Best way to clean a shaft?
- Thread starter LancerV
- Start date
lukeinva
Banned
get some 80 grit sandpaper, Run that up and down the shaft about 20-30 times!!. Then Soak it in water with SOAP for about 30 mins. Take it out of the soapy water put it in the dryer (this will close the pores) after that take some steel wool and run it up and down the shaft about 30 times. Place it in the oven at 375 degrees for 25 mins (this makes the pores even smaller). After that take your tip shaper and shape the tip (its going to need it!) After you do all this buy a new shaft and once you get that one dirty repeat all these steps again! If you need a new shaft let me know!!
lukeinva said:
Was that a joke? Only 1 of my 8 shafts came out playable, and that was after I replaced the tip.
LancerV said:
I too have that question. I have two cues, a McDermott and a Joss. For both I have used Troy's suggestion of lighter fluid followed by a wipe down and a leather burnishing. For the McDermott it works great (thanks Troy), its virtually frictionless and stays that way for a fairly long time.
The Joss, however, does not respond the same way and doesn't get as slick as the McDermott and seems to get "sticky" fairly quickly.
Has anyone else found that different manufacturer's shafts respond differently to a given treatment and if so, any suggestions for a Joss?
The Joss may have a different clear coat. If you have some Simple Green®, try it diluted with about 2 parts water. Otherwise, try a bit of household detergent.
Either way, use a clean, soft cloth slightly wet. Follow with a good rubdown with a clean, soft cloth and finish by leather burnishing.
Troy
Either way, use a clean, soft cloth slightly wet. Follow with a good rubdown with a clean, soft cloth and finish by leather burnishing.
Troy
Steve - Detroit said:
Troy said:
.......or sometimes a solvent (acetone etc)might be needed to remove "stuff" from the shaft, or a very light sanding with 600 grit followed by burnishing, or use of a Cue Wiz (a commerical product with leather on one side and a micro fiber sanding surface on the other...excellent product I think), or the Cue Smooth micro-abrasive papers have also worked good for me as they are re-useable.
LancerV said:
I recommend that you send it to a good cuesmith and have it done right. Harsh chemicals and bleaches will be destructive to the cue's shaft. Make sure the cuesmith does not use any filler compounds, fillers will result in more annoying gritty and sticky material again. It also covers up the pores in the wood which you do not want to do. A good burnish is what you need that will close the pores properly. The coloring in the shaft comes from chalk from the table and your hands. Burnishing will rub these into your shaft if not cleaned. Before you burnish make sure it is spotless, no grit should be present. To clean your shaft, use a distilled petroleum product that leaves no residue. Dark coloring in a shaft is OK, as oils from your hands cause this to occur which is important as it helps strengthen the cue from warping. Do not use any compounds that block these oil. We have spent a lot of lab testing to determine the effects of chemicals on wood shafts and the results were amazing.
LancerV said:
Ive used Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and it works wonders.. But I only use it on very dirty shafts. Before that I used QCLEAN, QGLIDE and QSLICK. They are all good products to use.. Lately to minimize cue cleaning, Ive switched to using Grey Masters chalk.... and I have not cleaned my shafts in months...