Best Gold Crown to buy

I grew up in 1's but i've never liked the pockets sticking up on the 1,2,3's. I vote for the 4. Early one's 'might' need a frame-sag fix(cheap/easy) but later one's had the beefed up frames. Either one is a great table. Usually the ones that sagged had either loose bolts or people had been sitting on them or both. Easy fix to beef it up.
 
Just about any table can be restored.

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And having one blueprinted the way you did fixes all the inherent manufacturing flaws. That thing is a gem.
 
4 imo. First of all it’s WAY newer than the other choices. So most likely it will be in better shape, all things being equal. Next the pockets are much nicer. Next the ball bearing feet are really nice for a home table owner making tiny adjustments over the years. If new cushions are needed, off-the-shelf superspeed will fit properly. That’s not true of 1’s and 2’s. The rest of it is mostly the same.
 
My gawd that is a beauty.

Anyone want to still challenge me and say Diamond tables are nicer?

4 imo. First of all it’s WAY newer than the other choices. So most likely it will be in better shape, all things being equal. Next the pockets are much nicer. Next the ball bearing feet are really nice for a home table owner making tiny adjustments over the years. If new cushions are needed, off-the-shelf superspeed will fit properly. That’s not true of 1’s and 2’s. The rest of it is mostly the same.
Cushions on my 4 got MBL. ( I think that’s what they are called) put on in 2010. I think they went right on.
 
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Get that one in California on this forum. $3250 is a decent price for one that was never commercially used. I paid 3400 for my GC4 10 years ago in Atlanta, that was also never commercially used. (But that included new simonis and setup).
 
for looks this is my favorite,



I'm partial because I restored a kids size (or diamond table size) one of the same vintage and color scheme. there is just something cool about the George Jetson look.. and I love the tangerine and tan color combo.. you might call it mid century modern or Eames era or similar.. I also like the much older tables but they are different and admirable for their woodwork and super solid construction. some are just really beautiful things.

the playabilty might have increased a bit in the later 60's and there are some beautiful ones like the anniversary editions etc.. art deco sort of looks. lots of chrome or polished aluminum - very cool ! the counters, yea a little gimmicky and a bit sharp I agree,, Id rather have the scoreboard on the wall it doesnt; need to be a part of the table.. my little brunswick had basically a row of beads, for snooker mainly. I find it a bit low and Id just use the wall style scoreboard. easier for others to see ..

Ive seen so many free tables lately , but no gold crowns, for me I;d just watch and there are lots of really nice free ones, If I had a room big enough for a nice 12' snooker table, Ive seen lots of those go past for free and some really beautiful ones.

hiring a professional pool table mechanic, I tend to not agree , Its different if you are loaded and are not able to work on mechanical items.. It has no moving parts, it has to be level and set up right and there are a few tips that you can gain by watching a few evenings about rebuilding rails, recovering them fitting rubber, recovering rails.. I learned a lot just watching videos and trying myself.

then again I know people afraid to fix their own cars or appliances or hire everything out around the house..
I can also see it if you are a pool hall owner, and have a bunch of tables that need regular maintenance guy.. and you build a working relationship.. sure, good.

I'd do all that myself and I feel really , its mostly just about taking care, dong things nicely and not letting the small details go,, sure you might muck up a piece of cloth or need a new piece of rubber,, s o what.. tht will cost you less than flying a guy in to do what you can likely do yourself.

as long as you don't go doing stupid stuff or get destructive its not really hard to level the slate or recover the rails or the table,, sure a guy that does it often will be faster.. There are still some who can do things themselves. Its not rocket science, its a pool table.. moving the slates can be dangerous wihtout a good plan.. it requires some thought. think things through before you do or get enough help to not hurt your back. ire a crane or hiyab or similar if needed ..

I moved mine myself and had help just to lift the slates onto the table, I used rollers, a come along, blocking etc,, i know some techniques for moving heavy items without breaking my own back.. in industry thare is a thing called a critical move, say for example, if you were to involve two cranes working together, thats an example, it requires a meeting where everyone talks, they have a plan , people talk about what could possibly go wrong, you elect a leader who everyone pays attention to so you dont have conflicts during the operation, thats general safety procedures.. the toolbox talk some call it. what you dont want is to start moving stuff and have two leaders thinking or saying conflicithing things..

different people will naturally see it differently, I like old stuff and Ike fixing things and have many varied trades related skills , to me it seems funny they are even called "mechanics" ..

A mechanic that fixes cars works on things far more complex than a pool table.

but think what you like and you have the option to disagree,, I know some do .. There are also so-called"mechanics" that are just rude and know it all types that can't learn because they are too full of themselves.. I'd get to know anyone you plan to hire, there are some real jerks out there too.

Im sure there are many great pool table installers too and sure if you do lots of tables you get faster.. If it were my table speed would not be a big consideration so I'd appraoach it as a system of making each thing right and not really worry about how long it took me, there are still people who can do things for themselves. If you don't think you would enjoy it then don't. Its not a thing for yu , ok then,, but its not imperative that you contract it out if you do have some basic hand skills.

