Asking once again...

jes_playin

jes_playin

Needs the 2 out
Silver Member
I know this question has been asked several times and I've searched for answers but have not found one that works for me yet. I have tried Mazzco Felt Cleaner and warm,soapy water...both will lighten the spots but not remove them.

I need to know something GREAT to clean my Simonis 860 cloth. I vaccum and brush on a regular basis. It's not the chalk that I'm having problems with,however. My balls are leaving white spots (get your mind out of the gutters) on my cloth.

I've uploaded a few pictures so you can see what I'm talking about. My camera isn't the best in the world as you'll soon see (the color of my Simonis is actually Electric Blue).
I also know that several of you will tell me that the spots are coming from my cue on bad hits,etc. I will asure you all that is not the case. If I don't gently place a ball on the table it will leave a mark.

This is what I'm talking about,but the entire table is covered with these dots.
spot.jpg


This is what my break spot looks like. Notice that in the second picture I have used felt cleaner which lightened the spots but didn't remove them completely.
break-spot.jpg


The last image is of the track line of my breaks...I guess it's because the ball skips on it's way to the rack.
break-line.jpg
 
ABall said:
Those are permanent marks, not stains.
Click to expand...
Why would they be permanent marks just from placing a ball onto the table? The felt is about 2 weeks old. There's no jump or masse shots being made.
 
ABall said:
Those are permanent marks, not stains.
Click to expand...

Yeah, skid marks!! LOL. :D Unlike the brown kind, these are caused by burns from the cue ball.

You could try "Quick-Clean":

http://quick-clean.com/index.php

I don't know if that removes the burns, but I'm sure they can tell you the answer to that. Either way, I'll be using that on my cloth instead of brushing or vacuuming for numerous reasons.

By the way, I'd avoid "Chalk-Off" the knock-off, unless you don't like money! <--(disclaimer, not first-hand info.. I've just read about it in the archives. Yikes!)
 
those spots are actually burn marks according to Arimith information that comes with the set of balls.I believe the ball generates up to 200degrees of friction when struck. cheap balls will leave worse spots than good balls.I clean the balls at my place twice a week and I think that helps.feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.

Paul
 
Yes you can make Quick-Clean cover the burn spots. Let me explain what a burn mark is. Most all pool table cloth is a wool nylon blend. When the cloth is dyed the wool accepts the dye all the way through itself. Nylon will not accept the color all the way through. The dye is just coating the outside of the nylon. The friction form the balls knock the dye off the nylon leaving a white spot or burn. You will never be able to remove the white spot. However a little moisture and you are able to drag dye over the spot. I would never suggest that you wet your table. The reason I do it with the Quick-Clean is when I drag the color the table is dry in 60 seconds not leaving the cloth damp. If you take a jewelers loop and a flashlight you will see exactly what I mean. You will see the loop in the cloth and the white strands on the top of the loop where the color is gone. Jes Playin pictures to me look like something on the cloth rather than a burn mark. If I can help call me.
 
jes_playin said:
I know this question has been asked several times and I've searched for answers but have not found one that works for me yet. I have tried Mazzco Felt Cleaner and warm,soapy water...both will lighten the spots but not remove them.

I need to know something GREAT to clean my Simonis 860 cloth. I vaccum and brush on a regular basis. It's not the chalk that I'm having problems with,however. My balls are leaving white spots (get your mind out of the gutters) on my cloth.

I've uploaded a few pictures so you can see what I'm talking about. My camera isn't the best in the world as you'll soon see (the color of my Simonis is actually Electric Blue).
I also know that several of you will tell me that the spots are coming from my cue on bad hits,etc. I will asure you all that is not the case. If I don't gently place a ball on the table it will leave a mark.

This is what I'm talking about,but the entire table is covered with these dots.
spot.jpg


This is what my break spot looks like. Notice that in the second picture I have used felt cleaner which lightened the spots but didn't remove them completely.
break-spot.jpg


The last image is of the track line of my breaks...I guess it's because the ball skips on it's way to the rack.
break-line.jpg
Click to expand...
The marks are from friction. When the cue ball is hit hard, whether you are breaking or just shooting hard marks will be generated. When the cue ball is struck friction and heat are generated at the contact point on the cloth.

If you are using non-Aramith balls these marks will even be worst. Aramith balls have a protective coating built into the surface material which minimize this effect. The better the quality the better you are off, due the exacting standards use and measured during manufacturing.

Good luck
 
I appreciate all of the repiles,but I think most of you are missing this part of my post.



jes_playin said:
If I don't gently place a ball on the table it will leave a mark.
Click to expand...

The spots don't always come when the balls are struck. If I take a ball and hold it about 5 inches from the table and drop it straight down it will leave a white mark.
 
jes_playin said:
I appreciate all of the repiles,but I think most of you are missing this part of my post.
If I don't gently place a ball on the table it will leave a mark.
Click to expand...
The spots don't always come when the balls are struck. If I take a ball and hold it about 5 inches from the table and drop it straight down it will leave a white mark.
Click to expand...

I think this part is consistant with what others have said. There would be some heat generated from the impact of a ball hitting the table. How do these spots compare with the break spots? Same color, just smaller, right?
 
Cuebacca said:
I think this part is consistant with what others have said. There would be some heat generated from the impact of a ball hitting the table. How do these spots compare with the break spots? Same color, just smaller, right?
Click to expand...
Not smaller,just less concentrated in such a small area
 
jes_playin said:
I appreciate all of the repiles,but I think most of you are missing this part of my post.





The spots don't always come when the balls are struck. If I take a ball and hold it about 5 inches from the table and drop it straight down it will leave a white mark.
Click to expand...

You are creating indentations into the fibers everytime there's extreme pressure coinciding with friction. Think of it as a bruise. Breaking marks are there because of the extreme force of the cue ball contacting the cloth and suddenly jolted out of its spot. In time lapse photography from years past, there is give in the cloth at the time of the tip impacting the cue ball. The absolute point where the cue ball touches the fabric goes downward then forward when struck by the tip of the cue. It's more accentuated when the cue is at any angle coming downward when aiming for the break. Now the same applies on high velocity shots. Dropping a ball on the table will definitely leave a mark. I agree, break marks on Simonis cloth add character. But also think of them as bulleyes on a windshield. A little tiny pebble at a high velocity will have a powerful PSI. The result is a tiny impact point where there is distribution of force spreading the shockwave. The shockwave must go somewhere. The pores of the glass absorb the impact and you have tiny cracks that spread outward. The same is with the cloth fibers. You have slate underneath. The shockwave is resisted by the slate and therefore the cloth fibers absorbs the PSI in a very tight area. Thus creating a damaged area that looks white.
 
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