Ask The Cuemaker Topic

[((VH))]

VH, come on down, sounds like were on the same page.

blud

We're just using our brain once in a while Blud=)

I guess another reason why coring gives stability and additional strength to a front is because a tube (cored front) is much stronger than a rod (solid front).

Another thing that probably would give it extra stability and toughness is having a tapered core then plugged with a tapered maple dowel.

Ey Blud, what about the size of the gun drill, if you finish it off with a boring bar the gundrill wouldn't be at .750 maybe around .725 would be ok what dya think?

 

[blud]

drill

We're just using our brain once in a while Blud=)

I guess another reason why coring gives stability and additional strength to a front is because a tube (cored front) is much stronger than a rod (solid front).

Another thing that probably would give it extra stability and toughness is having a tapered core then plugged with a tapered maple dowel.

Ey Blud, what about the size of the gun drill, if you finish it off with a boring bar the gundrill wouldn't be at .750 maybe around .725 would be ok what dya think?

Yes that would work. I have a "dumore grinder" and I ground my gun drill from, .750 down to .735. Then i come back and bore @ .750 to .753. [ glue room]. Works for me. The gun drills body, is a bit smaller than it's nose, so it allows me to grind it down a little....at the nose...

I don't bore on a taper. Nor do I step bore the front. Straight is a little stronger for the core, which takes 75% of the hit, and feel. Another words, transfering the hit to the handle, which is also a core or a .750, tenon. I feel the larger, the better transformation of a more soild and stable hit or feel.......The sleeve, [front] is glued in with expanding glue. All, as a one piece, when dry. Just make a good fit, and no worries from then on.......
rock on,,,,
blud

 

[blud]

clean air

Hey blud, what do you think of the little "Air conditioners" for air lines? Where you can put it between the air hookup and gun drill, and instead of just clean air running through, but cooler air (you can adjust the temp.) I've though about trying it.

Thanks,

Jon

My longest boring bar can handle around 13-14" but i need to make another, a little stiffer, i can't believe that people pay what they do for the long boring bar, when all you need is a mill, a drill press and a tap and a carbide insert lol...

Hi Jon, all you nedd is clean air. A/C won't make a differance, but, give it a try, and let us know. I buy my bars, heat treated and such. Works well for me.
blud

 

[billfishhead]

blud,,,,,,,,,,did you get my pm ?

 

[blud]

pm

blud,,,,,,,,,,did you get my pm ?

sorry, but no.
blud

 

[((VH))]

Blud,

Coring benefits the use of woods in a wide variety, giving them a solid hit even if the wood's aren't hard enough to give out a good hit.

But what about woods like cocobolo, purple heart, indian rosewood and bocote? They're great for fronts... is coring a neccesity for these woods too? If it.s a matter of weight issue then maybe, but wouldn't it take away the natural hit of these woods?

Cocobolo could be quite heavy, and so does purple heart if the target would be 19oz. Indian rosewwod is rather light and bocote is similat to bubinga in weight.

 

[macguy]

Yes that would work. I have a "dumore grinder" and I ground my gun drill from, .750 down to .735. Then i come back and bore @ .750 to .753. [ glue room]. Works for me. The gun drills body, is a bit smaller than it's nose, so it allows me to grind it down a little....at the nose...

I don't bore on a taper. Nor do I step bore the front. Straight is a little stronger for the core, which takes 75% of the hit, and feel. Another words, transfering the hit to the handle, which is also a core or a .750, tenon. I feel the larger, the better transformation of a more soild and stable hit or feel.......The sleeve, [front] is glued in with expanding glue. All, as a one piece, when dry. Just make a good fit, and no worries from then on.......
rock on,,,,
blud

What do you mean an expanding glue, something like Gorilla glue?

 

[Joseph Cues]

What do you mean an expanding glue, something like Gorilla glue?

YIKES! Those gorilla glue will probably make the sleeve explode.
They just keep expanding and expanding and expanding.
I don't think you can use Gorilla glue in this application.

 

[blud]

What do you mean an expanding glue, something like Gorilla glue?

I use a glue that expands while it's drying. It fills all cracks and pours.
No air space is left. NONE.

Using a two part epoxy is not the way to go. First off, when slipping the front or handle over a core, your wipping the glue off. It just piles up on the sleeve. Big mess, and does not cover the entire core and or front. Leaves air pockets. Bunches of them.

Home depot sellls expanding glues. Not what i use, but close. As you figured out, mine is secret, and I no tell you...hee hee .......
blud

 

[blud]

coring again

Blud,

Coring benefits the use of woods in a wide variety, giving them a solid hit even if the wood's aren't hard enough to give out a good hit.

