
My pin is .348 in dia. and is 11.455 pitch. For drilling the hole, I use a letter "N" drill bit. I drill a smaller hole than required, then come back and clean bore the hole. Works good for me. Taping takes a lot of practice, and is not as clean as grinding threads. Most cuermakers do tap, because it's the easy way out. My good friend Mike Webb, also bores and then grinds his threads. This is the best way, much cleaner and also is much more accurate.[ no tape run off]..
My pin is not done with single point tooling. If you plan on machining it, you will first have to grind a tool to "fit" my pin. I have my pin "rolled"..These pins have very close tolorances by doing this.
Machining woods, like tenons, turn the lathe fast, and have very sharpe and clean tolling. Machine slow and it will produce a very clean cut. Take your time, don't hurry....
Shafts, handles, front and completed butts, turn them at about 100 RPM's, and have the router turning around 26,000 to 30,000 RPM. And cut the 30" in not less than 6 minutes plus, and this will produce a clean smooth finish, provided you don't "hogg" to much wood per-cut. Another words, take light cuts [not much at a time]..Many cuts.....
Questions, Fire away, I don't mind, some are steping into the real teaching end of my business. I am sure you understand. I surly hope so.
blud
Tommy-D said:
Good morning Tommy,
My pin is .348 in dia. and is 11.455 pitch. For drilling the hole, I use a letter "N" drill bit. I drill a smaller hole than required, then come back and clean bore the hole. Works good for me. Taping takes a lot of practice, and is not as clean as grinding threads. Most cuermakers do tap, because it's the easy way out. My good friend Mike Webb, also bores and then grinds his threads. This is the best way, much cleaner and also is much more accurate.[ no tape run off]..
My pin is not done with single point tooling. If you plan on machining it, you will first have to grind a tool to "fit" my pin. I have my pin "rolled"..These pins have very close tolorances by doing this.
Machining woods, like tenons, turn the lathe fast, and have very sharpe and clean tolling. Machine slow and it will produce a very clean cut. Take your time, don't hurry....
Shafts, handles, front and completed butts, turn them at about 100 RPM's, and have the router turning around 26,000 to 30,000 RPM. And cut the 30" in not less than 6 minutes plus, and this will produce a clean smooth finish, provided you don't "hogg" to much wood per-cut. Another words, take light cuts [not much at a time]..Many cuts.....
Questions, Fire away, I don't mind, some are steping into the real teaching end of my business. I am sure you understand. I surly hope so.
blud
There are a number of players here in Canada been using ash shafts for 9 ball for years.
Guys were having them made for their snooker cues as far back as I can remember.
Having owned a few ash snooker cues myself, my only reservations are, getting a smooth finish and keeping them straight, they seem to have a tendancy to wonder over the years.
I suppose it's all in the process, if you take gradual cuts and let them sit for a good period you should be fine.
Blud's comments around getting good maple just confirms what I have thought all along, most of the old growth is gone.
I once drove 400 miles round trip spent a whole day in a cue store testing cues from a hundred bucks to 5000 and all I can say about that is, you are paying for the artwork. None of these hit worth a dam, shafts were all to light and soft.
Blud has anyone ever tried submerged woods ?
I know they make awsome tonewoods, apparently it was a technique that Stradavarius used in his craft.
thanks
Slasher
Guys were having them made for their snooker cues as far back as I can remember.
Having owned a few ash snooker cues myself, my only reservations are, getting a smooth finish and keeping them straight, they seem to have a tendancy to wonder over the years.
I suppose it's all in the process, if you take gradual cuts and let them sit for a good period you should be fine.
Blud's comments around getting good maple just confirms what I have thought all along, most of the old growth is gone.
I once drove 400 miles round trip spent a whole day in a cue store testing cues from a hundred bucks to 5000 and all I can say about that is, you are paying for the artwork. None of these hit worth a dam, shafts were all to light and soft.
Blud has anyone ever tried submerged woods ?
I know they make awsome tonewoods, apparently it was a technique that Stradavarius used in his craft.
thanks
Slasher
woods
Hi Slasher, yes, a few years back [I forget who] a cuemaker had run across some maple boards or logs that had been underwater for years and years. never heard any more.
With ash, you want have the smooth finish as maple gives. But, if it delivers the ball good, who cares? i do have a couple of tricks to finish the shafts and make them smoother. [don't ask or waiste our time, won't tell no one].
got to keep some things here at home.
blud
Slasher said:
Hi Slasher, yes, a few years back [I forget who] a cuemaker had run across some maple boards or logs that had been underwater for years and years. never heard any more.
With ash, you want have the smooth finish as maple gives. But, if it delivers the ball good, who cares? i do have a couple of tricks to finish the shafts and make them smoother. [don't ask or waiste our time, won't tell no one].
got to keep some things here at home.
blud