Best Break on a Valley ?

Rjmoncrief

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
This may be a stupid question but gonna ask anyway. Do any of you feel there is a particular break that works best on a Valley bar box playing 8 ball. I know on a Diamond bar box that using the side (2nd ball) break works pretty well. Any thoughts ?
 
1-2 ball widths from center line, nail the head ball square, med hard speed. Park whitey in the middle of the table.
 
Depends on the Valley - if its one of those bar tables that has been abused for years and has a huge divot on the rack spot, go 2nd ball because usually the head ball is rolling off the rest of the rack. If it racks tight I prefer the head ball break and pound it.
 
I don't think it's a stupid question, however, this is a forum, so advice will be in the form of words.

You can line up 100 players and you'll get 100 different breaks. Sure it may only be an inch, or where it's hit on the cueball, head rail, left or right rail, open hand bridge on cloth, closed bridge on cloth, etc.

There are a ton of variables, and there is no one best way except the way that works for you.

This may be a stupid question but gonna ask anyway. Do any of you feel there is a particular break that works best on a Valley bar box playing 8 ball. I know on a Diamond bar box that using the side (2nd ball) break works pretty well. Any thoughts ?
 
I break from first right diamond about diamond and half out hit the head ball full med too firm depending on speed of table cue ball almost always stops in middle and make one of each a lot I worked on break a lot this is what I do
 
I've had good success with a first-ball break like in 10 ball. High percentage for one of the second balls going in the side.
 
Cue ball on head spot. Swing hard. Stop the rock in the middle of the table.
 
Depends from Valley to Valley... most of have sh!t cloth, mismatched balls and that flimsy plastic rack and who knows what cueball you are gonna get...

Cant really go wrong on a valley by crushing it head on... get enough ball action to make something and the table is small enough where you still have a good chance at getting a shot even if your CB gets loose. Most guys try that second ball break to get the 8 moving and it probably goes only slightly more then it would on a normal break... IMO, there are gonna be better layouts and less clusters if you break head on and hard as opposed the the second ball break.
 
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1-2 ball widths from center line, nail the head ball square, med hard speed. Park whitey in the middle of the table.

Exactly what I do. Makes a ball seems like 90% of the time and park the cue if it doesn't get batted up table by a ball rolling by. The other 10% they're usually left with a wide open run out table :embarrassed2:
 
I think that every Valley has it's own personality so the same break from the same spot will probably produce a variety of different results. I'll usually break about 6" to 10" from the left rail and right on the line. I never get anything close to the same spread but I'll usually make a ball or two and I can go from there. This last week at league though I was breaking from there and getting almost no action on the rack so the results do vary. As a previous poster said, you get rotten cloth, mis-matched balls, some tables have the giant cue ball while others have an odd weighted cue ball and some have the Valley cue ball which I have found to be a little lighter than the cheaper weighted balls. So find a place that works for you a greater percentage of the time and be prepared to switch up if you need to.
 
I don't know about bar box pool tables, I see a lot of .... every Valley is different, but listen, everybody's stroke, delivery, power, accuracy... is different, forget the table being different.

For you ... for your way of playing ... just practice what works for you, cause one guy breaking from a specific spot and making all 15 balls on the break won't result in you doing the same thing if you break from the same place.
 
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