Best glue for tips??

I bought super glue to use with other stuffs, and one experienced guy told me that if I buy big bottle (like 100ml), not small tubes, the glue can stay good very long, with no fridge needed. another thing is that the nose of the bottle should be cleaned after use, so that no glue will stuck on it and get hard
 
I always have one Loctite UltraGel and one LocTite thin in the refrigerator. When I open a bottle, I mark the date opened and chunk after 60 days. Then I retrieve the bottles out of the refrigerator and start the process over.

This stuff is not expensive and I don't like to tips to come off. BTW, the best suggestion I've ever gotten on tip installation is to prime the tip with thin CA before installation. It absolutely works! Thanks, AZB... :cool:
 
The poolroom that I grew up in was opened in 1941 by Reid Caswell
And ran by him until his death, I have watched him put many tips on with contact cement and then he would knock the hell out of it with a hammer. I never seen one of his tips come off, but then again he had been doing it for 50 years

Old school! I'm from the Tweeten's days and I would often change tips in a motel room or even in my car. If I did one in my room, I would tap on it (after gluing) with my heavy four way file, and then turn it upside down (on the tip) and put it in the corner overnight. The next day I would shape it and it was ready to go. There were lots of other tricks we used also but I won't bore you for now. In the car I held the tip on overnight with a large rubber band applying the pressure.

My tools back then were a good tip shaper (I liked the gray two sided ones), a four way file (from the hardware store), various grades of sandpaper (extra fine on up), same for steel wool, razor blades, tweetens and a damp cloth. The super fine steel wool was for smoothing out the shaft on a bar cue that you took off the wall. I carried a tip tapper also when they came out in the 70's. Before that I used a house key to rough up a tip on a house cue. :rolleyes:

Oh, any piece of leather was good for cleaning up the ferrule. In a pinch I used the cover of a pack of matches. I would first wet the ferrule slightly and then work it with the match book cover. Works!
 
Last edited:
+1 For Tweeten's, old school as well. The tip isn't going anywhere, and I think it gives a bit of cushion as well. I've only been doing that for 35 years. The only exception I can recall is for thin wall ferrules where there is a good deal of wood showing. Carpenter's wood glue seemed to work the best in those situations. Then again, I always leave the fiber base on the ferrule when replacing the tip, and go for the Tweeten's.
 
Back
Top