best way to shoot clear?

S

seven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I am using a hvlp gun with a turbine system.
is it better to finish the clear with the cue horizontal spinning slow on a lathe or similar device? horizontal not spinning? vertical spinning? or vertical not spinning. I was looking a chris hightowers finishing station & his looks like its horizontal spinning. but I'm not sure if thats for epoxy finish or spray gun clear coat. I'm in the process of designing/building a painting booth. any suggestions? exaust/downdraft?
 
Last edited:
seven said:
I am using a hvlp gun with a turbine system.
is it better to finish the clear with the cue horizontal spinning slow on a lathe or similar device? horizontal not spinning? vertical spinning? or vertical not spinning. I was looking a chris hightowers finishing station & his looks like its horizontal spinning. but I'm not sure if thats for epoxy finish or spray gun clear coat. I'm in the process of designing/building a painting booth. any suggestions? exaust/downdraft?
Click to expand...

Horizontal spinning... the vertical position would have gravity acting on you finish and it would eventually slide IMO. I haven't seen one yet set up vertically

Hadj
 
paint booth

seven said:
I am using a hvlp gun with a turbine system.
is it better to finish the clear with the cue horizontal spinning slow on a lathe or similar device? horizontal not spinning? vertical spinning? or vertical not spinning. I was looking a chris hightowers finishing station & his looks like its horizontal spinning. but I'm not sure if thats for epoxy finish or spray gun clear coat. I'm in the process of designing/building a painting booth. any suggestions? exaust/downdraft?
Click to expand...
Seven, I use a horizonal system. If you happen to over spray, [to much finish], you just let it spin and the paint will "EVEN" out while it's spinning. I turn my cues and shafts at about 120 RPM.......This speed works well for me.

I built a box [long box, about 40" long], X 2' X 2', mounted a motor on top with the pulley lining up with the top drive shaft, that is connected with the bottom one.

Cut two slits in the face of the box, 2" high by 34" long, or wide. Then I mounted two drive shafts on the same end, and mounted two spring loaded tail stocks at the other end. For the suction, I used a small squrial cage blower, and let it exhaust into a drum full of water, outside, with a lid on it, so the fumes are null and void when leaving the barrel. The water catches all the bad stuff.

Flip the switch on and spray away.. Leave them spinning till the paint sets up good. Call me if you need more help or have questions. I hope this helps.
blud
830-232-5991
 
Last edited:
vertical

hadjcues said:
Horizontal spinning... the vertical position would have gravity acting on you finish and it would eventually slide IMO. I haven't seen one yet set up vertically

Hadj
Click to expand...
Hadj, most production shops are using vertical systems.However they are using UV, and a fast dry system.
I prefer horzional.
blud
 
blud said:
Seven, I use a horizonal system. If you happen to over spray, [to much finish], you just let it spin and the paint will "EVEN" out while it's spinning. I turn my cues and shafts at about 120 RPM.......This speed works well for me.

I built a box [long box, about 40" long], X 2' X 2', mounted a motor on top with the pulley lining up with the top drive shaft, that is connected with the bottom one.

Cut two slits in the face of the box, 2" high by 34" long, or wide. Then I mounted two drive shafts on the same end, and mounted two spring loaded tail stocks at the other end. For the suction, I used a small squrial cage blower, and let it exhaust into a drum full of water, outside, with a lid on it, so the fumes are null and void when leaving the barrel. The water catches all the bad stuff.

Flip the switch on and spray away.. Leave them spinning till the paint sets up good. Call me if you need more help or have questions. I hope this helps.
blud
830-232-5991
Click to expand...

this helps alot.. I have a pretty good picture of what you are talking about. thanks
 
There was a booth on ebay the other day for spraying pool cues? Did yall see it? It may have already ended. Seems like it went for $100.00
 
seven said:
I am using a hvlp gun with a turbine system.
is it better to finish the clear with the cue horizontal spinning slow on a lathe or similar device? horizontal not spinning? vertical spinning? or vertical not spinning. I was looking a chris hightowers finishing station & his looks like its horizontal spinning. but I'm not sure if thats for epoxy finish or spray gun clear coat. I'm in the process of designing/building a painting booth. any suggestions? exaust/downdraft?
Click to expand...
My station has been used for spraying and for brushing on Epoxy Cue Cote. It does not have the exhaust that is needed to make it a true spray booth. I have sprayed the cues on it and I have sprayed them outside and then brought them in and then let them rotate on it to level out nice. That is how I liked spraying the best. I have not sprayed a cue in years now as I have used the Cue Cote mostly.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
 
cueman said:
My station has been used for spraying and for brushing on Epoxy Cue Cote. It does not have the exhaust that is needed to make it a true spray booth. I have sprayed the cues on it and I have sprayed them outside and then brought them in and then let them rotate on it to level out nice. That is how I liked spraying the best. I have not sprayed a cue in years now as I have used the Cue Cote mostly.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
Click to expand...
CH, you have a good pic of a cue of yours with Cue Cote applied and buffed?
Thanks.
 
cueman said:
My station has been used for spraying and for brushing on Epoxy Cue Cote. It does not have the exhaust that is needed to make it a true spray booth. I have sprayed the cues on it and I have sprayed them outside and then brought them in and then let them rotate on it to level out nice. That is how I liked spraying the best. I have not sprayed a cue in years now as I have used the Cue Cote mostly.
Chris
www.hightowercues.com
www.internationalcuemakers.com
Click to expand...

