Bar rail question

Dave38

theemperorhasnoclotheson
Silver Member
Have a customer(home) with a 7ft dynamo table that wants to copy the rail speed of a local pool hall. They have great american 7ft tables and have changed the factory rail cushions to something else. They won't say with what. The speed of them is ridiculous, especially for a 7ft. They have them raised as high as the rail bolts allow, otherwise the balls hop off of them. Any advice as to what could be used for new cushions to increase the speed?
 
Have a customer(home) with a 7ft dynamo table that wants to copy the rail speed of a local pool hall. They have great american 7ft tables and have changed the factory rail cushions to something else. They won't say with what. The speed of them is ridiculous, especially for a 7ft. They have them raised as high as the rail bolts allow, otherwise the balls hop off of them. Any advice as to what could be used for new cushions to increase the speed?
Yeah, install the rail cloth wrong, don't wrap it.around the bottom back side of the rails and the nose height gets to low, causing the balls to hopp off the rails, and play lightening fast, or loke shit, depending on who you're asking!
 
Yeah, install the rail cloth wrong, don't wrap it.around the bottom back side of the rails and the nose height gets to low, causing the balls to hopp off the rails, and play lightening fast, or loke shit, depending on who you're asking!
Not sure what you really mean, with all due respect.......just trying to make a customer happy. Thanks for your help
 
Not sure what you really mean, with all due respect.......just trying to make a customer happy. Thanks for your help
Question, why would you want to make a customer's table play like tables that are obviously recovered wrong in the first place? Why not just tell the customer the tables he wants his table to play like, play wrong! And another thought, why not see about fixing the tables that play wrong, play the way they should in the first place?
 
Question, why would you want to make a customer's table play like tables that are obviously recovered wrong in the first place? Why not just tell the customer the tables he wants his table to play like, play wrong! And another thought, why not see about fixing the tables that play wrong, play the way they should in the first place?
The owners of the hall do their own tables, I am not here to fix theirs. My customer plays there, and our league has all of the higher level tournys there including the Vegas qualifiers and the customer wants his table to play as fast as theirs, and they won't share what they have done to the rails. I thought someone here may be able to help with advice, but guess not. Thanks anyways,
Dave.
 
Our local place did our valleys with ridgeback rails and championship 30/30 stretched ridiculous tight, like playing on bare slate and they are waaayyyy to fast. Nearly unplayable!
 
Our local place did our valleys with ridgeback rails and championship 30/30 stretched ridiculous tight, like playing on bare slate and they are waaayyyy to fast. Nearly unplayable!
I'm trying to tell you guys that if the rails only have the cloth tucked behind the top half of the rails on the back side, that acts as a shim tilting the nose of the cushions down! If the cloth is NOT wrapped around the bottom back side, the rails play to damn fast, and the balls hopp of the rails when the cloth breaks in! If you guys think that's the way pool tables are suppose to play, take up golf instead!!
20220716_114601_resize_20220716_181229.jpg
 
Our local place did our valleys with ridgeback rails and championship 30/30 stretched ridiculous tight, like playing on bare slate and they are waaayyyy to fast. Nearly unplayable!
Championship 3030 has the same bed cloth speed no matter which table its installed on, the difference in all tables is the rail speed, that decides the speed, hopp, slow rebound, short or long banks, all of the above, not the bed cloth speed, tight is tight no matter what table it's installed on.
 
I'm trying to tell you guys that if the rails only have the cloth tucked behind the top half of the rails on the back side, that acts as a shim tilting the nose of the cushions down! If the cloth is NOT wrapped around the bottom back side, the rails play to damn fast, and the balls hopp of the rails when the cloth breaks in! If you guys think that's the way pool tables are suppose to play, take up golf instead!!
View attachment 706422
I personally have ALWAYS wrapped the cloth to the rear on top and bottom.
Now that brings up a question, if the cloth is attached to the bottom, tilting the nose down, BUT adjust the rails to a higher point, thereby putting the nose back at the same height, will the rail still play faster then normal, or will it be the same as usual?
 
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I personally have never ALWAYS wrapped the cloth to the rear on top and bottom.
Now that brings up a question, if the cloth is attached to the bottom, tilting the nose down, BUT adjust the rails to a higher point, thereby putting the nose back at the same height, will the rail still play faster then normal, or will it be the same as usual?
The pitch of the cushions are off then, more tilted down, which is why the rails don't rebound the balls right.
 
I personally have never ALWAYS wrapped the cloth to the rear on top and bottom.
Now that brings up a question, if the cloth is attached to the bottom, tilting the nose down, BUT adjust the rails to a higher point, thereby putting the nose back at the same height, will the rail still play faster then normal, or will it be the same as usual?
The position of the cushions behind the nose height is just as important as the nose height itself.
 
Championship 3030 has the same bed cloth speed no matter which table its installed on, the difference in all tables is the rail speed, that decides the speed, hopp, slow rebound, short or long banks, all of the above, not the bed cloth speed, tight is tight no matter what table it's installed on.
If clothe stretch dont matter on speed and this is normal speed of 30/30 then I will never buy it cause no-matter if you touch a rail or not you can't hit it easy enough.
 
I personally have ALWAYS wrapped the cloth to the rear on top and bottom.
Now that brings up a question, if the cloth is attached to the bottom, tilting the nose down, BUT adjust the rails to a higher point, thereby putting the nose back at the same height, will the rail still play faster then normal, or will it be the same as usual?
Did you measure the nose height of the fast tables??
 
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