If you are "bucks up" or incompetent with simple mechanical stuff, or if you are setting up a tble for professional players,,
Sure hire it out..buy everything new, some are like that, I'm admittedly the exact opposite ;-) so I'd never hire a "mechanic" I wont even hire a mechanic to fix my cars or reupholster furniture.. or many of the other things people would hire out for. There are many others with similar skills in every city..

as things roll ahead the kids that learned to do mechanical stuff have kids and due to real estate values, well ,
Some of those kids have to grow up in apartments where they just don't get the hand skills passed down, and dont have garages or workshops to practice making mistakes in.

its common now that Ill see a kid that cant; even work a handsaw or a hammer properly , at 25 years old.. that has changed but not for everyone, just on average. for many that is a common situation,, sad I think..

If you are somewhat useful and knowledgeable with things like leveling and re upholstery, wood work ,antique restoration, well then, there is nothing hard to do , or complicated, and there is lots on the web for those who are driven to DYI..
I you are the type who is inclined to DYI , just try ! , watch a bunch of videos, all the tips are there for free, many hours of it.. so just go for it.. whats the worst that can go wrong? ok don't do that !

Why are people afraid of working on stuff these days? the average farmer has enough knowledge and resources to install his own pool table and do a beautiful job.. same with the average joiner or millwright or most who work in building and construction trades.. accountants, maybe not;-) oh lets nbe fair.. im sure there are lots of accountants that are also weekend hobbyists with hand skills too..

my opinions might not align with some other readers, and thats ok, its a big world and you are entitled to express your own opinions..
 
What’s the best Gold Crown to purchase used?
I, II, III or IV?
IMO and nothing else. 4,1,3. The 2’s weren’t very good. The 1 is closer to the 4 than the 3.

The 5’s sucked. I owned a few of them.

The 6’s are good

I’ve owned more 1-5’s than I can count.
 
IMO and nothing else. 4,1,3. The 2’s weren’t very good. The 1 is closer to the 4 than the 3.

The 5’s sucked. I owned a few of them.

The 6’s are good

I’ve owned more 1-5’s than I can count.
What did you not like about the 5. I looked for a 5 at one time. Had an hard time with appearance. Aside from shortcomings it is not a GoldCrown. Brunswick should have continued the 4 with different woods/finishes.
 
What did you not like about the 5. I looked for a 5 at one time. Had an hard time with appearance. Aside from shortcomings it is not a GoldCrown. Brunswick should have continued the 4 with different woods/finishes.
I bought 5 GC5’s from the factory. They were tourney used for some wpba event in Florida(best I can recall)

It was right after the 08 crash and Bwick panicked and started selling direct to me-I’m not an authorized dealer clearly. Back then I couldn’t talk about it. The guy who authorized me being able to buy from them isn’t there and it’s long in the past. I bought chairs, balls, tables. I was too cautious and my connection was gone after a few shipments/ I should have bought more product. Who knew?

I could have bought about 20 of them, I paid $15,000 for 5 GC5’s. $3000 each. Jay and I were partners on the table biz for a long time. Jay was 50% of the 5’s. I or we were scared as the economy was melting. We should have bought them all. But it was a scary time for sure.

One of them I had Ernesto set up the first time. Glen had to re-level it after 6-8 weeks. Then a couple months after that Ernesto had to re-level it again. This was a on going process for about a year.

The 5’s didn’t stay level and always had some minor issues.


All 5 I bought wouldn’t stay level. I was told the specs were slightly different for the rails(from China) the rest of the table was from Vietnam as I recall except the pocket castings were American made. Don’t shoot the messenger - this is what I was told. I have no other verification of this.

What I do know is I sold them off for 4-5k each and nobody was mad because of the price. The guys I sold them to all had similar troubles like I had. For $5K they were worth the troubles. For $10K not a chance they were worth the money.

And I was honest when I sold them-the early 5’s weren’t great. That was my opinion and experience with them. But for a new GC they were priced right. The problems weren’t huge.

The early 6’s had a few bugs as well.

I took my 5 out and put in a GC4 that I bought from Artie Bordendorfer, he bought it brand new. I still have that box-it’s the best 4 I’ve ever had. Absolutely perfect.

The 5’s I heard were better towards the end of the production of them. That makes sense.

I like the 4’s the best. I had a 3 for years that was pretty good as well, not great.

Best
Fatboy 😃
 
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My favorite GC of all time is the GC4 piano black with chrome from the factory😍😍.

I’ve never owned one🙁
I saw one at a Phila Home Show. Had a silver cloth. I was with my wife… she asked why was I crying. Told her it brought tears to my eyes. Jtompilot loves the black crown. I started to have Blatts build one but bailed as I was not happy with who was going to set it up … and more concerned it would not be a player. As for you not buying more… if we only had a crystal ball
 
The gloss black/chrome look always seemed like a bad idea. Fingerprint and dirt magnets. Not to mention glare/glint from light. I guess it’s ok for limited residential use or for those adept at auto detailing.
 
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I agree that the piano black is a beauty. I had the opportunity to get one but passed and then found a like-new IV that was used in a tournament around 2007 and then stored away.

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