But what about woods like cocobolo, purple heart, indian rosewood and bocote? They're great for fronts... is coring a neccesity for these woods too? If it.s a matter of weight issue then maybe, but wouldn't it take away the natural hit of these woods?

Cocobolo could be quite heavy, and so does purple heart if the target would be 19oz. Indian rosewwod is rather light and bocote is similat to bubinga in weight.

VH, core if need be. Don't need to core any woods. Sometimes I build an ebony cue with out coring and bring it in at 18.7 to 18.9....Other wise, build cues. Coring just depends on who, why, and what for's. I, core when building collectable cues with lots of ivory and sterling silver or gold, just to cut down the weight issues.
blud

 

[macguy]

I use a glue that expands while it's drying. It fills all cracks and pours.
No air space is left. NONE.

Using a two part epoxy is not the way to go. First off, when slipping the front or handle over a core, your wipping the glue off. It just piles up on the sleeve. Big mess, and does not cover the entire core and or front. Leaves air pockets. Bunches of them.

Home depot sellls expanding glues. Not what i use, but close. As you figured out, mine is secret, and I no tell you...hee hee .......
blud

Fair enough, but without being specific, what family of glue would we be talking about?

 

[blud]

glues

Fair enough, but without being specific, what family of glue would we be talking about?

Not sure what you mean, just look for expanding glues. That should do the trick. This glue in a one part system. Squeze it out, pour it on,spread it on, mop it on or what ever,put the parts together, and, and , oh, just follow the directions.

blud

 

[((VH))]

Blud,

Excuse me for my ignorance, we all know the benefits of coring.
But there must be some guidlines as to when and what woods to core right?
Aside from collectible cues and weight...
In a nutshell would be ok

 

[cueman]

Fair enough, but without being specific, what family of glue would we be talking about?

Most use Gorilla glue or one of the other polyurethane glues. Elmers makes a good one. Also it is good to wet maple before putting it in as that makes the bond stronger. That may be what Blud was refering to as "follow directions". The polyurethane glues say to moisten really dry woods like maple and such. I was in a shop today buying a saw machine and saw the guys coring method. He used a long boring bar and tapered the hole. Then he tapered the core piece so he could shove them in until the pieces snugged up really tight. Great method. I saw a piece he sawed up the middle and there was no gaps. I try to avoid coring but I did like his method. I choose to use lighter handle wood to hold the ebony cues to 19 ounce. I also use a titanium 5/16-14 pin and that keeps them from being so front heavy. If someone wants ebony without the harder hit ebony gives then coring would be an option, but only then.

 

[Joseph Cues]

Chris, why taper the hole?
Why not just counter sink it from the top?
Surely, that dowel is not going to move if it's counter bored/larger at the top.
That must have been a really loooong boring bar. lol
I have heard one California cuemaker tapering the hole in his forearms too.

 

[cueman]

He uses a long piece of maple for his handle. Tapers the front to slip into the tepered hole in the forearm. He has a glue relief slot to relieve pressure. His hole does not go all the way though. It gets the weight down on the cue is the main reson to do it. The other reason is that it seems to be a really strong way of joining the cue without worrying about any buzzes like many get when joining with a screw. Many roads do lead to Rome don't they?
Chris

 

[Joseph Cues]

He uses a long piece of maple for his handle. Tapers the front to slip into the tepered hole in the forearm. He has a glue relief slot to relieve pressure. His hole does not go all the way though. It gets the weight down on the cue is the main reson to do it. The other reason is that it seems to be a really strong way of joining the cue without worrying about any buzzes like many get when joining with a screw. Many roads do lead to Rome don't they?
Chris

Thanks. I get it now.

 

[blud]

bad move

Thanks. I get it now.

Bad move in my opinion, not running the hole all the way through. Leave to much to go wrong. Air gaps, and the end of the cues front colud still take a turn or twist. It's just not as stable as a complete core.
blud

 

[Joseph Cues]

Bad move in my opinion, not running the hole all the way through. Leave to much to go wrong. Air gaps, and the end of the cues front colud still take a turn or twist. It's just not as stable as a complete core.
blud

I didn't say I agreed with it Blud.
He's just doing it to cut weight down.
Personally, I prefer through core.
The dowel having the joint pin and threaded to the handle makes for a better hit imo.

 

[blud]

glue rings

I didn't say I agreed with it Blud.
He's just doing it to cut weight down.
Personally, I prefer through core.
The dowel having the joint pin and threaded to the handle makes for a better hit imo.

Hi joey, i also put glue rings around the cored plug about every one inch or so, about .100 th deep, then stop the lathe and drag about 6 glue rings long ways to the core. letting the single point tool dig in about .100th deep. pull out and hand rotate the cue and repeat for at least 6 times or every 60 degrees. No air, just a good tight fit. soild as all get out....and on center.
blud