Wow, is that Swiss francs? That would be about $55 and $44 USD, respectively. That's a lot of money. At that rate I would think you'd be interested in learning how to change tips yourself. @dr_dave has a good video on this site on how to do it without special tools.
Credit for the video to Dr. Dave!Thanks for the video
Elkmasters are 20 bucks for a box of 50. What size ferrule? If you have a standard 11,12, 13mm then you don't need an pro tip job. You gotta take the fit as is but it won't affect accuracy.Sadly here in Switzerland cheap doesn't exist. The 2-3 people that change tips also sell them, and I think they all charge 50 including the tip for any of the mainstream brands. One time I brought my own tip and they still charged me 40 for the tip change, so no advantage to buy separately...
Elkmasters are soft. Where did you see them for $20 per 50?Elkmasters are 20 bucks for a box of 50. What size ferrule? If you have a standard 11,12, 13mm then you don't need an pro tip job. You gotta take the fit as is but it won't affect accuracy.
I discovered that you can coat them with super glue to shape 'em - top and/or sides. They firm up a little and are resilient like rubber and never turn solid. Win win for me. If you care to press 'em, you'll have a med.Elkmasters are soft. Where did you see them for $20 per 50?
I'll be the odd duck out. If you haven't tried them, I'd recommend a milk dud. They are fantastic tips. After getting my first layered tip, I swore I'd never go back to single layer, but duds made me a believer. I don't think I'll go for anything other than a dud now.
How did the test go?
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I still think the good old fashioned Triangle is the best medium tip. To identify the medium, look at the top of the tip. It shouldn't be too smooth, or too shaggy. Those in the middle are the mediums.
All the best,
WW
I still think the good old fashioned Triangle is the best medium tip. To identify the medium, look at the top of the tip. It shouldn't be too smooth, or too shaggy. Those in the middle are the mediums.
All the best,
WW
Sorry for the late reply, it's been a crazy week. To me, they are much easier to maintain. They require very little maintenance, but when they do you don't have to worry about glue layers not holding chalk, delamination, etc. There's nothing wrong with layered tips but these just feel perfect, almost like an extension of your body. I've tried a few layered tips in the past, and while good, eventually the ones I tried seem to change hardness and there's not enough meat there between layers to actually give them an occasional good scuffing. With a dud, you can basically dress them how you want. They also seem to hold chalk very well. Sometimes the layered have a tendency to not hold chalk too well if the glue comes into play. Also, with duds, you can use cheap chalk and it sticks great, sometimes layered almost requires expensive chalk to hold.What is it that you like about them vs. the layered? I used to play with a Kamui brown and now play with a G2. I think both are really good.
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You're right about that. Most want to pay at least 40 to 60 bucks for a tip, so they feel good about themselves.No one wants to hear that cheap shit
Thanks for the reply. Have you heard of the Techno-Dud by Outsville? They're only $10 I think and people seem to really like them.Sorry for the late reply, it's been a crazy week. To me, they are much easier to maintain. They require very little maintenance, but when they do you don't have to worry about glue layers not holding chalk, delamination, etc. There's nothing wrong with layered tips but these just feel perfect, almost like an extension of your body. I've tried a few layered tips in the past, and while good, eventually the ones I tried seem to change hardness and there's not enough meat there between layers to actually give them an occasional good scuffing. With a dud, you can basically dress them how you want. They also seem to hold chalk very well. Sometimes the layered have a tendency to not hold chalk too well if the glue comes into play. Also, with duds, you can use cheap chalk and it sticks great, sometimes layered almost requires expensive chalk to hold.
EDIT: I'm not a cheapskate on pool gear, but another obvious bonus is the price. If you make them yourself they are the price of an elkmaster, if you buy them they are $5-10 or less depending on whoever is selling them. I bought a press, and even considering that was $35, I'm still way ahead after tipping my house cues and my playing cues, wife's, nephew's etc. They are basically so cheap and easy to make you can re-tip your friend's cues for like 50 cents and give them a superior playing experience. Also, it's fun to make them, lets you nerd out and let your inner mad scientist play.
Yeah, I've used them, they are good. I started making my own now though. I think the best thing about the techno duds is they are always consistent for whatever hardness you get. I don't think the "non milk scientific formula" that they use is any better or worse than regular whole milk. This isn't a pro or a con for the tips though. but They are dead consistent as I've ordered three tips from them at different times and all were super consistent. There's a fellow on here who makes the regular duds that have really good reviews but I don't remember their name as I never ordered from them. I think they have a thread in the for sale section. Either way I don't think you can go wrong.Thanks for the reply. Have you heard of the Techno-Dud by Outsville? They're only $10 I think and people seem to really like them.
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Mine lasts for a long time, longer if I get lazy about replacing them. I once had a tip the thickness of a dime for 6 months because I didn't want to drive 45 min to have it replaced. This was before I started doing my own tips. Recently I was on a hardness level trial so I was changing about once every month to try different hardness. I'd say on average around a year.Question: How often do you change the tip on you playing cue?
I realize when the tip gets worn down to a certain point, it needs
to be replaced. But how low can you go? At what point do you
decide it’s time to replace the tip? And with a new tip, how much
do you remove trying to shape the tip into a nickel or dime shape?
New tips need to be shaped and after being played, the tip will likely
need reshaping. In general, how much tip do you prefer to see on one
of your cues? I carry six cues in my case and switch cues so the tips on
my cue shafts last a long time and seldom need to change the tips from
becoming worn. My cue tips last a long time, literally many, many years
but due to my bad shoulders, I don’t play a lot of pool any longer but I
still play but just not nearly as much. So how long does your cue tips last?