Attaching cross brace (slate support) to side beams - Brunswick Wellington

flurec

New member
Hopefully cross posting is allowed. I originally posted in the Main Forum, but the posts on the thread died out before a resolution. I was gifted this table and do not want to invest too much money in it.

All of the original information with posts and pictures is here:
https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/identify-brunswick-and-questions.555206/
A reddit post I made:

The summary is I have a table that has been identified as a Brunswick Wellington circa 1906.
https://www.billiardrestoration.com/antique-pool-tables/wellington.htm
The slate support that runs between the side pockets, under the slate, is not attached in any way to the side beams. It is completely loose and can be lifted up and down. There is a square headed bolt that would seem to connect the cross member to the beam but I cannot see the bolt if I look in the gap between the cross brace and the side beam (so it can't be long enough?). I can't imagine this is how it should be as pressure down would push the side beams apart.

How is the best way to attach it? it is just sitting loose resting on the side beams- which are propping it up because they are angled in.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
 
Hopefully cross posting is allowed. I originally posted in the Main Forum, but the posts on the thread died out before a resolution. I was gifted this table and do not want to invest too much money in it.

All of the original information with posts and pictures is here:
https://forums.azbilliards.com/threads/identify-brunswick-and-questions.555206/
A reddit post I made:

The summary is I have a table that has been identified as a Brunswick Wellington circa 1906.
https://www.billiardrestoration.com/antique-pool-tables/wellington.htm
The slate support that runs between the side pockets, under the slate, is not attached in any way to the side beams. It is completely loose and can be lifted up and down. There is a square headed bolt that would seem to connect the cross member to the beam but I cannot see the bolt if I look in the gap between the cross brace and the side beam (so it can't be long enough?). I can't imagine this is how it should be as pressure down would push the side beams apart.

How is the best way to attach it? it is just sitting loose resting on the side beams- which are propping it up because they are angled in.

Any help is greatly appreciated!
The bolts in the cross members are used to keep the side panels from bowing outwards under the weight of the slates! Loose or just sitting there they serve no purpose, keep in mind that table was designed to be taken apart and put back together again, and remain solid, provided all the frame bolts are doing what they're suppose to do, keep the frame supported!
 
I decided to take the table apart more so I could understand how that cross member should be attached. It does not appear to be attached in any way (or that it was ever). It looks like smooth wood against wood. Could it have been glued to the veneer that has now peeled off?

It seems like it should be secured. Should I glue, clamp and throw some screws through it? Any weight down would push the angled beams apart. Is the slate meant to be only supported by the side beams?

IMG_20230728_200421.jpg
 
I decided to take the table apart more so I could understand how that cross member should be attached. It does not appear to be attached in any way (or that it was ever). It looks like smooth wood against wood. Could it have been glued to the veneer that has now peeled off?

It seems like it should be secured. Should I glue, clamp and throw some screws through it? Any weight down would push the angled beams apart. Is the slate meant to be only supported by the side beams?

View attachment 710895
Where's the other cross member, there's 2 total.
 
Where's the other cross member, there's 2 tota
IMG_20230728_205805.jpg


Here you can see one of them. I had to remove them to take out the one that is the mystery. (from side pocket to side pocket) . They were attached with 1 screw into the end support beam.

edit-
I am by no means a pool expert but I can assemble/disassemble and handle most dyi projects. For the life of me I can't figure out why this table is the way it is...
 
Last edited:
View attachment 710899

Here you can see one of them. I had to remove them to take out the one that is the mystery. (from side pocket to side pocket) . They were attached with 1 screw into the end support beam.

edit-
I am by no means a pool expert but I can assemble/disassemble and handle most dyi projects. For the life of me I can't figure out why this table is the way it is...
You bought a mess, that's why.
 
And just to clarify- my wife works at a retirement home and "won" this table in a lottery. (They needed to get rid of it). I said "why not, a free pool table, what could go wrong".

Based on feedback I have received I think I need to get my wood glue, clamps and appropriate length screws and glue this up. I thought they might be a more "correct" way of doing it!

I think my problem from the beginning was assuming that it was put together correctly when I assumed ownership!
 
And just to clarify- my wife works at a retirement home and "won" this table in a lottery. (They needed to get rid of it). I said "why not, a free pool table, what could go wrong".

Based on feedback I have received I think I need to get my wood glue, clamps and appropriate length screws and glue this up. I thought they might be a more "correct" way of doing it!

I think my problem from the beginning was assuming that it was put together correctly when I assumed ownership!
Have fun with it... No such thing as too much reinforcing. Get the frame set up and level...check in with pictures for feedback.
Welcome to AZB... I'm not a mechanic but appreciate a good DIY. Following this thread.
 
Ok, I'm coming up with a plan to reattach the brace mounts and wanted to get some feedback. I am trying to use what I have on hand if possible.

The wood is 1.75' thick and I plan on using 6 - 2.5' wood screws on each brace mount. The mated surface will be covered with titebond and clamped with some wood between the clamps and the table to spread out the force (somewhere else I was told to only use "Durabond" but I have titebond and it is stronger then the wood itself once it cures. I have used it in many applications.

I have mocked this up in some pics.

1. Glue the brace mount surface
2. Screw in six 2.5 inch wood screws (locations indicated with black dots- wood is 1.75 inches thick)
3. Clamp using some pieces of wood to spread out the force

Thoughts?
Do I need more screws?
Longer?
Different glue?
2 by 4s to spread out the force?

Thanks for your feedback

see pics

IMG_20230730_172219.jpg
IMG_20230730_172111.jpg
IMG_20230730_172118.jpg
IMG_20230730_172211.jpg
 
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