You lost me on the spray outside then bring them in and spin them to level out. Just how much finish are you spraying at once. Just curious.
 
seven said:
I am using a hvlp gun with a turbine system.
is it better to finish the clear with the cue horizontal spinning slow on a lathe or similar device? horizontal not spinning? vertical spinning? or vertical not spinning. I was looking a chris hightowers finishing station & his looks like its horizontal spinning. but I'm not sure if thats for epoxy finish or spray gun clear coat. I'm in the process of designing/building a painting booth. any suggestions? exaust/downdraft?
Click to expand...

Horizontal. I use a old wood lathe with no motor. Rotate the cue as you spray it. No need to spin it after you spray. If it runs then you put it on too thick and will probably end up with bubbles in the finish and have to sand it off anyway.

With proper sanding and sealing you will only need a couple of thin coats of clear.
 
I have to agree with some here that seem to favor the lighter cote, build up method. Altough I still finish cues by hand, I have done some finish spray work in other fields before, and that method always seem to produce the best results from what I have seen, unless you really had to cover alot of square footage.

I have known a couple of rare people that could work a wet edge to perfection, and it does save time when it works out, but can still turn into a sanding fest should it not work out. My preference would be more lighter cotes, as opposed to less heavier cotes, as It seems safer to me before embarking on It Myself here shortly, and finding out the best way to spray cues the hardway. I have a compressor and hvlp gun for it, but don't even want to waste My time with it. I would like a decent turbine type hvlp. anyone know whose got the best setup going for the price? I need something that will spray urethane well, but won't put me under the poor house to aquire. :D Greg
 
thanks for all the responses... shooting clear is definetly learned by trial & error. just finished shooting clear on a cue. dayum!!! took me like 5 tries to get it right. kept getting either fisheye, drips or whitening. figured out that the best, although a little more time consuming is multiple thin coats.
shoot first very thin tack coat. wait 10 to 15 min. then shoot next, & repeat. a very hard thing to do, because it does not start looking right until about the 3rd coat. Epoxy.. tried that, with very little success I did as they say. put epoxy on with a latex glove. thin coat. spin on lathe. but it wont even out. & I get alot of bubbles. a friend of mine told me that when I mix the epoxy. dont stir. fold it slowly to keep bubbles from forming. tried that. no luck. even if I do get it so that I get no bubbles. it is still a major task to sand it down even. I think I'll stick with spray finish. BTW. I'm using PGP DELTRON. so far the best clear coat I have tried. ( I used to do body work on cars, never shot clear though.. my buddy always did that :) )
also doesnt need reducer :) .
 
Cue Crazy said:
I have to agree with some here that seem to favor the lighter cote, build up method. Altough I still finish cues by hand, I have done some finish spray work in other fields before, and that method always seem to produce the best results from what I have seen, unless you really had to cover alot of square footage.

I have known a couple of rare people that could work a wet edge to perfection, and it does save time when it works out, but can still turn into a sanding fest should it not work out. My preference would be more lighter cotes, as opposed to less heavier cotes, as It seems safer to me before embarking on It Myself here shortly, and finding out the best way to spray cues the hardway. I have a compressor and hvlp gun for it, but don't even want to waste My time with it. I would like a decent turbine type hvlp. anyone know whose got the best setup going for the price? I need something that will spray urethane well, but won't put me under the poor house to aquire. :D Greg
Click to expand...


Putting on too light a coat can cause problems as well. You have to practice with your gun till you can lay on a nice wet coat for a good build up, you can't be afraid of the gun. I do one or two light coats then a few build coats and sand in between till I like what I have.
 
macguy said:
Putting on too light a coat can cause problems as well. You have to practice with your gun till you can lay on a nice wet coat for a good build up, you can't be afraid of the gun. I do one or two light coats then a few build coats and sand in between till I like what I have.
Click to expand...


You are correct, I guess basically what I was refering to ,was puting down tack cotes. If you don't, the finish can slide right off. You can go alittle heavier after that, but I still won't lay it too thick on each cote in most cases. Back when I was doing spray work, We usually would have sprayed a primer cote also, so the grain was sealed off. Like I mentioned, that's just Me, I have known people that could lay It on really thick.

Guess I'll find out A method for this as well when I Get My booth setup, and probably find out I can go alittle heavier on a cue then I think now. Like you mentioned the hardest part, seems to be learning the gun, or sprayer your using. That's really where it's at. They all seem to lay It on differently, and have there own problems to learn to work around. It is one piece of equipment you want to keep cleaned very well. It is very frustrating when trying to meet a deadline on a job, and the thing starts leaking and spitting on you. You don't have time to fix it, and sometimes makes more since to just by another setup when in a pinch. That's why I don't want to get too cheap of a setup, I know you get what you pay for with those, but at the same time can't throw $1500-$2000 for the really good setups that are a breeze to spray with. My buddy had one, and sold it for around 400-500, and I did'nt even know he wanted to sell It. Would have sold it to me cheaper, so I really missed the boat on that one. I'll get one before too long, when another deal comes my way. Maybe I'll play around with this setup I have now, for kicks. Need to find me a water seperator for it first.

With that said, I do understand what your talking about, as I am basically doing the same thing while putting the finish on By hand, start out thin for a base, then building it up with slightly heavier cote, it helps assure that I have enough to sand on without going through the finish also.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top