Ask The Cuemaker Topic

ash

FAST_N_LOOSE said:
BLUD, HAVE YOU DONE ANYTHING WITH THE ASH CUES,AND SHAFTS SINCE VALLEY FORGE. WE SPOKE FOR A LITTLE WHILE ABOUT IT BUT YOU WERE VERY BUSY, SO I DIDN'T WANT TO BOTHER YOU. JUST CURIOUS. ALSO WOULD DEFLECTION BE MORE OR LESS THAN A MAPLE SHAFT WITH THE SAME FERRULE AND TIP ON IT?
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Got it in the works. Just no time to work on it. Got plenty of cues going. I am backed up for a while. just got back from a long trip, and working hard on a new CNC parts and pocket machine,for my friend Dan Buttler in NH.
Just got another order for a 2-head CNC parts/ pocket/ and saw/lathe machine all in one frame.
Thinking about just making more cues is tough, when your as busy as I am, it's hard to keep up. Building about 45 cues at this writting. Many high ends
going too.plus Grady's new cue also. Need helppppppppppppppppp.
Hey, guys, just talked with Don purdy, he and his wife are coming to see me and janice in about a month. Will be playing plenty one pocket.....if I get time.
blud
 
Welcome back Blud!

Busy as hell ey? :D
Ey Blud, does coring change the way a woods' natural hitting characteristic?
The way I see it, with a maple core thru a front, the cored front is just mainly a sleeve with the 3/4 maple core bearing the joint pins and ajoint fixture.

I guess it would be dfferent if the core aint a through core, maybe from the rear up to an inch or two below the joint collar. What dya think?
 
cores

((VH)) said:
Welcome back Blud!

Busy as hell ey? :D
Ey Blud, does coring change the way a woods' natural hitting characteristic?
The way I see it, with a maple core thru a front, the cored front is just mainly a sleeve with the 3/4 maple core bearing the joint pins and ajoint fixture.

I guess it would be dfferent if the core aint a through core, maybe from the rear up to an inch or two below the joint collar. What dya think?
Click to expand...


Yes, coring part way or all the way, changes the hit or feel of the cue.
I core with straight grain maple dowels. I do not use laminated products. They can curle, real easily, and the amount of glue does two things, adds to much weight, and creats a funny feeling hit.
Not me, no sir, ain't goin there.
blud
 
you guys should take the time and pay the money to go see bluds shop....will amaze you at what kind of machinery he has.......it is out of this world......juston coleman
 
Mike, just wanna know how much effect does it do to the hit. If a front is cored all the way through... where or what gives the cue that certain hit? IMO, it's the core and not the cored front. Enlighten me if you may.

Is the cored front just reduced to an aesthetic function?
 
cores

((VH)) said:
Mike, just wanna know how much effect does it do to the hit. If a front is cored all the way through... where or what gives the cue that certain hit? IMO, it's the core and not the cored front. Enlighten me if you may.

Is the cored front just reduced to an aesthetic function?
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Hey VH,
Hope you don't mind me helping out with your question to Mike?

Any time you core out a front, and or a handle, your changing the hit. I prefer bocote wood for the best hit,in [ my opinion ]. If it gets cored, it's got an entirely differant hit. Any time any wood is distrubded, it changes the hit. Inlays also have an effect on fronts, and the way they hit. [Inlays are not for structial strenght as some think.

Vee points are srtonger than flat bottom points, because you have muilti-layer crossing one another. VEE points do change the hit, of the natural woods. It's not so noticable with flat bottom points, even though it's ever so slight. Differant inlays, also change the feel or hit.

Coring with laminated woods, seems to hit harder than coring with a maple dowel.

Laminates with so much glue, really changes the hit and feel.

Maple front with maple core, [not a laminate core],is no differance in the straight maple, non-cored fronts hit.

blud
 
blud said:
Yes, coring part way or all the way, changes the hit or feel of the cue.
I core with straight grain maple dowels. I do not use laminated products. They can curle, real easily, and the amount of glue does two things, adds to much weight, and creats a funny feeling hit.
Not me, no sir, ain't goin there.
blud
Click to expand...

How are you about the use of laminated woods in the handle? Or at all?
 
If you are going to core then core all the way thru. Alot of cue makers do this so every cue hit's very close to the same. They also do it for stability. I have worked on just about every ones cues in the business and nothing beats aging wood. If you core with out going all the way like you mentioned there is to much chance for air gaps and buzz. So you either core or you don't. I don't think there is a mid point compromise.
 
handles

macguy said:
How are you about the use of laminated woods in the handle? Or at all?
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You got it joey!
Laminated fronts and handles, are crap, in my opinion.. Same thing, to much weight, to much glue, flats can and do curle from time to time.
Only strong one way, on the edge. The flat can curle..

When I core, I use one core for the handle, and one for the front...
blud
 
blud said:
You got it joey!
Laminated fronts and handles, are crap, in my opinion.. Same thing, to much weight, to much glue, flats can and do curle from time to time.
Only strong one way, on the edge. The flat can curle..

When I core, I use one core for the handle, and one for the front...
blud
Click to expand...

When you insert the core, are you positioning the grain in a particular way as it relates to the piece of wood being cored? I.E. 90 degrees to each other. Also do you always use maple as the handle wood or other woods such as purple heart or ash? Would you ever use a different wood as the core, such as purple heart or ash? Thank you in advance.
 
