Basement Pool Room

I'm curious, what are the walls made of on the long rail sides of your table? Are they sheetrock walls? Load bearing walls? You could header out an area of the middle of the wall and make a shelf in effect loosing one sheet of sheetrock at 1/2 inch and a section of 2x4s at 3 1/2 inches gaining a full 4 inches in the area your cue would be stroking.

If none of that is possible a shorter stick ... maybe 54 or 52 inches. There are some very well balanced short cues and you wouldn't be needing them all that much.

Now if you're very tall, that space could affect your stance a bit also, but only when shooting square off the rail when the CB is frozen to it.

All in all, a small price to pay not to have to regress to an 8 foot table IMO.
 
It's pretty easy to figure out.

The dimension of the table itself is only relevant in the context of where you will be placing it. Only if it's exactly centered in a rectangular room will it truly be of utmost importantance.

What really matters is the distance between the nose of the rail to any potential obstruction in your room once you place the table.

So get the dimension of your playing surface (nose of rail to nose of rail) and center it in your space as best you can.

From the nose of the rail, you will want the length of your cue (generally 58 inches) + a backswing that is good enough for you before you hit any obstruction (generally 4-6 inches, but that is a personal decision). If you can clear that, then you'll be fine. Anything less than that, and you'll have to make a personal decision about whether you care, but you will on occasion hit that obstruction.

I highly recommend getting some graph paper. 1 square = 1 foot. Plot your room. Cut out your table playing surface. Cut out something representing your cue. Put it all on the paper and move things around until you have a good idea of what you have, the tradeoffs ect.

Once you do all this, if you have your table moved by someone, you will have to BE VERY SPECIFIC about where you want the table placed. Tell them. .. the nose of the rail needs to be this many inches from here. Else, they may just do whatever and your best plans will be for naught.

Good luck.
 
TSW said:
Your length should be workable. Do you have anything in that space that would interfere with your cue or stance? Pillars, wall molding, window treatments, pictures on the wall, spectator chairs, etc.? To the extent those items are temporarily movable, that would be good. For example, buy lightweight bar stools as your spectator chairs so you can easily slide them out of the way for a shot.

Your width is tight for a 9 footer. It's really hard to know how that will affect you until you try it. Are you going to use the table primarily for practice? Social play? Competitive play? If it's primarily for practice, I like the idea of getting a 9 foot table and placing it a little off-center in the room. With full access to three rails, you can set up every possible shot on the table.

My space is 15' 3" wide (so a foot wider than yours) and I have a 9 foot Diamond Pro-Am that was just installed. I haven't had a chance to play on it yet -- right now it is covered over for painting that is going on in the house. Once that finishes I can report back. I am cautiously optimistic that I'll have enough room for a full stroke but I am a little worried for shots off the rail. The Diamond guys doing the installation felt the same way - probably enough room but just barely. With 14.25 feet I know that you won't have room for a full stroke with a full cue, but the sixty-four thousand dollar question is how often will those shots come up, and how bothersome will they be?
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Thanks for your reply! I will use primarily for practice and social play. That messurement is all clear space. If i dont have enougth room for a full stroke I will move it off center as advise. I really hope it all works as I expect. I cant wait for it to arrive! :)
 
JC said:
I have a 9 foot table and my width is 14 feet 2 inches. When the cue ball is on the rail and you have to shoot straight across the table you have to shorten your backstroke. My cue is 59 inches. IMO you will be just fine and even though it's a little tight no one here has ever had to use a short cue. I used to have a pro 8 and yes it had more room but the nine footer is worth it.

JC
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GREAT! So you can still shoot it with your regular cue just not do a long back stroke to avoid the wall. If it is is like that then I am very happy!
 
TSW said:
That is good to know. It really bothers me that the table manufacturers don't also list room sizes accounting for a full stroke. Diamond, Brunswick, and Olhausen all say that 14x18 is the minimum room size for a 58 inch cue, but that assumes no backstroke. It's misleading, especially when there is such a big purchase at stake. I literally bought my house based on the dimensions for a 9 footer.
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Same here!!! I was house hunting and that was a must! This is the biggest sapce for my budget I could find :(

TSW said:
Thanks -- this is what I am thinking too. The reason I like even more space is because there are nearly always small things in the way that you don't think about. For example, one wall of my room has a window. That window has a shade, which sits about an inch or two off the wall. If you are cutting your room so close that every inch matters, a little thing like a window shade can get in the way. icucybe mentioned that he has a closet in the room. A closet usually comes with a doorframe and a door knob, each of which reduces the space in the room by a little bit.

Granted, these are all very minor issues that most people wouldn't think twice about. But if you are a serious player, the last thing you want is an obstructed shot at a key moment. At the least, you should know about that risk before buying a table.
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Good observation! The good thing of my closet is that the door is inside that space. The closet doors go inside the wall a bit if that makes sense. I also being very tight with my messurements and have like 2 inches more than what I wrote down to account for a worst case scenario. I have space around that for chairs, etc...

3andstop said:
If none of that is possible a shorter stick ... maybe 54 or 52 inches. There are some very well balanced short cues and you wouldn't be needing them all that much.

Now if you're very tall, that space could affect your stance a bit also, but only when shooting square off the rail when the CB is frozen to it.

All in all, a small price to pay not to have to regress to an 8 foot table IMO.
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I am 6ft tall and play with a Mc Dermott. I think they come standard in 58 or 59.

I already contacted Diamond and should have by the first two weeks of december! I am very excited and looking foward to it :)


YOU ALL HAVE BEEN GREAT!!! THANKS FOR LOOKING OUT!!!! :thumbup:
 
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