Barbox 8-ball Situations

PoolSharkAllen said:
It's not clear if the 4 can squeak by the 5. Shooting the 9 into the side might be a tad easier as it's an unobstructed shot. And the 12 ball might assist the 9 going in if the shot is a little bit off.

Also, if you do make the 9, you should have some easy follow-up shots you can play. If you make the 4, your follow-up shots are long distance.


I agree with you. I'd cut the 9 in the side. tough shot but if made, there will be follow-up shots.
 
CaptainJR said:
In situations like this where you broke, made a ball and have nothing or your opponent broke and made nothing and left nothing, I have a specific thing I look for. The issue that makes this shot different than other shots where you don't have any obvious shot is that the table is still open. It is difficult to find a safe when the table is open.

Although I don't see what I usually look for in this layout. Usually there is one set of balls that has a problem ball or two. What I normally look for in this situation is a shot that I can force my opponent to take the set of balls that have problems. Now you don't have to play a safe on all the balls, just play safe on the set that you want.

With this particular layout, both sets are wide open. You included in your query that you are playing a good player, so if you don't make a shot you are done. So you must go for a shot of your choice. I would prefer the bank on the one ball and draw the cue ball back into the 15. Very difficult shot, I hope it wasn't hill hill.

Great advice! Playing safe when it's an open table might not be possible. So I like the idea of setting your opponent up for the side you don't want. If there aren't any trouble balls, then you have no choice but to go for a low percentage shot and hope for the best.
 
Tx poolnut;

Agreed, on a bar box that is not as difficult as it may seem. It will go by the 5, per the diagram, and position on the 6 is natural. Game over, other guy can't win if he doesn't shoot. If you play the safe that others talk about, I will put you behind the 8, literally, off the 6 and then you will be f***ed.

PS. Nice plug for the book.................
 
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Black Cat 5791 said:
I'd play a safety on the 13 leaving the cue up on the rail forcing him to play high balls. Since it's off the break it wouldn't be ball in hand then you'd be able to take low's after he misses.

Black Cat :cool:

I don't think its a good strategy to hope a good player misses a shot. There are highly makeable balls from that position. Assuming the other player can play a little, he runs out.
 
I like the 9 in the side. I think it's a 70% shot if you're seeing them well if you aim as I diagrammed. There's a fair margin for going in and small margin for missing if you hit it good. Also, the CB doesn't look like it will scratch to me and should leave a shot.

If it's early in the match and the eyes aren't in, I might go the safe. I thought the Big Hurt's suggestion was clever, but it's looks to me that to get the CB back behind the 6 the hit would likely bring the 7 ball back up table.

I'd consider a soft stun shot as diagrammed below.
 

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thebighurt said:
Since both balls are runable you need to do whatever will give you the best chance to get back to the table. Going for a shot is basically a sucker shot here. You are betting the whole game on a real low percentage shot. I would combe the 15 into the seven, knoching the seven into the side rail and down by the 10 and 11 and hopefully tying them up and at the same time drawing 2 rails and try to freeze the cueball to the back of the 6 behind the 6. You don't want to go off the 1 to go behind the 6 because if you move the 1 and dont get behind the 6 the 12 will be makeable.

Shooting the 4 is not a sucker shot, its the only and best shot. Assuming you freeze on the 6, which is highly unlikely after moving other balls and drawing with some right, your next shot is from behind the 8. If it doesn't freeze, the 6 is a pop-up in the side or corner. The 4 is the shot. Actually the only other rational shot, stretching a little, is the kick at the 6 and leave the cue behind the 8, mentioned by lewdo26, and thats tough!
 
Well, for starters, that is a nasty result, but you almost have to work with it.
I would start with
START(
%Ad3F0%DY7R3%EP3J7%Fn5J3%Gb1K9%Hp9R2%I[3P9%JD6I7%KG6I0%LY0E4
%MD5P3%NM6N6%Od6M0%Pr9Y7%W[9[5%Xa9C2%Ye3G4%Zr4Y1%[b7D2%\c9E5
%eB6a6
)END

Leaving a little angle above the 7, 7 in the same pocket as the banked 1, and roll down for the 5 into the corner, hoping to leave myself pretty straight in on the 4 into the other corner. follow the 4 up and then you have either a straight in shot on the 8, or a nice lil angle.
 
Colin Colenso said:
I like the 9 in the side. I think it's a 70% shot if you're seeing them well if you aim as I diagrammed. There's a fair margin for going in and small margin for missing if you hit it good. Also, the CB doesn't look like it will scratch to me and should leave a shot.

If it's early in the match and the eyes aren't in, I might go the safe. I thought the Big Hurt's suggestion was clever, but it's looks to me that to get the CB back behind the 6 the hit would likely bring the 7 ball back up table.

I'd consider a soft stun shot as diagrammed below.

Colin;

Your cue ball will end up down by the stripes and you should run out, I just think there is more cue ball control if you don't have to hit the 4, and I, for me, think the 4 is a much easier shot.

Actually, because the cue is on the rail you will have to use some form of topspin, or at least roll the cue ball fairly fast. If it doesn't scratch, depending on where you hit the 9 in the pocket, you may well end up with only a combination. Especially if you hit the 9 a little full and catch the side rail after hitting the 4.
 
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Deadon said:
Colin;

Your cue ball will end up down by the stripes and you should run out, I just think there is more cue ball control if you don't have to hit the 4, and I, for me, think the 4 is a much easier shot.

Actually, because the cue is on the rail you will have to use some form of topspin, or at least roll the cue ball fairly fast. If it doesn't scratch, depending on where you hit the 9 in the pocket, you may well end up with only a combination. Especially if you hit the 9 a little full and catch the side rail after hitting the 4.
Deadon,
Looks to me like if I pot the 9 the CB will travel pretty fast toward the 5 or 11 ball. I'd expect to end up with a reasonable shot on the 5, 1, 4 or 7 ball after the balls took their ride.

I assumed the 4 doesn't go, or has only a partial entry into the top right corner pocket. If it was a full pocket shot I'd go for it and expect a decent shot on the 1-ball if I made it.

Colin

Edit: From the lines I added to the pic, the 4, if it just misses the 5 ball, seems to have only half a pocket, making it a very tough shot.
 

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Colin Colenso said:
Deadon,
Looks to me like if I pot the 9 the CB will travel pretty fast toward the 5 or 11 ball. I'd expect to end up with a reasonable shot on the 5, 1, 4 or 7 ball after the balls took their ride.

I assumed the 4 doesn't go, or has only a partial entry into the top right corner pocket. If it was a full pocket shot I'd go for it and expect a decent shot on the 1-ball if I made it.

Colin

Edit: From the lines I added to the pic, the 4, if it just misses the 5 ball, seems to have only half a pocket, making it a very tough shot.

Colin;

Certainly if the pocket for the 4 was limited, or the shot wouldn't go, then the shot as you described is the best. Its so hard to tell on the wei tables the minute details we have to consider when shooting. If I shot the 4, I would have expected to be on the 6. Mentally considering options does have it benefits, hopefully what is learned can be carried on when playing. Thanks for the explanation.
 
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