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wood cores

macguy said:
When you insert the core, are you positioning the grain in a particular way as it relates to the piece of wood being cored? I.E. 90 degrees to each other. Also do you always use maple as the handle wood or other woods such as purple heart or ash? Would you ever use a different wood as the core, such as purple heart or ash? Thank you in advance.
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Yes, I rotate the core accordingly.
I use maple when I core and fronts or handles. I use the shaft dowels that have brown sugar stains or just look bad, but have straight grain, and have been seasoned for a long time.
blud
 
I dont mind Blud... glady appreciate it coming from your end.

So would it be safe to say that coring produces a hit as close to maple since maple is used in the core?

what about BE maple cored with bocote?

Yes I do aggree that vee points bound to change the hit... don't know what extent and is it for the better or worse?

What about BE mape with a bocote core with vee points and one with flat bottom inlays? Would having a bocote core work in favor of the hit?
 
combo

((VH)) said:
I dont mind Blud... glady appreciate it coming from your end.

So would it be safe to say that coring produces a hit as close to maple since maple is used in the core?

what about BE maple cored with bocote?

Yes I do aggree that vee points bound to change the hit... don't know what extent and is it for the better or worse?

What about BE mape with a bocote core with vee points and one with flat bottom inlays? Would having a bocote core work in favor of the hit?
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Maple and maple core= maple hit.

Never thought of it. Should be a nice hit.

Vee's seem to hit a bit softer in most cases.

BE, with cored bocote = another good hit.
bocote core be front and vee points, = great hit and value.

VH, come on down, sounds like were on the same page.

blud
 
Michael Webb said:
. They also do it for stability. I have worked on just about every ones cues in the business and nothing beats aging wood. If you core with out going all the way like you mentioned there is to much chance for air gaps and buzz. So you either core or you don't. I don't think there is a mid point compromise.
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Yup. Coring might make the forearm more warp resistant but wood still shrinks if not aged.
I know one local superb cuemaker who cores his forearm bi-directional style.
.625 by 5 inches or so at the top. .750" by 5 inches or so at the bottom.
Both threaded. Must be nice when you can thread that deep ( either long carbide thread mill or tap).
 
coring

Joseph Cues said:
Yup. Coring might make the forearm more warp resistant but wood still shrinks if not aged.
I know one local superb cuemaker who cores his forearm bi-directional style.
.625 by 5 inches or so at the top. .750" by 5 inches or so at the bottom.
Both threaded. Must be nice when you can thread that deep ( either long carbide thread mill or tap).
Click to expand...

Hi Joey,
Coring that deep is best done with a boring bar, and then you use a bar with a thread angle ground on the triangle insert tip. Just bore and turn cut the threads.

I personally would not use two differant sizes of wood or pieces of cores. If you did want to off set the internal size, bore to a given depth and then flip it around and bore as deep as nessesary, then build your core plug with off set sizes and threads.Two pieces are not as stable as a solid one piece, end to end for the fronts..
One piece is much more stable. Nothing to it. Hanger, every time. Come take lessons.....
blud
 
blud said:
Hi Joey,
Coring that deep is best done with a boring bar, and then you use a bar with a thread angle ground on the triangle insert tip. Just bore and turn cut the threads.

I personally would not use two differant sizes of wood or pieces of cores. If you did want to off set the internal size, bore to a given depth and then flip it around and bore as deep as nessesary, then build your core plug with off set sizes and threads.Two pieces are not as stable as a solid one piece, end to end for the fronts..
One piece is much more stable. Nothing to it. Hanger, every time. Come take lessons.....
blud
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I agree Blud.
One piece, either . around or less than .750, done with a gun drill is much more stable and the dowel is almost 100% dead on center and concentric to the sleeve.
Having the dowel go all the way thru I think is better b/c the reasonance coming down to the handle is more pronounced.
 
drill

Joseph Cues said:
I agree Blud.
One piece, either . around or less than .750, done with a gun drill is much more stable and the dowel is almost 100% dead on center and concentric to the sleeve.
Having the dowel go all the way thru I think is better b/c the reasonance coming down to the handle is more pronounced.
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Gun drills are ok, but I come back and bore to clean up and have the same size hole through out, and the sleeve will fall on center for sure.. Gun drillls can walk a little, if your not careful. Alignment of gun drills can be a problem at times. I have been using them for years, and once in a whle, they move a little. Heat will also cause them to walk, [ expand],by drilling with a to fast of a feed rate. Always use plenty of clean air. It's all in the machining process.
blud
 
blud said:
Gun drills are ok, but I come back and bore to clean up and have the same size hole through out, and the sleeve will fall on center for sure.. Gun drillls can walk a little, if your not careful. Alignment of gun drills can be a problem at times. I have been using them for years, and once in a whle, they move a little. Heat will also cause them to walk, [ expand],by drilling with a to fast of a feed rate. Always use plenty of clean air. It's all in the machining process.
blud
Click to expand...
Hey blud, what do you think of the little "Air conditioners" for air lines? Where you can put it between the air hookup and gun drill, and instead of just clean air running through, but cooler air (you can adjust the temp.) I've though about trying it.

Thanks,

Jon

My longest boring bar can handle around 13-14" but i need to make another, a little stiffer, i can't believe that people pay what they do for the long boring bar, when all you need is a mill, a drill press and a tap and a carbide insert lol...
 
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